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ARP Studs Installed!

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Yesterday along with my injectors I finally did the stud installation on ole' Blackout.



The procedure was pretty straight forward. I followed the tech manuals recommendation as far as the sequence of torque goes.

I also went up in stages with torque on the injectors in 10lb increments until I reach 60lbs per stud.



I then went up to 75 ft lbs and then 86ft lbs then finally 96ft lbs. I used the ARP moly lube which is pretty slick.



I overchecked them at 96ft lbs several times and they were all holding the torque well.



The back rear drivers side bolt touches the "rocker box" and that had to be clearanced with a grinder to fit.



They sure do feel better than spongy OEM bolts!!



Next week I will probably do a retorque again
 
Install takes several hours.

I did injectors at the same time so it took extra long and I am slow.



My instructions say 96ft lbs with ARP lube and 122ft lbs with 30wt oil.

Theres no way I am putting 125ft lbs on these.
 
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If these are the same studs as used on a 2nd generation (which I think they are) I was told to use 122 ftlbs with ARP molylube, even thought the ARP instructions listed smaller values. I called two different performance diesel shops to verify and both confirmed that they torque to 122 with ARP moly lube!
 
I used 122 and then retorqued after two days of easy driving.



Is it any different putting studs in the HPCR motors (valve train and such)? I'm thinking of putting studs in my new 04 HPCR before I even install it in the excursion.



Jesse
 
Jesse,

You just have to clearance/grind for the rear drivers side head stud it hits the "rocker box".



Other than that its pretty easy.
 
Well retorque will have to wait until later this week.

Our weather out here is crap right now.



I am babying the truck right now anyways just daily driving.
 
Jwilliams3- Just to clarify, you converted to studs only right? Ie. . not fire-ringing on the head or other options? Also, what are the thoughts as far as safe boost levels with studs on a stock headgasket? thanks
 
If you are asking what are my thoughts?



Well, I am never O ringing a head again.

If get to the point of needing an O ring job I am getting fire rings with 14mm studs.



Studs with our OEM MLS gasket for a 3rd gen will hold 70psi no problem.



With your 2001 truck if your not going to run crazy boost or cylinder pressure then a set of studs should do you just fine.
 
That's what your pal Don M has been saying for a while: stock gaskets and studs can do pretty well. ;)

Are the ARP studs still in the plastic range of the deformation at 125lb-ft? If so, they probably don't have much room to spare, do they??

I'd like to see a stress/strain curve for the studs... .

jh
 
jwilliams3 said:
If you are asking what are my thoughts?



Well, I am never O ringing a head again.

If get to the point of needing an O ring job I am getting fire rings with 14mm studs.



Studs with our OEM MLS gasket for a 3rd gen will hold 70psi no problem.



With your 2001 truck if your not going to run crazy boost or cylinder pressure then a set of studs should do you just fine.



That's the info I was looking for. Actually I just bought a 06 Megacab and was wondering if I start running boost numbers over 48lbs if I will blow the gasket like I did in the 2nd Gen. I had that one fireringed and likewise don't want to go through that again. Glad to hear studs will keep you safe up to 70. On my 2nd Gen I the most boost I ever saw was under 60 with a single charger (B1). What's the concensus on the stock turbo? can it hold up to say 50 psi?
 
jwilliams3 said:
Well retorque will have to wait until later this week.

Our weather out here is crap right now.



I am babying the truck right now anyways just daily driving.





What are the stock torque numbers to begin with?
 
jwilliams3 said:
105nm+90*angle



Your too fast buddy... wait a minute... Have you done this before? :D



thanks for knowledge. It's funny this go around how my approach is a little different as far as what mods first. Live and learn I spose.
 
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