Automatic Transmissions

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Ive been reading the newest imfo at the beginning of the website about engine brakes and automatic transmissions since I have a auto and quite often drive aroud town locked out of overdrive or in 2nd geardown a grade does this harm the transmission? I monitor the RPM etc. I try to be easy on the transmission when downshifting to 2nd ie. slowing down with the brakes and letting up on throttle when shifting back up to 3rd. I do not have a engine brake at this time. Is the transmission being overheated doing this ordamaged? Sometimes I wish I had a a manuel transmission again but this was to be my semi-retirement truck and I wasn,t going to shift anymore. Getting lazy. Hate to think I might have to do a trade-in or transmission mods just to keep a transmission in this truck!!!

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99-24v-SLT-Laramie-355 lsd-4x4-auto-reg. cab long box all options except cab lights and carpet K+N-Prime-Loc-Rino -Astroflex remote-Alcoa wheels-CUMMINS IN ALASKA!!!

 

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Just do what I did. Keep reading the TDR posts. Ive learned quite a bit since joining. Its ok to drive around town with the O/D off. I do it all the time. Sometimes Ill take out on the highway and let it rip with th O/D off as well. Let the engine clear its throut. Unless your going down a steep,long grade you shouldnt have to downshift to second,especially if your empty. TC is unlocked in second.

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1999 2500 Cummins w/4spd auto,Quad Cab,SWB,4x4,Flame red ,all options less leather and radio controls on steering wheel,OEM color matched runningboards,DeeZee bedrails painted black,Power Vision Mirrors,OEM ventshades,Oem sill covers,OEM underrail bedliner

 

[Archive]

Turbo Terry,
You need to be carefull when you are going down hill and the transmission Torque Converter is "unlocked", which is every time you remove your foot from the throttle while in 3rd gear/overdrive. The Torque Converter clutch is NEVER locked in second gear, so therefore the converter is slipping, and will cause heat to build in the transmission fluid.

Just remember, every time the (TCC)is unlocked, the Torque Converter is slipping and will generate heat! This is going up hill or down, it doesn't matter!

Wayne
amsoilman

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94'SLT 4X4 AT/White in color. Factory Tow Hooks & Running Boards. Amsoil By-Pass filter, Amsoil Air cleaner,and all fluids are Amsoil. Optima "Red Top" batteries.
BD exhaust Brake, BD Torque Lock, BD Torque Converter, Dr. Performance Stage II Injection Pump. Mag-Hytec Diff Cover,Mag-Hytec Transmission Pan, Isspro Pyro, Boost,Oil temp Gauges mounted in 3 Gauge post mount. One gauge monitors Engine Oil, Trans, Diff. Temps.

 

[Archive]

OK, then would someone fill me in on the details of hooking up a manual torque converter control switch? I know this has been beat to death, but I am a new member and dont have the details. Will this affect warranty of the trans or other components of the truck? I'm standing here by the truck with my wire pliers in hand... ..... Thanks in advance for any help.

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98. 5 QC 4x4 SWB, 24 Valve ISB, Auto, Silencer ring removed, Resonator and muffler removed and straightpiped, Airbox drilled, 305-70-16's on Custom wheels, Every option but leather and overhead trip computer/compass. Emerald Green with Lund visor and stainless body trim. Tekonsha Sentinel brake controller.
"If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch"

 

[Archive]

amsoilman-thanks for the post-this is the imfurmation I,m looking for. So driving in traffic,icy snowy slick roads in 2nd should be avoided because TC is always unlocked and is causing heat. I wonder if anybody out there in diesel land has a transmission temperature gauge on a automaic tansmission (yourself included)and could share ideas with us other A/T owners about what kind of heat temperatures they are seeing and under what circunstances. Many of us A/T owners do not have gauges. I can see that I need one to monitor the transmission tempertures especialy when towing and working these trannys to there limits. According to what I can find in my NEW BIG SERVICE MANUEL I have a 47RE transmission which is heavier duty than 46RE BUT I,m not really sure because the coding under the hood is all I have to go on now and its vague? Would they DC have put a 46RE in this truck? others might want to check this and transfer cases as well?Any responce truly appreciated as I still learning! THANKS and HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!!!

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99-24v-SLT-Laramie-355 lsd-4x4-auto-reg. cab long box all options except cab lights and carpet K+N-Prime-Loc-Rino -Astroflex remote-Alcoa wheels--ALASKA

 

[Archive]

Turbo Terry, I have a temp gauge with the probe in the pan (dipstick mounted). Although this is not the ideal place to sample (I believe it should be checked as it leaves the tran on its way to be cooled), I am able to monitor the temperature TREND fairly well. Temp spikes would get past me, but I don't load this transmission much, so I don't worry much about it.

My observations: At highway speed (O/D, TC locked) I usually read about 120, sometimes lower. When I'm puttering around town, 130-135 is common. When I'm pushing pretty good in town (with the TC slipping around), I ocassionally see 170. Romping on it (which I do rarely, and never sustained) I might see a reading just above 175, but that's as high as I've ever seen it. Overall, around 125 is what I'd consider to be "normal". 'Hopes this helps a bit.


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Bruce Reynolds

Y2K 2500 QC 4X4 Sport, black 3. 54 auto, EVERY option but Cab Lights. Black brush/grille guard and bed rails (Dodge), black Westin nerfs. Black diamond plate in-the-bed tool box. K&N air filter. Westach gauges in the A-pillar. Kickaway Side Steps. Tailsafe, Steadfast Ignition Armor and other security stuff. Silencer ring and muffler OUT - Love that sound! Performance mods in the distant (post-warranty) future... Pesonalized tag due in Next month: RAMPAGE

 

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The issue of monitoring transmission temp and how to do so has plagued me for some time. On the now gone '96 I had a temp sender installed in the transmission pan and a stewart warner guage the minimum "indicated" reading of which was 140 deg. This system rarely got as high as 140 indicated and never as high as 200. I now am waiting the delivery of a '01 and have been looking into the whole issue again. 1) I have already bought a Cross hydraulic filter assy. for installation on the new truck (when it gets here)following the insight of tdrmember DDGARR. This assmy. has a port for 1/8 npt sender built in. This will enable me to have temp. sensing at a point after the water/oil heat exchanger(mounted on the passenger side of the engine) but before the air/water cooler. This is, of course, more meaningfull than the pan, but arguably not good enough since the measured temp will be that of oil after it has passed through the water/oil heat exchanger, hence potentially, and probably, misleading. Some folks assert that a pressure port (on transmission)is a good location but I am of another opinion as these are "no flow" points and will not give one any "real time" information respecting temp. rise.

During a discussion with a "truck enhancer" this past week I learned of another approach that I may follow. (The filter goes in, in any case. ) These folks, Row Enterprises of Redding Ca. will (and do, in their guage installations) insert a "t" fitting in the metal pipe that leaves the transmission and goes to the input of the water/oil heat exchanger, the "t" fitting accomodating a 1/8 npt sender. They want 50 - 60 bucks to do it for me and I am thinking about it. This, of course will be as "real time" as you can get. the issue is cost/benefit ratio and <grin> do I really want to know the temp. of the oil as it leaves the converter.



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Lonely and in mourning Ordered y2k and advertised the '96. The darn thing was bought the first day ad was run. Two months have gone by and I still don't have a delivery date. Boo hoo sniff, sniff, no truck to drive, wash,wax, and otherwise pamper over the holidays.


[This message has been edited by Nelson Buck (edited 12-30-1999). ]

[This message has been edited by Nelson Buck (edited 12-30-1999). ]

 

[Archive]

nelson, i think that will be 50 bucks well spent ,as i remember seeing an article somewhere recently about a change in the cooling path of the Y2K rams , there is now a loop added that bypasses the cooler till the fluid gets up to temperture , the article told you how to go about flushing the system , which now turned into a 2 part , flush the trans lines , then flush the cooler path , as you need to remove the cooler temp check valve , i will have to go thru my pile of stuff to find it , ... was it maybe in the latest TDR ???

anyway pre-cooler is definitely the way to go , i am thinking a compression fitting type or flare inline a tee with a 1/8 npt female to screw in a temp sensor , i have noticed that one of the extras that comes with the snow plow prep is a trans temp warning indicator , i didn't get snow plow prep but i am going to try and find out where that sensor is located , i may be the easiest pickup point if its not in the pan ... anyone with an '00 shop manual want to look it up for us ????

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John W. in N. H.
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Y2K on order, status: painted 12/14 ,stuck in QUALITY HOLD HELL 12/24, ship date 12/??, 2500, SLT+, Quadcab, 4x4, CUMMINS, Auto, TT, CS, 3. 54 LSD, Driftwood, Camel Leather and LOADED, aspiring to B. O. M. B.

1969 Dodge Superbee, Black on Black, 383, 4spd , BOMBed

 

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I believe you are correct. I think I may have seen it in (on) Ram Tech Homepage or link.

There is a shunt installed in the '00 air/oil cooler which is temperature controlled (must be some kind of bimetallic thingamajig) which shunts transmission oil past the cooler until a certain temp is reached. I don't know if it will be a "feature" on the '01.

The material I saw suggested that the air/oil cooler should be REMOVED and flushed as part of a transmission oil replacement. That is one of the reasons I am going to put on the Cross filter assy. in any event. A 10 micron, 20 gpm filter in front of such a "switch" which needs "flushing" can't be a bad thing.

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Lonely and in mourning Ordered y2k and advertised the '96. The darn thing was bought the first day ad was run. Two months have gone by and I still don't have a delivery date. Boo hoo sniff, sniff, no truck to drive, wash,wax, and otherwise pamper over the holidays.




[This message has been edited by Nelson Buck (edited 12-30-1999). ]

 

[Archive]

MoparMus:
My owners manual implies that the "TRANS TEMP" fluid over temp idiot light is standard with automatics. Can any 'lectric transmission owners out there verify this?

Turbo Terry:
You may wish to reread your owners manual regarding gear usage. Driving in town out of OD or using 2nd on down grades for engine braking are both approved and recommended procedures by Dodge.

So does this mean you will never have any transmission problems? No, but as long as you operate and maintain your vehicle IAW your owners manual, in stock configuration (ie, sans e-brake), and within the specified towing weights for your configuration, DC will be required to repair it free of charge. AND with a through knowlege of these procedures on your part, this requirement may in fact go beyond the 3yr/36K basic warranty period.

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'00 2500, 4x4, QC, Cummins ETC/6spd, 3. 54, Camper, Trailer, SLT, 4ABS, BD E-brake, Pullrite 20. 5K 5th hitch, Tekonsha Envoy-SX Tbrake, Flame Red/Silver, Agate

 

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The 99s also have a temp sensor. Its designed to kick the O/D off if temps go over 225deg. Nelson,Im like you as far as mounting of the sensor. Im thinking of ordering another pipe and welding a fitting on it for the sensor. Only thing to look out for is not to obstruct the oil flow. Dealer wanted over $100 to weld one on my pan. NOT!

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1999 2500 Cummins w/4spd auto,Quad Cab,SWB,4x4,Flame red ,all options less leather and radio controls on steering wheel,OEM color matched runningboards,DeeZee bedrails painted black,Power Vision Mirrors,OEM ventshades,Oem sill covers,OEM underrail bedliner

 

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rwv, my '94 has the transmission "hi-temp" warning light as standard eq. It came on for me once when we were dragging our 13,850+lb. fifth wheel up a long mountain just after we had to stop at the bottom for a wreck to clear out. . For what it's worth...

Rob...

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'94 2500SLT, LB, 3. 54, Auto (still original), TST 230 Fuel Plate, K&N Filter, PacBrake, AutoLoc, EGT Gage, DeeZee Chrome Full Length Running Boards, Vent Shades,. Pull 35' HitchHiker 5th Whl (13,850+ lbs) 118,770 miles as of 12-22-99. Full Time RV'ers, Portsmouth, Ohio is "home".

 

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TurboTerry,
Yes, I do have a temp gauge on the transmission. It is mounted in the pan. I also use synthetic ATF. I have never seen the temp go above 190 F. This was pulling a very long 6 % grade, pulling a CGW of 16,200 lbs.

Running flat highways it is generally around 130 F. towing the same load in the summer heat. Winter is a different story. Driving with NO LOAD it will never get to 120!

Wayne
amsoilman

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94'SLT 4X4 AT/White in color. Factory Tow Hooks & Running Boards. Amsoil By-Pass filter, Amsoil Air cleaner,and all fluids are Amsoil. Optima "Red Top" batteries.
BD exhaust Brake, BD Torque Lock, BD Torque Converter, Dr. Performance Stage II Injection Pump. Mag-Hytec Diff Cover,Mag-Hytec Transmission Pan, Isspro Pyro, Boost,Oil temp Gauges mounted in 3 Gauge post mount. One gauge monitors Engine Oil, Trans, Diff. Temps.

 

[Archive]

Michael, A hundred bucks? What do they charge for a transmission drain and refill?

What I did on my '96 was buy a cast iron 1/2 npt flange designed to be welded to a tank etc. from my local plumbing supply and when the dealer dropped my pan to drain etc. I took the pan to my friend who drilled a hole and welded the flange on (drivers side of pan). I screwed a brass reducer in to the flange and then screwed in the 1/8 npt "sender" and redelivered the modified pan to the dealer. Delay for dealer maybe 15 minutes. I would think any weld shop would do it for 15 - 20 bucks. The flange and reducer was much less than 5 bucks.

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Lonely and in mourning Ordered y2k and advertised the '96. The darn thing was bought the first day ad was run. Two months have gone by and I still don't have a delivery date. Boo hoo sniff, sniff, no truck to drive, wash,wax, and otherwise pamper over the holidays. Hear, hear scheduled SHIP date is 01/06/00. Two days to build, I sure hope those folks in Saltillo have gotten over their hangovers.