AUTO. Transmission

[NWright]

I have a 2001 model 2500 with auto & 354 rear end and turbo.
I have read a lots about exhust brakes and I know they do a good job but I don't want to modify my TC. I would like to see some post about your experience pulling and coasting down the mountains. I drove a gas driven motorhome for years in the mountains and never had a problem so why can't I pull a 27 ft 5ThWheel
Nathan

 

[Bill Kondolay]

Nathan,

The existing automatic transmission and tc in the dodge ram is more than capable of towing your trailer. Certain rules that you should follow the toughest one of all is to keep your rpms high. I always find it interesting that the guys with the standards talk about their rpms in the 2300 rpm range and the automatic guys around the 1700-1800 rpm range. Keeping your rpms up high with your automatic takes a little getting used to for most guys as the engine tends to be on the loud side.

As long as you stay away from the " i need more hp " if you dont really need it dont do it. If you are wanting or needing more hp, then you have to look at modifing the tc and transmission. Always stay away from mystery switches or devices forcing your tc to stay locked up.

If you dont have an exhaust brake and have no need for one, dont get one.

I have heard of guys commenting that they dont have to change brake pads any longer as they have an exhaust brake. My thought is that brake pads are a lot cheaper than replacing tc's and transmissions.

If you are towing in the mountains and need an exhaust brake, safety overides price. Use the exhaust brake sparingly and you will have to modify the vb to handle the extra load.

The tc is not always necessary with the exhaust brake, it depends on the individual circumstances.

I have talked to guys with well over 150,000 miles with their factory setup.

Bill
Diesel Transmission Technolgy.

 

[danandamy]

Listen to this guy Nathan, he knows what he's talking about.
I have a '95 auto with 3. 54's and pull a 33' travel trailer. I have been through Colorado twice with no problem and I don't have an exhaust brake. The main thing you need to do is make sure you have good trailer brakes and that your brake controller is adjusted properly. What I do when I hit a big downhill grade is the same thing the truckers do, namely start down the grade at say 35-40mph with the transmission shifted into second. Even with 108,000 miles my Cummins is still tight enough inside that it does a pretty decent job holding the load back. Let it coast and stay off the brakes. When my speed gets up to say 45-50, I brake it as though I were coming up on an intersection and was going to bring it to a complete stop. In otherwords, don't lolly gag on the brakes, get it slowed down to the speed you started off at and then get your foot back off of the brake pedal and start the whole thing again. This will allow your brakes to cool off between uses. I've never had a problem with brakes this way and my transmission fluid is never burnt when I change it. Sorry for the long post. Hope this helps.

Daniel

Edit: Nathan, Bill is having an informal transmission siminar in Dallas on the weekend of the 17th. Like I said, this guy knows his stuff and you could probably get your transmission questions answered there. You can find details in the "Local and Regional Events" page.
------------------
95 2500 SLT Laramie 3. 54, automatic,Herculiner bed liner, JVC cd out of factory infinity system, southwest grill gaurd (a favorite amongst the deer population), K&N chunked, AFC adjusted, dual straight exhaust out of "gutless" cat, Geno's dual EGT/boost gauge, TST #6 plate slid all the way forward, AFC housing slid all the way forward, silencer ring removed
"Don't be scared V8's, it's only a 6 cylinder"

[This message has been edited by danandme (edited 02-05-2001). ]

 

[red1ton]

I see most people talking about an e-brake and towing. I have a 3000 lb slide in and I want to be able to stop at the bottom of a hill. That's why I got an e-brake. I have heard people talk about not having brakes when they have to ride them to keep the speed down on a long grade with only the service brakes.

#ad


------------------
2001, 3500, 2X4, QC, SLT, Auto, 3. 54 gears, camper and tow packages. Lance model 1130 camper. Rancho 9000 5 Speed shocks. BD Brake, autoloc, pressureloc. Hadley air horns. OEM bugshield w/eyebrows and dash cover. Member San Jose Ram Runners.

 

[Flyboy]

Bill K.

I know very little about the real workings of an automatic transmission, and realize you are without doubt a top authority on the subject. However, I have found that while towing my 5th wheel in the Rockies with my stock auto it is impossible to keep the transmission temperature gauge below 300 degrees without a lockup device. (And it happens very quickly. ) I don't think such high temperatures are advisable. ? Perhaps if I had your TC and VB a lockup up device would not be needed but with a stock auto I see no other option.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Can't add any thing to the advice above but I have 1999 3500 with 3. 55:1 W/auto and tow a 31' 5th wheel. Have been to the left and right coast and through Colorado twice, 54000 miles at present. Went over Monarch pass twice, hit some steeper grades in Utah though. I replaced the front shoes on the truck at 42000 miles and the trailer brake shoes on all four wheels at the same time, probably about 25000 on the trailer since I have had it. bg

------------------
White 99 3500, QC, 3:55, auto. most options except leather, Line-X bed liner, fiberglass running boards Rancho 9000s, bug shield and window vents, black vented 5th wheel tailgate, 110 gal. aux. fuel tank.

 

[tlippy]

Bill K - Thank you for an honest opinion.

------------------
99' Quad 4x4 A/T LB 3. 54 30K Miles.
26' Terry w/slide 7500GVWR
"KISS your truck and it will be forever faithful"