Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) ARP studs

[Cowboy]

hey guys-- just wanted to see if anyone had done what I am going to attempt, installing ARP head studs one at a time without pulling my head. the reason for the shortcut,I am going conservative on the boost, ( 40-45 lbs) just want to eliminate the possibility of a gasket failure, dont see a need for fire ring or O ringing head, just want it to live "comfortably" for a LONG time --- THANKS GUYS

 

[jgillott]

Yes, I've done that process a number of times including on my former 2001. Very easy process when it comes down to it. When I do them, I start in the middle of the head and work from the inside out in an alternating pattern. When finished, I'll assemble it, run it till the truck is warm (20 min or so) and then take it back apart and torque the studs again. It's probably not necessary, but on my personal truck, I then went back in about a week later and put the torque wrench on them again. It probably isn't necessary, but I just feel more comfortable checking them again after a few heat cycles. If I remember correctly, I installed the ARP studs in that '01 I had in 2003 or 2004 and it was running ~45 psi with no gasket issues. From what I understand, the gentleman that has that truck now hasn't had to do a gasket to date.

If you haven't done a set this way before, allow yourself a full day from start to finish so you don't feel the need to rush.

 

[AH64ID]

I did it that way on my 24V CR head. It works just fine.

Pull out an OEM bolt, put in a stud. Tq the stud to 110#. Do this in the order in the shop manual. When they are all replaced at at 110# then torque to ~117 ft/lbs, then wait 15-20 minutes, and do it again at 125#. Then either drive it until warm and re-torque, or plug the block heater in overnight and re-torque.

Be sure to use the torque pattern in the service manual.

 

[JJPage]

I did it that way on my 24V CR head. It works just fine.

Pull out an OEM bolt, put in a stud. Tq the stud to 110#. Do this in the order in the shop manual. When they are all replaced at at 110# then torque to ~117 ft/lbs, then wait 15-20 minutes, and do it again at 125#. Then either drive it until warm and re-torque, or plug the block heater in overnight and re-torque.

Be sure to use the torque pattern in the service manual.

I really should do this. I was told it wasn't necessary as long as my egt's remain below 1250*, which I never reach, however it would be "peace of mind".

 

[AH64ID]

Are you talking stud install or warm re-torque?

 

[JJPage]

Are you talking stud install or warm re-torque?

Stud install.

 

[AH64ID]

Stud install.

It's function of boost/cylinder pressure and not EGT's. 50 psi of boost and 900° puts a lot more stress on the HG than 30 psi and 1500°.

You have twins and injectors, you should have studs. It does go to show the strength of the OEM bolts thou.

 

[JJPage]

I agree, I should have studs. When I ordered the R700's kit, I was specifically told in an email from Piers Harry@BD, that if I adjusted my fuel to keep egt's below 1250*, I would not need to worry about the head lifting no matter the boost pressure... I believe Joe Donnelly(sp) is also running stock head bolts with the R700 kit under the same advice, but I could be mistaken.

Before the compounds, I was hitting 60+ lbs of boost on a daily basis with the Silver 62, just not near the volume of air the compounds deliver. With my small injectors(F1. 5's) Smarty TNTR SW6, my max boost is 60#, very hard pull I may touch 1200*, and I am at a very solid 650hp daily driver. I do believe ARP studs would be a benefit, good insurance.

 

[AH64ID]

I'm impressed how long your HG has lasted, I have studs and hit 31-32 psi on a good day Thou the cam and turbo did drop boost and increase airflow.