My transmission finally took a dump. No power to wheels in any gear. Lots of metal particles in trans pan. I ordered a complete 47RH transmission with all the goodies from ATS and am having it air freighted to me. I was going to take it to a transmission shop, but decided to change the trans myself. For those of you who have done this before, should I raise the truck up on jack stands? How high? How much time should I allow for the swap with one helper? Should I rent a transmission jack for both removal and install, or can I do the removal with a floor jack? I plan to remove the trans while I am waiting for the new one to be built and shipped to me. Should be here in about a week. TIA for any help or suggestions.
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Auto transmission removal hints/tricks?
- Thread starter Koa Man
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Koa Man ... .
Doing the trans on the ground is bad juju ..... get it on a lift!! You won't get the truck high enough to get the trans out from under on the jack ... . you need to use a trans jack ... . floor jack won't cut the mustard. Mark the driveshaft orientation ... . use care in removing the dipstick tube. Drain the t-case if you have a 4x4 and decide to do this on the ground. MAKE SURE YOU FLUSH BOTH TRANS COOLERS.
ON the ground will take you a couple of hours to remove ... . less than an hour on a lift. Air tools a must to save time ... .
Keith
Doing the trans on the ground is bad juju ..... get it on a lift!! You won't get the truck high enough to get the trans out from under on the jack ... . you need to use a trans jack ... . floor jack won't cut the mustard. Mark the driveshaft orientation ... . use care in removing the dipstick tube. Drain the t-case if you have a 4x4 and decide to do this on the ground. MAKE SURE YOU FLUSH BOTH TRANS COOLERS.
ON the ground will take you a couple of hours to remove ... . less than an hour on a lift. Air tools a must to save time ... .
Keith
Yeah, Keith, bad juju, heehee. 
You forgot to add, do it in a shop with electric power, LMAO !
Some "white-out" or "Liquid Paper" would be excellent for marking the driveshaft yokes, you don't want to get them back in just a few degrees off...
Koa Man, if you don't have a lift or access to one, don't freak. It can be done on the floor, just takes longer.
4-ton or larger jackstands are a must. Jacking the front of the truck up high enough to clear the dropped transmission on the transmission jack is a problem. Most floor jacks won't lift that high, mine lifts 21 inches, and it wasn't enough. Concrete blocks, ramps, whatever it takes, but do it SAFELY.
You forgot to add, do it in a shop with electric power, LMAO !Some "white-out" or "Liquid Paper" would be excellent for marking the driveshaft yokes, you don't want to get them back in just a few degrees off...
Koa Man, if you don't have a lift or access to one, don't freak. It can be done on the floor, just takes longer.
4-ton or larger jackstands are a must. Jacking the front of the truck up high enough to clear the dropped transmission on the transmission jack is a problem. Most floor jacks won't lift that high, mine lifts 21 inches, and it wasn't enough. Concrete blocks, ramps, whatever it takes, but do it SAFELY.
I've always used a floor jack without the transmission adapter. It's easy to get out, but a little more difficult going back in.
I had to jack up the truck once to clear the frame, but now with the 315/75's, I don't have to.
I generally put a mat under the transmission before letting it down off the floor jack. That way I can slide the transmission out from under the truck without scratching up the pan on the concrete.
The most difficult part for me is getting it back in. The truck is too short to roll the transmission in on the floor jack so I always in end up pushing the transmission underneath and then lifting it up on the floor jack. I put those small rachet straps over the frame at the front and back of the transmission. I rachet the transmission up about 6" until the floor jack will roll under. Then I keep the rachet straps there in case it falls off the jack for safety reasons. And yes, I did have it fall once.
The smart thing would be to put the transmission on the floor jack and have the truck jacked up enough to simply roll it in, but I haven't done that yet.
I've heard of people doing the swap in 4 hours by themselves, but personally, I'm not that fast. It usually takes about a day for me with tuning the VB and whatnot. But I take a lot of breaks and never had a helper.
I had to jack up the truck once to clear the frame, but now with the 315/75's, I don't have to.
I generally put a mat under the transmission before letting it down off the floor jack. That way I can slide the transmission out from under the truck without scratching up the pan on the concrete.
The most difficult part for me is getting it back in. The truck is too short to roll the transmission in on the floor jack so I always in end up pushing the transmission underneath and then lifting it up on the floor jack. I put those small rachet straps over the frame at the front and back of the transmission. I rachet the transmission up about 6" until the floor jack will roll under. Then I keep the rachet straps there in case it falls off the jack for safety reasons. And yes, I did have it fall once.
The smart thing would be to put the transmission on the floor jack and have the truck jacked up enough to simply roll it in, but I haven't done that yet.
I've heard of people doing the swap in 4 hours by themselves, but personally, I'm not that fast. It usually takes about a day for me with tuning the VB and whatnot. But I take a lot of breaks and never had a helper.
Use a transmission jack. Too much expense if it slips off a floor jack. You will need axle stands that are at least 21" high. 23 are better but the jack might not lift high enuff. Then it's still a squeeze to get it out from under the truck. There is a place where there is a little more clearance just ahead of the rear wheels. You will still have to tilt the trans forward to get the front of the trans to clear the frame.
The cross member has to be removed and can be a real bear. It either takes a short handled BIG hammer (jeep tool) to knock the cross member to the rear or something to spread the frame rails apart a little bit. The ends of the cross member are angled so it is wider at the top than at the bottom. So you have to move the cross member to the rear until the ends clear the angled place in the frame. A long tapered punch is a big help in getting the frame holes lined up with the cross member when you put it back in.
Don't remove the dip stick tube before you drain the trans. That gets you a bath.
Make sure you remove the TC with the transmission. The flex plate is not designed to support the weight of the TC.
Some long extensions and an air rachet really help in removing the bolts that attach the trans to the engine.
A few pieces of wire or cord are handy to tie the hoses and wires that hang down in the way to the side.
While you have it out replace the fuel hoses. Easy job with the trans out.
The cross member has to be removed and can be a real bear. It either takes a short handled BIG hammer (jeep tool) to knock the cross member to the rear or something to spread the frame rails apart a little bit. The ends of the cross member are angled so it is wider at the top than at the bottom. So you have to move the cross member to the rear until the ends clear the angled place in the frame. A long tapered punch is a big help in getting the frame holes lined up with the cross member when you put it back in.
Don't remove the dip stick tube before you drain the trans. That gets you a bath.
Make sure you remove the TC with the transmission. The flex plate is not designed to support the weight of the TC.
Some long extensions and an air rachet really help in removing the bolts that attach the trans to the engine.
A few pieces of wire or cord are handy to tie the hoses and wires that hang down in the way to the side.
While you have it out replace the fuel hoses. Easy job with the trans out.
Thanks for all the help so far. I have a nice concrete slab to work on, electrical and air power and I have 3/8, 1/2, & 3/4 dr. air tools. Looks like I will rent a trans jack and I'll see if I can get the truck up high (30 inches or so). I'll probably flat cut some large dia. logs and set the tires on that. I have the factory manual and I'll read the whole trans section first.
Any tricks on flushing the coolers, or just follow the manual?
Joe G. , thanks for bringing up the fuel lines... never changed mine yet, so this will be a good time.
Any other tricks or suggestions not already mentioned will be appreciated. Also wish me luck... I know I will need it.
Any tricks on flushing the coolers, or just follow the manual?
Joe G. , thanks for bringing up the fuel lines... never changed mine yet, so this will be a good time.
Any other tricks or suggestions not already mentioned will be appreciated. Also wish me luck... I know I will need it.
If you have a port-a-power or can rent one they work great for spreading the frame rails to remove the cross member. Don't know if it's the correct way but I've just used air to flush out the coolers from both directions then ran the engine after the new trans is installed without the return line from the cooler connected, pumping out a few quarts. Good way to drain the old trans before starting also.
auto transmission removal hints/tricks
I just finished taking my trans out and putting it back in by myself, with a floor jack. I had the truck up on stands and everything tied out of the way that I could get out of the way. The book says take the starter off, but I didn't see any reason to take it out, and it didn't cause a problem going back in. BE SURE to disconnect the negative posts as the manual suggests, to insure no accidental sparks. I found by taking the strap that holds the cooling lines to the block (driver side at the oil pan bolts) gave a lot of movement to the cooling lines to get them out of the way. If you plan on installing a new quick-connect fitting at the trans, susposedly they are no longer available, and only the upgrade lines are available.
I personally did not have much trouble getting the trans in or out laying on my back, but the drive line was the most awkward to handle. The air tools as suggested are a must for disassembly, but not for reassembly unless you can control the torque. If you see my post on thread repair, you'll see why.
Good luck and be careful, as that trans weighs a bunch!
_________________________
'96 auto 2wd
I just finished taking my trans out and putting it back in by myself, with a floor jack. I had the truck up on stands and everything tied out of the way that I could get out of the way. The book says take the starter off, but I didn't see any reason to take it out, and it didn't cause a problem going back in. BE SURE to disconnect the negative posts as the manual suggests, to insure no accidental sparks. I found by taking the strap that holds the cooling lines to the block (driver side at the oil pan bolts) gave a lot of movement to the cooling lines to get them out of the way. If you plan on installing a new quick-connect fitting at the trans, susposedly they are no longer available, and only the upgrade lines are available.
I personally did not have much trouble getting the trans in or out laying on my back, but the drive line was the most awkward to handle. The air tools as suggested are a must for disassembly, but not for reassembly unless you can control the torque. If you see my post on thread repair, you'll see why.
Good luck and be careful, as that trans weighs a bunch!
_________________________
'96 auto 2wd
Koa Man, you are gonna LOVE that ATS trans!
I've never R&R'd a 47RH or RE, but I've done a lot of other trans'.
Stability of the vehicle 30 inches off the ground is a MUST.
You might also see if you couldn't rent/use someone's shop which has a lift. It might be easier & safer in the long run. Maybe a garage would let you use it on Sunday for a small fee and a signed waiver.
I once put an engine in my old Farmall H, and I had to split the tractor in two, and support the back half, (about 30inches off the ground) I ended up cutting a bunch of treated yellow pine 8X8's into 36" sections. Then I used threaded rod to bolt 4 of the 8X8's together, which made nice thick stable blocks of solid yellow pine, 8X32X36. I stacked 4 of those babies up and it was great!
I've never R&R'd a 47RH or RE, but I've done a lot of other trans'.
Stability of the vehicle 30 inches off the ground is a MUST.
You might also see if you couldn't rent/use someone's shop which has a lift. It might be easier & safer in the long run. Maybe a garage would let you use it on Sunday for a small fee and a signed waiver.
I once put an engine in my old Farmall H, and I had to split the tractor in two, and support the back half, (about 30inches off the ground) I ended up cutting a bunch of treated yellow pine 8X8's into 36" sections. Then I used threaded rod to bolt 4 of the 8X8's together, which made nice thick stable blocks of solid yellow pine, 8X32X36. I stacked 4 of those babies up and it was great!
rrausch,
A lift would be nice, but I think most places here are too worried about liability even with a signed waiver. Shop owner would also probably want to stick around with a stranger in the shop. That would be wasting his weekend or I would have to compensate for his time. I am taking down a large pine tree tomorrow and was planning to use slabs from the tree to set the truck on. I'll screw in blocks on the slab too. Wouldn't want my truck squashing me.
Regarding the ATS trans, Don Ramer assured me that even with their 1450 rpm stall speed, I would have no sluggishness because they also have high torque multiplication. I am a bit concerned about that low stall speed because the Dunrite I currently have has the same stall speed and it is a little doggy of the line. It was real bad before I put in the 370s. Is yours a 1450 stall also? How is the initial take off from a standing start?
A lift would be nice, but I think most places here are too worried about liability even with a signed waiver. Shop owner would also probably want to stick around with a stranger in the shop. That would be wasting his weekend or I would have to compensate for his time. I am taking down a large pine tree tomorrow and was planning to use slabs from the tree to set the truck on. I'll screw in blocks on the slab too. Wouldn't want my truck squashing me.
Regarding the ATS trans, Don Ramer assured me that even with their 1450 rpm stall speed, I would have no sluggishness because they also have high torque multiplication. I am a bit concerned about that low stall speed because the Dunrite I currently have has the same stall speed and it is a little doggy of the line. It was real bad before I put in the 370s. Is yours a 1450 stall also? How is the initial take off from a standing start?
Yeah, getting squished would definitely ruin your day! I hate it when that happens. Seriously, pine tree sections should work fine if they're plenty wide and stable.
I have the same trans you are getting. Oh you'll like it OK! The ATS has great torque multiplication. My truck GOES now, in non-lock-up, instead of just making a lot of noise. This is because of the design of their stator. They take a stock stator and go at it with a 4-axis CNC machine, re-forming each blade so that it pushes way more fluid into the RIGHT places! You will find out the results and it will put a big smile on your face!
I have the same trans you are getting. Oh you'll like it OK! The ATS has great torque multiplication. My truck GOES now, in non-lock-up, instead of just making a lot of noise. This is because of the design of their stator. They take a stock stator and go at it with a 4-axis CNC machine, re-forming each blade so that it pushes way more fluid into the RIGHT places! You will find out the results and it will put a big smile on your face!
I want to thank everyone for their suggestions. Many proved helpful. Got the new ATS trans in truck now. Still waiting for controller on back order. Used floor jack with transmission adaptor and needed to get frame rails 28 inches high to clear. Changed fuel lines... . very difficult job even with trans OUT, don't know how you can do it with trans IN. Tabbed my KDP and changed oil seal and engine coolant. Just drove it around the block so can't report on how it does. Engagement in gear is much more positive than before and shifts real nice. Will report more after I get the controller in about a week and do some towing and city driving.
I'll be putting a new Georend Brothers transmission in my truck later this month, so I have a few more questions about the removal/installation...
Does the exhaust have to be removed?
How much does the transmission weigh?
With a jack under the pan, does the transmission balance pretty good?
How much does the transfer case weigh?
Are there generally adjustments to make once everything is buttoned up?
Thank you all.
Oo. BlakeOo.
Does the exhaust have to be removed?
How much does the transmission weigh?
With a jack under the pan, does the transmission balance pretty good?
How much does the transfer case weigh?
Are there generally adjustments to make once everything is buttoned up?
Thank you all.
Oo. BlakeOo.
Blakers,
I did not have to remove the exhaust on my truck, but I do not have a stock exhaust setup. My exhaust exits to the side just past the cab on the pass. side and up in front of my flatbed headboard. The trans balanced very nicely on the floor jack adaptor that I used. I would guess the my trans (2 whl dr. ) w/o the torque converter on it weighs about 150 lbs. with the extension housing. The triple loc converter weighs 69 lbs. Stock is about 58. I did not need to make any adjustments on mine. Shift points seems to be OK. I will wait until after I get my controller installed before I really check it out and go from there.
Maybe someone with a 4 whl. dr. can advise you on the other questions.
I did not have to remove the exhaust on my truck, but I do not have a stock exhaust setup. My exhaust exits to the side just past the cab on the pass. side and up in front of my flatbed headboard. The trans balanced very nicely on the floor jack adaptor that I used. I would guess the my trans (2 whl dr. ) w/o the torque converter on it weighs about 150 lbs. with the extension housing. The triple loc converter weighs 69 lbs. Stock is about 58. I did not need to make any adjustments on mine. Shift points seems to be OK. I will wait until after I get my controller installed before I really check it out and go from there.
Maybe someone with a 4 whl. dr. can advise you on the other questions.
Blakers,
I'll just add a few comments to Koa's reply.
The transfer case can be handled by one person, but it's awkward because you can't tell how the weight is distributed until you pull it off. It probably weighs 60-80 pounds.
As for adjustments on the shift points. That depends on how picky you are.
I'm guessing you are going to use a transmission jack, but on the chance that you are using a floor jack, I want to throw this in.
A stock transmission pan will bend with just using a floor jack. Trust me I've done it. Luckily, I had a spare. I use a piece of 1/2" plate about the size of the transmission pan to distribute the weight evenly to keep from bending the pan.
I'll just add a few comments to Koa's reply.
The transfer case can be handled by one person, but it's awkward because you can't tell how the weight is distributed until you pull it off. It probably weighs 60-80 pounds.
As for adjustments on the shift points. That depends on how picky you are.
I'm guessing you are going to use a transmission jack, but on the chance that you are using a floor jack, I want to throw this in.
A stock transmission pan will bend with just using a floor jack. Trust me I've done it. Luckily, I had a spare. I use a piece of 1/2" plate about the size of the transmission pan to distribute the weight evenly to keep from bending the pan.
Thanks guys for your help.
I was thinking the transmission weighed more than that. Well that should be too much of a problem as I've done NP 435 & T-18 4-speeds and NP 534 5-speeds before with minimal problems.
I have borrowed a transmission jack for some, but I made a plate that fits in my floor jack that distributes the weight better.
It sound quite manageable.
Take care,
Blake
I was thinking the transmission weighed more than that. Well that should be too much of a problem as I've done NP 435 & T-18 4-speeds and NP 534 5-speeds before with minimal problems.
I have borrowed a transmission jack for some, but I made a plate that fits in my floor jack that distributes the weight better.
It sound quite manageable.
Take care,
Blake
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
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