Automatic Trans Questions - Any trans specialists care to help?

[Archive]

I just got off the phone with BD (talked to Chris) to see about stopping my TC clutch from slipping. (I put a TFOD-JR kit in before the DIESEL kit was available. ) Chris said a valve body wouldn't be enough and I should buy the pressure-loc. #ad
He suggested turning up the line pressure to try to get it to hold.
So then I called the Trans-go people. They said to buy the DIESEL kit and it should fix it. They also said don't turn up the line pressure or it won't upshift! #ad

What should I do to solve the problem? Why the differece of opinion to solve a mechanical problem? I plan on adding a different TC but not until next year. It could get real expensive dropping the pan and valvebody everytime something doesn't work. Can I get this to work with valve body mods or do I start buying parts and hanging them on? I want to keep cost to a minimum.

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'94 3500 4x4, 200,000! miles, Auto w/shift kit,3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member.

 

[Archive]

Extreme1

I would suggest you hookup a pressure gauge(s) to your transmission to see what's going on BEFOR swaping parts. The guys at BD or Ted at JRE can tell you what your pressures should be.
This was the only way I got a grip on what my trans. was doing and with the pressure info, I was able to adjust just what was needed and not just start changing things to "see if it would work" Good luck.

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97 2500, extcab,Auto, 4x4. BFG 295/85/16 AT, JRE Stage III plate, AFC spring kit, 230 injectors, K&N, 4" Edwards Exhaust with Dynomax straight through racing muffler & 5"tip, (Cat got "lost"), EGT, boost, oil& transmission temp. gages, Low Stall torque conv. & BD valve body, silencer ring "exiled", Grover Emergency air horn and a multitude of strobe lights and switches (Vol. firefighter)

 

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big kavr is right, install pressure gauge 0-300 psi to the center tap on the passenger side put in drive range and check pressures at idle and wide open if you can get there without spinning out, looking for range of 60-90 psi idle and 100-140 wot. i will help you if you like, i will also trade your jr kit pressure reg spring for a diesel kit reg spring. if you want to go through e mail it is goerend@powerbank.net, if you want help over the forum we can do that to. let me know if i can help.
dave

 

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Goer'
Will pressures vary depending on TC lock up?
Is your 100 to 140 pressure with TC lock up?
I am about to dump a ton of cash in my stock transmission to solve slippage problems myself.

 

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a-bomb,
these pressures are not moving, just easier to check while not moving. If you are going to check the pressures going down the road and if the valve body is the "tube type" there is a small tube that connects into 2 halves of the body, then the pressure will be prox 20 psi higher when in 4th or locked up. the 100-140 pressure will depend on the tension of the regulator spring and the size of the regulator spring ie wire diameter, numbere of coils, length of spring. so lets say you have 70 psi at idle and 120 at wide open throttle not moving, then you would have the same 70 at idle and the same 120 moving at wot, but would get prox 20 psi extra when it shifts to 4 or lock up so then it would be prox 140. or if you had 110 before 4th or lock up then it would have prox 130 when in 4th or lock up. the valve bodies without the "tube" do not increase the pressure in 4th or lock up any more than already increased by going to wide open throttle
dave

 

[Archive]

I was changing fuel filter when you replied.

Is the tube inside or outside transmission?

I think I answerd my own question. You said tube connecting two halve of valve body, which would be inside transmission.

If we're not getting right pressure do we install valve body or pressure loc to cure?


[This message has been edited by A-bomb (edited 09-08-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Regarding trans pressures, Chris didn't want to hear them ("you need to buy a pressure lock") and Gill at Transgo only wanted to know WOT in drive ("DIESEL kit will raise it to 135 psi"). Pressures are as follows:

Idle in drive: 62 psi
WOT drive locked up: 115 psi
18-2,100 drive locked up: 78 psi
WOT O/D locked up: 115 psi
18-2,100 O/D locked up: 85 psi
(Not enough poop to spin the daullies-loose converter, tall gears and big tires?)

Also, Gill (Transgo) said that trans not upshifting at WOT (an intermittant problem but I don't rev it that high normally) is from too high pressure and the DIESEL kit would fix it. He went on to say that the new DIESEL kits come with 4 different springs (probably the pressure regulator) to set the upshift point. My truck now upshifts at 2,550 rpm (too high) and it was suggested by Gill that it should upshift at 2,300. He went on to say that adjusting the TV cable wouldn't affect the shift point.

bigkavr, did you have to adjust pressure after the BD valve body?

Dave, it looks like the differences between the JR kit and the DIESEL kit (in the old set of instructions I have) are the pressure regulator spring (JR-white, DIESEL-blue) and the grinding on the TV valve and the different TV spring (white for my 12 valve). Of course the spacer is supposed to be added to the 2nd piston but the DIESEL inst. sheet (got from Piers at Sheid last year) has a BD comparison and states that it shouldn't be installed in the diesel trans or the retaining straps will be bent.
Sooo, yes I would be interested if I could get the white TV spring too. Either you or a 24 valver have one? Also, why do you want a JR spring? I don't remember (installed kit 2 years ago) is there room to get the PR spring out without dropping the valve body?

If I do have to buy a DIESEL kit, where and how much? If I can get the spring selection to tune the upshift, I may go that route.

Thanks for the help guys! TDR RULES! #ad
#ad


No e-mail this weekend but I will check the board a couple of times. I will e-mail Dave and see what we can do-stay tuned!!

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by Extreme1:
Dave, it looks like the differences between the JR kit and the DIESEL kit (in the old set of instructions I have) are the pressure regulator spring (JR-white, DIESEL-blue) and the grinding on the TV valve and the different TV spring (white for my 12 valve). Of course the spacer is supposed to be added to the 2nd piston but the DIESEL inst. sheet (got from Piers at Sheid last year) has a BD comparison and states that it shouldn't be installed in the diesel trans or the retaining straps will be bent.
Sooo, yes I would be interested if I could get the white TV spring too. Either you or a 24 valver have one? Also, why do you want a JR spring?

<font color=blue>He wants it in return because he does all kinds of trannys. Who knows one day someone might need that spring #ad


Hes prolly got a couple things left over from my Diesel Kit, if not I am sure he can find you one. The whole kit itself is under $100.

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[This message has been edited by KatDiesel (edited 09-08-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

A-BOMB and Extreme 1,
i am leaving for a wedding now but will answer the questions tonight or sunday when i return, in the few minutes i have reguarding the pressures. the 4 different springs in the diesel kit are throttle valve springs, grinding the throttle valve per instructions will allow an upshift at wide open throttle with higher line pressure, I like to know the full range of line pressure from idle to wide open throttle, you have the gauge hooked up how long does it take to get all the readings, what if the tv or the pr valve was stuck-you will find out by checking the pressure through the full travel of the throttle. There must have been a misunderstanding, adjusting the tv cable will effect the shift point, maybe not as much as you need but it will effect it. The function of the trans gear ratios is to toggle the engine between its peak horse power and its peak torque, some engines fall on their face at 2500 some don't, that is why there are 4 different tv springs, so you can adjust the shift timing--somewhat.
I dont install the spacer with a low stall converter, the 1-2 shift will be smoother without it.
Ive got extra springs like kat says. also on a gas valve body i use the white spring. dont spend money, ive got the springs you need. talk to you later
dave

 

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need to clarify that last post of mine,
the 1-2 and the 2-3 shift is effected by the tv cable, the 3-4 and lock up is effected by the throttle position sensor and the speed sensor.

 

[Archive]

Well, the results are in!
After considerable delays on my part, I finally redid the shift kit. Made
some adjustments and got everything working again (actually better that
before). What follows are what I did with the shift kit (may not be for
everybody) and what else needed to be done to realize the difference.

But first the final (?) result: #ad
#ad

OhmygodnowIknowwhatthey'retalkingabout!!!!
Actually it was more profane. #ad


First, a little more detailed background:
The trans was replaced in Jan '98 with a NEW Dodge unit. This gave me the
larger pan, improved O/D lubrication and the boost tube between the halves
of the valvebody.

I set out to change the shift kit from JR to Diesel. I ground the second
land on the "switch valve", ground the stem down on the TV valve and
installed the white TV spring. The manual valve was the same as the JR kit. I
replaced the separator plate with a NEW plate. The harsh shifting thing is
fun in my Trans Am but I envision a higher potential to break parts (shear
shafts/OD)
with that much torque on tap and this much weight holding it down. The new
plate softened the shift back up (still a bit firmer since the line pressure
is higher) and I didn't need to install the cotter pin to block the hole
that was actually drilled larger with the JR kit. The plates are
ridiculously
cheap ($6).
I also installed the blue pressure regulator spring from the Diesel kit (in
place of the white spring from the JR kit) and adjusted the screw (I ain't
tellin'). The yellow 4th accumulator spring was the same as the JR kit. I
set the tapered bushing (restriction) deep enough into the hole (it wasn't
quite). I did not install the spacer in the 2nd piston.

Bored yet?

Then the fun began. I could tell right away that it was working better. It
holds TC lock without slipping even at WOT. Cool! But the next night I
installed a new throttle cable to replace my fraying one. I couldn't get the
magic 5" dimension to come out. Wound up around 4 11/16". 3-4 and TC lock
were very late and it wasn't fun to drive. Couldn't get a good reading on
the TPS, thought it might have finally died. (It's the original and I DON'T
wash the engine!)

Also, even though the fuel pump rod seemed to be traveling fully (breakover
and all), It still didn't pull as hard as I was hoping. In fact it never
really had. Oh sure, the plate helped alot but I didn't know why some of you
folks thought these things were fast!
Anyway, after thinking about it for a couple weeks, I thought I'd give the
throttle adjustment another shot. Turns out the TC lock up disable switch I
installed at the pedal (like the BD e-brake switch) was holding up the
pedal. #ad
So I adjusted it. 5" right on the nuts. Set the idle up a little
too. (Don't have to climb in to start it now #ad
).

On the way to work this morning I got the chance to mash the throttle. #ad
No
slippage in lock up. Pulls hard when not locked up. Can't wait for the new
TC next spring. Can't wait to line up with a Purrahack or a Powerchoke. Yep,
it's fast.

Thanks again Dave G!



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'94 3500 4x4, 204,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member. Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"