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Off Roading Attach points for recovery strap

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What is everyone using as an attach point for recovering? I have a receiver shackle but not sure that I trust a receiver pin to withstand much load. The front factory tow hooks look pretty stout but require you to snatch in reverse. The best option in the rear would be to find a shackle to fit the bumper ball mounting hole but I haven't been able to find a shackle that can fit it.
 
I've looked for a d-shackle to fit the rear bumper hitch ball hole, but anything w/ a wide enough opening has a pin that is too large to fit the hole. We use a Warn hitch receiver d-shackle & it works nicely. I use a hardened after-market hitch pin in it.
 
I too use the warn hit receiver shackle with a hardened hitch pin. I used to use that in the front as well (in a front receiver) until I got the Buckstop bumper and the hooks that go with that. I've pulled a ton of people out with that receiver shackle with no problems.
 
For the bumper hole... a "bolt shackle" is what's needed. They dont have the flared section of the rigging shackle. I haven't found one yet and that's what I prefer to use as the hole in the bumper is the strongest point and eliminates the possibility of a sheared receiver pin.



Good to hear that the receiver shackle does work though.
 
I assume your talking about a stock bumper - have you seen the frame for the stock bumper? I did when I replaced mine with the buckstop rear bumper. All I can say is that I'll trust a hitch pin over it any day.
 
Steve St. Laurent said:
I assume your talking about a stock bumper - have you seen the frame for the stock bumper? I did when I replaced mine with the buckstop rear bumper. All I can say is that I'll trust a hitch pin over it any day.

Keep in mind that the bumper on my truck was likely different than your factory unit was. The rear bumper on my 05, incorporates in the bumper frame, a class IV receiver... ... ... In other words, the receiver and bumper frame are one unit... the chrome rear face is jut bolted to it for looks I guess. By looking at mine, the hole in the bumper looks stronger and appears will put less leverage on the unit. I'll post a pic when I get around to it.
 
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With regards to pulling in reverse, most manual transmissions have a steeper reverse gear than a 1st gear. This would provide more torque. Not sure if autos are the same. Of course, there's the vision thing...
 
BStegall said:
With regards to pulling in reverse, most manual transmissions have a steeper reverse gear than a 1st gear. This would provide more torque. Not sure if autos are the same. Of course, there's the vision thing...

Yea, true with autos as well... not that it matters though... when you have 410's,
4 wheel low barely gets you 5 mph at redline.
 
I work in a machine shop and just made a pair of clevis deals for my truck... I made them out of 2x2 solid steel bar, and I enlarged the hole in my receiver to accept a 3/4" hardened pin. I've got a front receiver coming UPS, as well.



"Overbuilt" is the keyword in the shop this week... the guys were asking me if I'm towing trains with it!



I'll post pics soon...
 
Pulling in reverse is not the best of idea's. It puts a ton of stress on the front (axle) u-joints. Yes, they are dana 60's and pretty damn strong... . but a steering 60 is nowhere near as strong as a non-steering (rear) 60. They have broke in the past, and will continue to do so when abused enough.



The reciever pin is fine. In fact, most of the people I hang out with off road just use the pin through the closed loop on a tow strap (push the loop end of the strap into the reciever, put the pin through the loop). I have never seen or even heard of one fail. On the other hand, I have seen towstraps that have hooks on the ends fail... avoid these straps, they are dangerous (in fact, most organized off road groups will not allow these to be used on any run they organize or sponser).
 
I belong to a 4x4 club & yes... anything w/ a metal end is not allowed nor is putting a strap loop over a hitch ball. Linking 2 straps together w/ a d-shackle is not allowed either.



The only trouble w/ the strap-in-the-receiver-hooked-with-a-receiver-pin trick is that if you pull at an angle at all, the edge of the receiver can cut the loop of the strap. We encourage the use of tow hooks or the use of d-shackles w/ recovery straps. No tow chains or tow straps.



We even like to see folks use synthetic winch rope instead of metal cable when possible.
 
CyberRanger said:
We encourage the use of tow hooks or the use of d-shackles w/ recovery straps. No tow chains or tow straps.

I'm glad someone brought this up. There seems to be some confusion between recovery straps, tow straps, and chains... there is a huge difference.

A disabled vehicle CAN be safely moved/towed with a chain or dedicated tow strap/rope provided that the vehicle is not stuck and the item is rated for the load you're pulling. I personally prefer to tow with a chain as there is virtually no "bungee" effect. A grade 8, 3/8 chain with the proper style hooks will not break if used correctly.

A stuck vehicle is another matter completely and requires a recovery strap with all of the previously mentioned precautions.
 
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