ARP Studs Installed!

[jwilliams3]

It leaked. But who knows maybe it wasnt the o rings.

 

[BradyWilliams]

I have talked with many truck owners and diesel shops on this issue. Most will go 120-130ft/lbs with moly. We tried the recomended torque of 95ft/lbs and blew the head gasket on the dyno. So don't go there. The method that does work well with a stock 3rd gen. head gasket is 130ft/lbs with moly, retorque hot. Run truck at track or road hard. Retorque to 130ft/lbs hot, recheck torque after some more running. Usually the ARP studs stablize and finaly take a set after torquing three times. The reason for more torque is that the combution pressure increases in a turned up engine. The 95ft/lbs will work in a more modest turned up engine but I don't think I could call your truck modest. Thanks, Brady

 

[jwilliams3]

Brady,

This thread is old. I promptly changed the torque to 122ft lbs after consulting with several different people.

 

[Luken]

I get to put studs on mine now. I blew it last night at the track

 

[WUnderwood]

Luken-

you blew what exactly?

 

[Luken]

The headgasket.

 

[Diesel Nut]

Well, pay to play, right!



I need studs . . . .

 

[CumminsPower98]

Blew my first gasket at 38 psi and 247k miles while towing in sub zero weather. Replaced gasket and installed ARP studs. I torqued to 96 with moly lube ran engine up to temp let cool and re-torqued to 110. I ran this for a while and blew it again at less than 35 psi. Obviously I didn't do enough re-torques plus my max value was on the low side. Replaced the gasket again and did 3 re-torques with thousands of miles between each one. I just set the waist gate low to start with and kept bringing the boost up as I got things tighter. So far it's holding but I have the boost dumping at 30 psi. Much more than that is pointless anyway on a stock HX35. I was a little afraid to go to 125 with the moly but I read about so many on here doing it I went ahead.