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ATS manifold questions

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I didnt want the standard finsih to flake off so i choose the 2000 series, I didnt want to do it twice is what am saying... I have to admit the Sterling silver is the more glamous of the two. One the sockets. . mine came back with a special tape on the two outer sockets to prevent the coating on those sufaces. The inters were coating and i buffed them out with emery paper on an end of a drill. They were still tight, so i put the 2 outers in the freezer for 2-3 hours and presto... . nice fit... JB
 
I called Jet-Hot today to arrange for coating my manifold. They suggested that the 2000 series was better at preventing oxidation so that is what I am going with. They do the 2000 coating at the Pennsylvania and Mississippi locations only. Memory is failing me but I believe they said lead time is running about eight days.
 
Anyone hear of High Performance Coatings? They are in Ca. , and Ok. City, Ok.
I had the headers for my V-10 coated by them. It kept the temps. down in the eng. compartment. Don't know what it would do for the ATS.
Larry
 
Sasquatch, can you enlighten those of us less mechanically inclined as to why your egt cool down process was shortened by adjusting the valves? How far out of spec were your valves? Thanks
 
BZIN/UL,

When I had the valves done, the mechanic told me that the exhaust valves were very loose (an average of . 003") and the intake valves were consistently tight by about the same margin. I couldn't tell you why that's the case, and can only conclude that the valves were misadjusteded when we swapped out the valve springs the day the BD exhaust brake was installed.

All I know, for sure, is that I noticed a marked reduction in power after the BD brake was installed, and a buildup of heat (higher EGTs, during hard pulls) and longer cool-down times. I concluded that (despite what Scott Dalgleish's, TDR review claimed) the BD brake was contributing to exhaust back-pressure, and thus creating the related performance/heat issues.

I'm not an automotive engineer, or professional mechanic, so I'm not going to embarrass myself with lame forays into the realm of internal combustion. I just know that we adjusted the valves and the power was back, big time, and the engine ran MUCH COOLER! (and cooled down, therefore, MUCH FASTER)

Maybe somebody else can put a finer point on your question, and offer a more comprehensive explanation. I'm sorry I'm not up to the task!

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Thanks, all, for the information and links to get the discount on this manifold.

For those of us in the Atlanta area, there is a local shop that does really wonderful work with powder/heat paint and ceramic coatings on anything and everything you can think of. The name of the business is "Miller Power Coating," and they have done some work for me in the past. They also handle all the show trucks, Harley-Davidson, and Hot-rod work in the Atlanta area. I've been through their plant and seen the sand blasting, ceramic bead tanks, ovens and other aspects of the operation. They use the same coatings and procedures used by Jet Hot, and guarantee their work.

I talked to Bill Miller (owner) and he said that they'd ceramic coat the manifold for $125 and have it ready for pick up inside a week at their facility.

They use the same silver product and Billy (Bill's son) told me that the material is guaranteed to internal, exhaust gas temps of 1600 degrees, and external manifold temps of 1350 degrees. He said, "If you reach that temperature, you've toasted your engine, anyway!" He also has a 2000 degree silver coating but said that it's a ***** to spray (didn't elaborate) and is more expensive. He has the blue/black, which he said has a "flat" appearance, and doesn't look as nice, or go as well, with an engine compartment full of chrome. His race customers HotRod, "Road Atlanta" types who run their trucks (fuel-flooded and hot) all the time, experience a dulling of the ceramic coating (from bright "chrome-look" to a dull silver appearance) over a period of several years. But, he added, the coating remains intact and looking VERY GOOD.

The number for Miller's is: 770-931-1505. I don't think they want to mess with out-of-state work, but that's just a guess. They stay pretty busy all the time.
 
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