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Auxilary Back-up Lights

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Geno's Cab Fresh Filter Question

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I am trying to find a set of Auxilary back-up lights to mount on my truck. I want something that I can wire to a switch so that they can be used as lighting when hooking up trailers in the dark but also for backing up in dark areas. I want to find something fairly small and not to expensive since they won't be used as often as driving lights would be. I saw some at Wal-Mart that would work good for what I need, but was wondering if I could find something that is a little better quality.





Thanks for your input.
 
I've got a set of KC HiLites, pretty bright, quality is very good, and if I remember right they werent' too expensive ($60 or so). I wired them into my backup lights with a relay and fuse, just in case. Hope this helps
 
I have a pair of 4x6" tractor lights hung under the rear bumper, wired through a relay to a switch in the cab. Should be able to find everything you need at a farm supply store.



The lights are very bright, have held up very good, but I am going to fab a set of steel gaurds to go behind them, as they are starting to show a few small dents and scratches from stones thrown by the tires hitting them.
 
Plan on replacements

Lights:

I have found that after 18 months or so every backup light I have had on my trucks have needed replacement from corrosion or breakage. (northeast winter salt). For some reason the lenses just don't last ---- and it is not from hard contact. Lately I have been using round rubber tractor lights with halogen sealed beams and they give off plenty of light. I actually have 2 on the back of the boat trailer as well, but the salt water really shortens the lifetime. These lights are available at most auto parts stores. Lights I have tried that don't last: Hella driving and fog lights - lenses constantly cracked, rectangle "tractor" trapezoidal lense halogen lights - lenses cracked, non - halogen round rubber utility lights - way too dim. Wanted to try the Night Rider but it looks like it would make the receiver removal too difficult.



Electrical:

My last ruck the BU lights were wired to come on with the OEM lights or switched. I had a switch in the cab and one in my cap (required a diode to isolate from the OEM lights). I often used the lights while towing to check on the trailer at night. The current truck backup lights are only relay driven and triggered by the OEM light switch. Looking at the wiring diagrams for the backup light switch I found something very interesting... ... when the backup lights come on, the rear view mirror automatically comes out of auto -dim mode. I need to find out if I can "backfeed" this circuit to control the backup lights with a console switch so I don't have to run wires from one end of the truck to the other.
 
I used a couple of cheap driving lights from Harbor Freight. About $12 a set if I remember correctly. The idea was that if I broke them off I would not be out much. The lens is glass and the body is plastic. Nothing to corrode. 35 watt halogen so they really light up things. Much to my surprise I have not broken them or had any problems.
 
The ones on my truck that have lasted the longest are the tractor lights from Northern Tools. I had a woman slide under my truck and broke one bulb but have had no problem with the light other than that.



. . Preston. .
 
I think I spent $12 total on this:



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They work EXTREMELY well for backing up, night hookups, and for warning tailgating ricers that a large cloud of smoke is just about ready to engulf them. :cool: Relayed to reverse lights and also to switch in cab. They are tractor flood-lights from Napa.
 
Thank you for all your input. I think I will go with the cheap lights that I have found and see how they work. If I have problems I am not out much and will pick up the "White Nights" from Geno's
 
ya, I cut the 4" holes in the bumper.



I have a 4" holesaw, but it wouldn't do crap on that bumper except score the outline of a 4" hole... . which worked out perfectly! I then took a good cutoff wheel on my variable speed dremel and worked my way around the line. W/ the rubber "close" is good enough. I then put the lights/rubber in and RTV'd the rubber in on the outside part and then RTV'd the light into the back of hte rubber as well. Been going good since July, and if the lights burn out they can be easily replaced.



Looks a little redneck, I know, but that's what I am, and it gets the job done very well... what more do you need?
 
I also put the cheapest driving lights I could find on mine and mounted a switch to my shifter.

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I mounted mine under the spring shackle so I would not break them by backing into a shrub or snow bank. The first set I had mounted farther to the rear, and were taken out (READ - GONE when I got home) by splashback from driving in 6" - 1" of slush after a wet snow.



I also have a set mounted under the cab to light up the rear tires so I can see the curb/edge of the road before it drops off into the 10' ditch (long story)



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I wired mine from a double throw relay with one signal coming from reverse and one signal coming from the the suply wire for the cargo light that I taped in the a pillar. Two advantages to this is that I didn't have to mount a switch in the cab and I get the chime and warning light in the dash so I don't leave it on and blind people behind me (unless their tailgating and I want to :-laf )
 
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I bought a set of driving lights at the local O'Riley Auto parts store that fit between the tow bar and the bumper. Very low profile and well protected. The best part of the lights is that they are wireless. You get a small remote that you can put on your key chain. I keep mine in the console. This worked great because you do not have to tie into the factory wiring. 1 ground, 1 power hooked to the battery, thats it. About $40. 00 and I am very happy with them.
 
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