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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) ARP stud question...

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JGheen

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So I got my studs for my cylinder head swap and was wondering about the torque specs. The paper that came with the studs says 96ft. lbs if you are using the ARP moly assembly lube or 122ft. lbs of you use 30wt oil. That is a huge difference in torque and am wondering what fellow ARP stud users have done with these specs given. They are the 12mm studs and it also mentions using a good quality moly lube as opposed to motor oil but would the torque still be 96ft. lbs with that moly lube? Not sure if ARP's moly lube is specially formulated for their studs and using another type might require more torque than just 96ft. lbs. Let me know what you guys think... .



Thanks, Joe
 
Ok, now I am really in question as to what I will need to torque them to. How would I torque them hot when I have to torque them up before starting the engine anyway?? :confused:



Joe
 
I torqued mine to 135 with moly--but don't go that high--we broke one on Nowel's truck going that high--some say 96 is fine and others will say 125 is fine--I'd go to 100 and then one more pass at 120 or 125 , but don't go beyond 125---then get engine warm and let it cool down for an hour or so and re-torque them--chris
 
I did mine to 110ft/lbs with moly lube. No problems, and since they have held for over a year and have not loosened up, I don't worry about them any more.
 
You do 14mm's to 150... ... makes you think your going to either crack your back/crunch the fender with your belly or break the block. What PITA but it holds.



Jim
 
Jim Fulmer said:
You do 14mm's to 150... ... makes you think your going to either crack your back/crunch the fender with your belly or break the block. What PITA but it holds.



Jim

What about 12mm?? Those are the studs I will be running..... :)



Joe
 
125 with moly lube.



More if you want to chance it.



I've seen 145 before. But I won't recommend aver 125 to my customers. (The likelihood of breaking a stud off increases dramatically at 130.



Later,

Wes
 
DO NOT confuse A1 technology studs that are sold by Haisley machine with ARP studs. If your studs say 96 ftlbs, w/moly then that is the correct torque for those studs. If you have any doubt CALL THE DEALER OR MANUFACTURER of your studs! Torque specs are like opinions..... you know what I mean. online advice is fine, but as you can see above there is no real answer for a question that involves mission critical parts.

Josh www.dieselperformancesolutions.com
 
One thing to note, cranking the stud nuts to 120 ft/lbs will put considerably more clamping force on your head than 120ft/lbs on the stock head bolts, because of the finer threads. So maybe 96 is fine. I have the van Haisleys and went to 120 on mine, but I need to retorque them still. . . didn't have time to do it before my 4000 mile road trip last weekend.
 
Well, I got a few other answers on this subject and was told to torque them to factory specs or 125ft. lbs with the moly lube. Once I do my initial torque I am supposed to fire it up, get it to operating temps, shut it down, let it cool down, re-torque in a line method staring on the drivers side front to back, breaking each one loose about 1/2 turn then re-torqueing to 125. Once I get to that last one on the first line, move to the next line over towards passenger side and go back to front with the same method. I think this a good method, what do you guys think? :)



My Piers head just arrived yesterday, what a perty piece of cast iron, just need a headgasket now. Oo.



Joe
 
Vaughn MacKenzie said:
One thing to note, cranking the stud nuts to 120 ft/lbs will put considerably more clamping force on your head than 120ft/lbs on the stock head bolts, because of the finer threads. So maybe 96 is fine.

Since I am running o-rings in my new head, this is why I was told to go to 125 with the moly lube, due to the increased clamping force on the gasket fire ring as well as the o-ring.



Joe
 
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