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Attempted dealer lube job rip off?

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You can also buy a pkg of oil change either synthetic or standard for a 4 for the price of 3. It comes to about the cost of the oil and filter with no labor
 
I don't know. I would have remembered hearing about it when I bought my truck if they would have said something there. Maybe they didn't say a thing because I was buying from out of state. I never got any emails about free stuff, just reminders that it's time for service either. When my local service rep directly told me it was free for 4 services for 2 years after they had my truck with the other dealer badges all over it and ran my numbers, I didn't say anything else even though I was quite surprised. Didn't want to look a gift horse in the mouth I guess.

The free oil change "warranty" is for 6 oil changes or 40,000 miles I believe. I'm on my 3rd oil change with the Dealer stating he uses Pennzoil (yuck). But I'll use the free oil changes and then go back to DIY with Delo.

The oil change "warranty" is offered to affinity groups such as The National Association of Realtors, and other groups as an additional rebate. It's in the dealers rebate data base when you apply all the various rebates upon purchase of your new truck. You have to ask for it, they don't offer it up front. You have to tell the sales dude or finance dude "I'm special, what other rebates do you offer on top of the $3000 truck month rebate? " Then you have to prove membership in the applicable affinity group (membership card, etc. ) and then they will apply the free oil change warranty. But, the thing is, as RAM owners, we are ALL special (as opposed to Ford owners), so they should be upfront and offer a few free oil changes to each new truck owner. After all, they price it into the new truck price anyway and it helps introduce the new truck owner to the service department...WHERE THEY CAN CHARGE TO LUBE TIE ROD ENDS WITH NO ZERK FITTINGS !

Oh, by the way...I found the little lube spot on the U joint, thanks to the pictures posted by others in this topic. thanks guys !!! Mine was NOT NEARLY as visible as the photos depict. But it's done....and I don't have to worry about it until next time.

Thanks again all,

Shane in Taxifornia.
 
The dealership I deal with provides free oil changes for the life of the vehicle. They did so on another truck I had. You can either let them do everything or they will give you the oil and filters. No fuel filters or air filters.
 
Pictures taken from a brand new truck do..........
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So now at my first oil change. I found the decal and the awesome pics and video others have posted to help find and lube the front drive shaft. The grease cup in this picture is what I expected to see. Mine looks as though the hole (no spring/bearing is on the edge of the bottom of the grease cup. Of course as you can imagine, when i stick my lumax grease needle adapter it seats perfectly fine in the cup but when I pump grease it totally misses the hole. Am I missing something here? take a look at the pic below.
IMG_1135.jpg


IMG_1135.jpg
 
Must be the angle of the needle. With a needle fitting, you have to be almost perfectly centered in the fitting....with some moderate pressure on the needle as well. It takes me several tries before I get it aligned correctly.
 
Needle or needle point. I made this one years ago and it works fine. SNOKING

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I just gave up and removed my driveline! I rarely use 4wd so if I do the same every 25-30K it will be fine. I'm betting a lot of people "THINK" they are getting grease into the joint but in reality they are just coating the outside.

I did have to grind down my tip to get it to work even with the driveline removed.

IMG_5075.jpg


IMG_5075.jpg
 
The real question is why do I have to lubricate it so often as it doesn't turn unless I'm in 4WD on the 2013 and later trucks. I've been in 4WD maybe 10 miles in the entire trucks life!!!!

I don't think I ever lubricated it on my 2003, it turned all the time, and it still had the original driveline when I sold it at 86K.
 
The real question is why do I have to lubricate it so often as it doesn't turn unless I'm in 4WD on the 2013 and later trucks. I've been in 4WD maybe 10 miles in the entire trucks life!!!!

I don't think I ever lubricated it on my 2003, it turned all the time, and it still had the original driveline when I sold it at 86K.

The driveline often can spin even with an axle disconnect because of parasitic drag which could come from either the front diff or possibly the transfer case. However, my guess is that the engineers decided the seal is not perfect enough to keep out all contaminants.

The thing is, we will probably never get THE answer unless one of the engineers pipes up, so I personally conclude they must have a reason, and I (with my usage) only have to do it twice a year so it's not worth questioning it.
 
I completed the first lube using the following;

Tip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR6XE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lube: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQ4DK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While i had trouble getting the needle at the correct angle, it was obvious that when I had it correctly positioned there was NO excess grease flowing on the needle side when pumping the gun.

I recently purchased this locking tip for the grease gun and have used it twice. It is an amazing upgrade to the lincoln gun. One side benefit for this job is that the "trigger" can be used to get leverage on the tip to ensure it is at the correct angle for the grease port on the ujoint.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H7LPKKU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$30 yea, i know, but I have tried all sorts of tips and have had hit or miss luck with grease not making it into the zerk and spewing outside the zerk. This locking tip is a positive connection-- no wasted grease.
 
I completed the first lube using the following;

Tip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR6XE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lube: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQ4DK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While i had trouble getting the needle at the correct angle, it was obvious that when I had it correctly positioned there was NO excess grease flowing on the needle side when pumping the gun.

I recently purchased this locking tip for the grease gun and have used it twice. It is an amazing upgrade to the lincoln gun. One side benefit for this job is that the "trigger" can be used to get leverage on the tip to ensure it is at the correct angle for the grease port on the ujoint.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H7LPKKU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$30 yea, i know, but I have tried all sorts of tips and have had hit or miss luck with grease not making it into the zerk and spewing outside the zerk. This locking tip is a positive connection-- no wasted grease.


What grease gun do you use with that locking tip ? I need to buy a new grease gun. I have a couple of them that I have had for years but its time to get a new one.
 


Thanks I appreciate that also , and Merry Christmas to you.

With these new Rams other then that driveline zerk , I hardly need a grease gun anymore. I use one when doing wheel bearing, but I use that wheel bearing tool instead of the old hand job :)
Just need to pump it , and then remove from the tool. Used to have cars ,and trucks that actually had grease points. That link you gave me would surely be the one if you had a lot of greasing to do.
 
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