2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Aux springs+sawzall=better ride?

[Hohn]

OK fellas--



I have a shortbed with the Aux springs that came as part of the Camper Package. I RARELY tow (almost never about once a year for someone else), and it's light when I do. In short, I got a 2500 to get the CTD, but a 1500 would have been just fine. .



Thus, the ride is punishing sometimes. The SWB with the aux springs gives me about 1. 5 inches before the spring rate goes way up.



Can I just fire up the trusty problem solver (Milwaukee 12A Sawzall) and cut those springs back to where they don't contact the frame ears? I mean, of course I CAN do it, but what negatives would there be?



I'm trying to get more wheel travel in day-to-day use.



Justin

 

[AHughes]

Hohn, I have a 3/4 ton LB and I've taken the overloads off and bought the Roadmaster Suspension springs for the rear. I think Mr. Bob's has them and installed them and got rid of the banging and clanging in the rear. The truck is much more stable as well in winding roads. I tow a 7K lb trailer on occasion and don't notice any change in the loading. My truck weighs 8000 lbs and the tongue weight is about 600 lbs. with a weight equalizing hitch. Works great and rides like a car when empty. Also changed to 8 ply tires rather than 10 ply.



98. 5 3. 4 ton LB VanAaken, AFE, F1 65hp injectors, DSS, gages, mag hi-tech fr & Rear, DTT converter & Valve body.

 

[Tom W]

Hohn, I also have the Roadmaster suspension and it works great. If you don't want to go that way, why not just remove the spring stops? I think they just bolt on. You can also remove the overload springs if you want but you might need shorter U bolts.

 

[Tcolesanti]

U-bolts are cheap, just take off the overloads and contacts for the overloads and sell them, you should get a much more linear spring rate.

 

[RobertMiller1]

Wouldn't it be better to remove one primary spring from the pack, say the shortest one, and leave theoverloads? The problem is the primary springs are too stiff.

 

[jkern]

if you rarely haul or tow anything, the overload springs never get any weight on them, therefore they can't contribute to the harsh ride. it is my experience that it takes about 1500 pounds before they ever touch the ears to put any weight on them. if you want a better empty ride, you have to tackle the main spring pack.

 

[Hohn]

U-bolts are cheap, just take off the overloads and contacts for the overloads and sell them, you should get a much more linear spring rate.

BINGO! That's what important to me here is linearity. That's why I'm looking at the overloads. They come in too soon and too strong.



Tom W-- I think the spring stops are welded to the frame, not bolted. If they are bolted, I'll just remove them; that would be the easiest.



Jkern-- not true, imho. I agree that it takes about a decent amount of weight (1K#+) to get it to rest on the overload springs-- AT REST. The problem comes when you start going over bumps. Even with NO weight in the back, I can feel and hear the overloads kicking in when I go over a big bump.



I realize that the main pack is too stiff, and that's the main problem. But because the aux springsallow so little travel before they kick in, I was thinking it might help to remove them.



Of course, how that screws up the Height sensitive brake proportioning isn't something I want to dwell on. If the system assumes that a certain ride height= a certain load, then it might shift too much braking power to the rear under some conditions if I weaken the springs.



Anyway, thanks for your input, fellas.



jlh

 

[RobertMiller1]

the overloads won't be involved in any small bump or pot hole imho.

 

[y-knot]

You are on the right track, to a better ride. I too removed the overload spring packs in an effort to have a better ride. The problem is they do not allow much suspension travel before they hit the overload spring stops. This sudden stop in the suspensions travel, results in a very rough ride. By removing them, the rear main leaf springs are allowed the flex without interference, which makes for a much improved ride quality.

I would not just wack them off with a saws all, the better way would be to loosen the U-bolts and remove the spring packs. There is a 1/2" solid steel spacer that separates the overloads springs from the main springs, you will most likely need to get shorter U-bolts since you removed more height then there are threads. Not a big deal they can be ordered from any off road shop for around 30-40 dollars. Good luck and enjoy the new ride.

 

[John - K5AWO]

My spring shop told me to take off the overload stack.



Pull the 2nd leaf out of the main stack.



Flip the bottom short leaf upside down.



His reasoning was that this would give the spring stack a progressive rate instead of the buckboard wagon all at once action of the stock truck.



Like you, I run empty 98% of the time. And, since I was given a set of air bags, I can install them if a big load ever shows its' face...

 

[Bob4x4]

Hit a rr track and the overloads will catapault you on an empty truck. I added the camper pkg to my truck and with-in a weeks time pulled off the stops. Back to my nice ride. Sold the overloads to someone that is overloaded.

I added the roadmasters and it is a nicer compromise.

I weigh about 4k on the rear axle and it is a pretty nice ride now.



Bob

 

[ACoyle]

How about removing the contatcors? Then the springs won't hit anything and if you tow heavy just put them back in. That's what I did on my '72 Dodge