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Archived ats trans help
- Thread starter OaborbaG
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yeah, well i live in central california, so no idea how far i'd have to drive, i have a friend that has a truck just like mine, but with a suncoast transmission, and he takes his to a local shop and he says they do decent work, if it does it more tonight, i'm gonna call them in the morning and see if they can take a look at it, if the codes check out okay, i'd rather it keep doing it than me having to pay as much as a pump is ahh lol too much for me right now
well tested the codes, and no codes at all, evene while its doing what its doing, when sitting in drive with the e brake on i noticed the trans got close to 200 degrees, somewhere i never even saw with the stocker, dunno if thst normal, but it hit about 190, and thats with the probe in the pan not in the line
Is there a Cummins Cal Pacific near you? They do ATS conversions--at least they do in So Cal.
200 degrees in definitely not normal. Mine seldom gets above 150 degrees.
As far as paying more to get the problem fixed right, if the problem is ATS's they will cover the cost if you do it at one of their affiliates--hence the advice to call and ask them where the nearest one is. If the problem is NOT ATS's you will be better off because you won't be flailing around anymore.
200 degrees in definitely not normal. Mine seldom gets above 150 degrees.
As far as paying more to get the problem fixed right, if the problem is ATS's they will cover the cost if you do it at one of their affiliates--hence the advice to call and ask them where the nearest one is. If the problem is NOT ATS's you will be better off because you won't be flailing around anymore.
umm not that i know of, the only diesel place i know of around here is erb brothers diesel, they made a tractor with 4 turbos doing 200 psi, so they know theier stuff, but i do'nt think they are with ats but i'll call them tomorrow morning, and just take it wherever they say i guess, i just need to get it fixed
okay now i'm more frusterated than before, heres my rant... .
Decided to change the trans fluid, drained the pan took off the pan let it drain for about an hour, put pan back on, drained converter, put everything back together, poured fluid in, 8 quarts to be exhaust waited turned truck on, put in neutral looked fine, hasn't gone down yet or anything decide to try and put the truck in gear, and nothing, rev it up a little and nothing, so say okay i'll wait turn the truck off go inside and go back out in a while, turn on check fluid same, so i leave the truck on for 5 minutes, while i wait and then it takes the fluid so i fill it up about 17 quarts total, and then go to put it in gear, nothing still, rev it up nothing, sit there for a bit then it goes into gear, i'm like umm ok, so i go for a test drive
test drive, back it up put it in drive, takes a second to switch and i start to go, get to stop sign turn and start to accelerate, going good shifts to 2nd delayed a little and shutters a little, but nothing major shift to 3rd fine, another stop sign, stop and it doesn its thing that it did before with the rpms dropping but no big deal accelerate more and does the same thing in 2nd again, okay i give it some gas it downshifts to 1st rpm's climb to redline and just stay there, don't go down but speed goes up a little still at redline so i let off and then it shifts, give it some more gas and its in 2nd and goes fine to 3rd and 4th and lockup, only lockup isn't nearly as noticeable as it was before, try it again and it does the same thing with going to redline, and not wanting to shift or anything, basically the converter or valve body does not seem to cooperate anymore and isn't as firm as it was just a few days ago and maybe a 100 miles later, i have maybe 140 miles on the whole trans and tc and its been giving me crap except for the first night which it worked perfectly, what the heck happened, now i have a smell and smoke is coming from underneath the front of the truck and it smells like burnt something, no leaks no nothing, no idea whats wrong either, i'm gonna call ats in the morning see what they say about who to take it to, and hopefully get it settled no idea how long it will take, but as long as it works right when its done, and as long as they cover whatevers wrong, i'll be happy,
end of rant, and now i can't sleep
Decided to change the trans fluid, drained the pan took off the pan let it drain for about an hour, put pan back on, drained converter, put everything back together, poured fluid in, 8 quarts to be exhaust waited turned truck on, put in neutral looked fine, hasn't gone down yet or anything decide to try and put the truck in gear, and nothing, rev it up a little and nothing, so say okay i'll wait turn the truck off go inside and go back out in a while, turn on check fluid same, so i leave the truck on for 5 minutes, while i wait and then it takes the fluid so i fill it up about 17 quarts total, and then go to put it in gear, nothing still, rev it up nothing, sit there for a bit then it goes into gear, i'm like umm ok, so i go for a test drive
test drive, back it up put it in drive, takes a second to switch and i start to go, get to stop sign turn and start to accelerate, going good shifts to 2nd delayed a little and shutters a little, but nothing major shift to 3rd fine, another stop sign, stop and it doesn its thing that it did before with the rpms dropping but no big deal accelerate more and does the same thing in 2nd again, okay i give it some gas it downshifts to 1st rpm's climb to redline and just stay there, don't go down but speed goes up a little still at redline so i let off and then it shifts, give it some more gas and its in 2nd and goes fine to 3rd and 4th and lockup, only lockup isn't nearly as noticeable as it was before, try it again and it does the same thing with going to redline, and not wanting to shift or anything, basically the converter or valve body does not seem to cooperate anymore and isn't as firm as it was just a few days ago and maybe a 100 miles later, i have maybe 140 miles on the whole trans and tc and its been giving me crap except for the first night which it worked perfectly, what the heck happened, now i have a smell and smoke is coming from underneath the front of the truck and it smells like burnt something, no leaks no nothing, no idea whats wrong either, i'm gonna call ats in the morning see what they say about who to take it to, and hopefully get it settled no idea how long it will take, but as long as it works right when its done, and as long as they cover whatevers wrong, i'll be happy,
end of rant, and now i can't sleep
lol i'd hope not, well took it to a shop this morning, they called me about 3 o' clock and well, metal shavings all over the pan, they say something is falling apart inside, and they didn't need to look any further to see that something is wrong so, i tried to call ats today, but couldn't get ahold of clint or mike to ask him, i'll try tomorrow morning, but, things don't look good for my ats trans, esp after i just spent so much money, beacuse i wanted "one that couldn't break" where as i could havej ust bought a stocker, and seems like it would have lasted longer, anyone had experience with ats warranty's? how they work how long do they take etc?, i guess this is a good time to bring my eclipse out of hibernation where its been since i bought the truck in november LOL anyways, i'm not as bummed as i should be, maybe it is because the truck isn't here right now, but, o well email me if you have any experience with warranty's or what not
-- email address removed --
thanks again
Aaron
-- email address removed --
thanks again
Aaron
Last edited by a moderator:
Aaron:
Both my Dad (John_P) and I have ATS Stage IV TripleLok
Transmissions in our Dodge CTD Trucks. The ATS Transmission
in my Dad's 96' 12 valve has over 70,000 hard miles on it
with no problems at all!! Same thing with the 01' and the
02'! Clint, Ranee, Mike and the entire staff at ATS have
ALWAYS taken care of us and I am sure they will do the
same for you!
TDR Member "rrausch" is giving you some very good advice
on how to take care of this problem! Clint and his staff
are busy, but not too busy to take care of their customers.
You may want to try asking for Sean, as he also works
in the shop building the converters. Jeff works upstairs
assembling the ATS transmissions so you can speak with
him too or Ranee (Elder) Cannon, Clint's wife. One of these
people can help you Aaron. Their toll free number is:
1-800-949-6002.
-------------
banshee
Both my Dad (John_P) and I have ATS Stage IV TripleLok
Transmissions in our Dodge CTD Trucks. The ATS Transmission
in my Dad's 96' 12 valve has over 70,000 hard miles on it
with no problems at all!! Same thing with the 01' and the
02'! Clint, Ranee, Mike and the entire staff at ATS have
ALWAYS taken care of us and I am sure they will do the
same for you!
TDR Member "rrausch" is giving you some very good advice
on how to take care of this problem! Clint and his staff
are busy, but not too busy to take care of their customers.
You may want to try asking for Sean, as he also works
in the shop building the converters. Jeff works upstairs
assembling the ATS transmissions so you can speak with
him too or Ranee (Elder) Cannon, Clint's wife. One of these
people can help you Aaron. Their toll free number is:
1-800-949-6002.
-------------
banshee
Sounds like a more simplre problem to me.
You are PROBABLY too low on fluid.
Auto trannies can be REAL scary when you don't really know what's going on inside of 'em.
I kept seeing you say you "let the truck sit". It's good to take a break, but,,
Letting the truck sit, isn't doing to much.
What you need to do is,, Put it in "N" rev it up to 1,200 for 4-5 seconds, then let it idle,, put it in Reverse, then Neutral again, then Drive then 2nd, then 1st, then 2nd then Drive, then Neutral, Reverse, then Neutral again. Set your parking brake (leave the truck in neutral),, and check the fluid. It should be completely full, and have NO bubbles.
In Park,, You should read several quarts high, especially if you've removed your Anti-Drain Back Valve.
Move the truck a little,, about 15' reverse, and 15' feet forwards, then put it in Neutral, set the parking brake, and check it again.
It's normal for it to read low if it's a brand new transmission, or you just did a repair, add the nessacary fluid.
There are ALOT of cavities that can eat up the fluid, and a new transmission will take 15-20 minutes to get all the air worked out.
I think thet ATS transmission,, when completely empty will take about 18qts, or a little more. If you put that much and it "appears" high,, your dipstick might be reaching too far into your pan, and giving you a false reading.
If your transmission is low on fluid,, it's going to be going in and out of gear. (Can you pretend it's a manual, and when it's low on fluid,, it's like having the clutch 1/2 way in)
When stopped in gear, it feels like a manual transmission, and somebody is letting out on teh clutch, then pressing it down again, and releases it, back out, releases, back out, and on, and on, untill your transmission fluid has too much bubbles in it, or overheats.
Your pump in the transmission will start sucking air, and will force the air into the transmission fluid. This will heat the fuild up (also there is less fluid to actually heat up), and greatly decrease the holding pressure for thje clutches.
If you drive much with low fluid, the end result will be exactly what you describe,,, burnt fluid, and metal shavings.
My ATS triple Lock if, left "locked" with my mystery switch, will idle locked for about 1-2 seconds before it kills the motor. If I lock it up stopped, it will just shut the truck off just like a manual transmission clutch dump.
Hope you get it fixed.
Merrick
You are PROBABLY too low on fluid.
Auto trannies can be REAL scary when you don't really know what's going on inside of 'em.
I kept seeing you say you "let the truck sit". It's good to take a break, but,,
Letting the truck sit, isn't doing to much.
What you need to do is,, Put it in "N" rev it up to 1,200 for 4-5 seconds, then let it idle,, put it in Reverse, then Neutral again, then Drive then 2nd, then 1st, then 2nd then Drive, then Neutral, Reverse, then Neutral again. Set your parking brake (leave the truck in neutral),, and check the fluid. It should be completely full, and have NO bubbles.
In Park,, You should read several quarts high, especially if you've removed your Anti-Drain Back Valve.
Move the truck a little,, about 15' reverse, and 15' feet forwards, then put it in Neutral, set the parking brake, and check it again.
It's normal for it to read low if it's a brand new transmission, or you just did a repair, add the nessacary fluid.
There are ALOT of cavities that can eat up the fluid, and a new transmission will take 15-20 minutes to get all the air worked out.
I think thet ATS transmission,, when completely empty will take about 18qts, or a little more. If you put that much and it "appears" high,, your dipstick might be reaching too far into your pan, and giving you a false reading.
If your transmission is low on fluid,, it's going to be going in and out of gear. (Can you pretend it's a manual, and when it's low on fluid,, it's like having the clutch 1/2 way in)
When stopped in gear, it feels like a manual transmission, and somebody is letting out on teh clutch, then pressing it down again, and releases it, back out, releases, back out, and on, and on, untill your transmission fluid has too much bubbles in it, or overheats.
Your pump in the transmission will start sucking air, and will force the air into the transmission fluid. This will heat the fuild up (also there is less fluid to actually heat up), and greatly decrease the holding pressure for thje clutches.
If you drive much with low fluid, the end result will be exactly what you describe,,, burnt fluid, and metal shavings.
My ATS triple Lock if, left "locked" with my mystery switch, will idle locked for about 1-2 seconds before it kills the motor. If I lock it up stopped, it will just shut the truck off just like a manual transmission clutch dump.
Hope you get it fixed.
Merrick
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i do'nt think its fluid alone, it slips really bad in 1st and 2nd and the 2nd gear shift is really relaly sloppy i'm taking to a shop that ats recommended me well clint himself told me about, that installs there trannies, so hopefully, it will get worked out, i have a feeling they are going to have to tear it apart to find whats wrong, i htink the bands are gone, but i'm no expert at all lol but i hope it gets fixed soon, cause i need to drive it and not worry about it
What's the verdict?
transmission is being replaced, line pressures weren't nearly high enough, so they shipped a new one out on tuesday, said it'd take about 4 days to get, so i'm looking at the middle of next week before i get my truck back, i'm having concerns as to if they are going to replace the tc too and if they'll remember to put the billet shafts in it, i'm sure they willl but just one of those things, anyways i miss my truck lol
Aaron,I had problems with my ATS installation also{I did the rebuild and installation myself,which I would not recommend unless you have much experience with transmission's, and the proper hoist}. The pin connector was wire wrong fry three units,I email pictures of the connector than they sent the correct one. It works great now and was worth the effort,And I am sure ATS will take care of it and your results will be the same.
on the one they sent me the neutral safety switch was wrong, so i took my old one out and put it in the new one, couldn't wait for them to send me the right one, but i do'nt think that had anything to do with whats wrong with it, but i'm hoping that i get it back on tuesday or wednesday, and that all the problems i had after the install are gone away, o yeah and the shop said i had a 216 code (fuel injection pump) which is kinda weird because when i did the scan here i got nothing, but they are gonna look into it, and see if they can figure if something is wrong, or its just a weird code that got thrown somehow,
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
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Renew
Subscribe
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Back Issues
Subscription Status
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