Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Auxilary Fuel Tank Switch

[JSandusky]

I've been thinking of installing a auxilary fuel tank in the bed of my truck. My local Atwoods has a descent looking one with built in toolbox. It isn't designed to be an auxilary tank, but a transfer tank with pump for equipment. I want that feature too, as I have tractors and things that burn diesel. But I would also like to switch to this tank for long hauls, etc. I know I could just stop and pump my main tank full with the electric transfer pump that I use to fill tractors, but I don't want to do that. I want to be able to flip a toggle switch and have it burn off the auxilary tank. I know this has to be possible, as many trucks come with 2 tanks from the factory.



My question is, what type of switching mechanizm do I need? Where can I purchase it? I want to make sure it flow enough for our trucks and is diesel compatible. I know it will need a supply and return. I have no desire to have my fuel gauge switch over to read the aux tank, so that should make things simplier.



Anyone know what fuel switch valve would work for me?



Thanks!

 

[Big-D]

Why not just transfer the fuel to your factory tank? You wouldn't have to worry about a guage, return lines and filter system.

Just a thought.

Dave

 

[JSandusky]

I want to keep the fuel seperate. That would be an easy way to do it, but there may be times I have off road diesel in my auxilary tank and I don't want that in my main tank. I want to ability to choose which tank I'm burning from.

 

[John - K5AWO]

Originally posted by JSandusky

My question is, what type of switching mechanizm do I need? Where can I purchase it?

Imperial Valve makes fuel valves. Back in '74 I drove a Suburban with an aux 58 gal tank I had special made. I worked in the petroleum industry then and we had "drip gas" by the 10's of thousands of gallons. That '74 suburban 454 with 2 degree retard ran over 230,000 miles and never saw a gas pump. I mounted the Imperial valve on the side hump below the driver's seat about 2" above the floor rail. Worked like a champ. I always made sure the main tank was down to about 1/4 before using fuel from the aux tank. The overflow went back to the main tank filling it up again. I forgot about it a couple times and ran fuel out onto the highway on some long 27 hour drives. Brain gets foggy about 0430 just as the sun peeps out, ya know.



John

 

[Ron Bissett]

forgetting about the red in the bed , You must think about how the fuel will be pushed to the pump with enough psi and volume to supply the injector pump and cool it too and return to tank ,the pump would have to run all the time or the line would have to connect before the lift pump. Just some thoughts . Ron Bissett in Metro Louisville KY

 

[OTRPU]

An old farmers trick, mine just gravity drains into the main tank. Not necessairily DOT approved. Just filled 140 gallons in Gary, IN for 1. 529 and hauled a 30 foot 5er to Kaysville, UT. Still had 5 gallons when I dropped. Put the 15 gallons I had in 5 gal bottles in the bed in the truck and drove back to Cheyenne, WY. Even the great state of Wyoming has given in to the greed rolling accross these states. Had no choice but to pay $1. 699 in Cheyenne to get me to Omaha, NE where I'll pick up another 50 Gallons to get me back to Gary, IN. I'd switch to a 250 gallon tank cept DOT won't allow it. Dam people outta their rabid ass minds. Gonna put lots of folks out of business soon if it doesn't stop. Already guys losing their tractors again. Any people against unions are getting what they deserve, only hope a working stiff has of getting a fair shake. This government would like to get rid of all unions and turn them all into Right To Work FOR NOTHING States.



Cheers,

Steve J.

 

[Cummins Pilot]

I got a toolbox/tank combo fro RDS out of FL. It is set up for aux. I had the bung modified to allow for a hand pump. But it is plumbled into the main tank. I have a 5gpm pump that draws fuel out of aux tank, pushed it through a filter and is dumped into the main tank with a T connection about 12" from the main fill hole. Works really good. the aux tank hold 90 gallons. I really like it.

 

[Big-D]

Cummins Pilot



Pretty much the way I went except I use an carter pump to make the transfer. My fuel is filtered twice prior to the injection pump and use my OEM fuel guage to monitor when to turn off the aux pump. I usually stop the transfer when the needle hits 3/4 full. Never wasted any yet. Can't afford it. I plan to install a RED light next to the switch so as to help me remember to turn it off.

Dave

 

[JSandusky]

What you guys are doing certainly works good and sounds like the easy way of utilizing an auxilary tank, BUT I wish to keep my fuel seperate. There will be times I have red off road diesel in my auxilary tank, I don't want any of the red diesel in my main tank just in case I'm ever checked by DOT.



I want the ability to choose which tank I'm burning out of. It would be nice to be able to do this from the cab with a toggle switch of some kind, but I guess I could mount some pysical valves with knobs if I have to.



Surely someone has installed some fuel valves like this of some kind.

 

[btanner]

I would think to run the system that you want you would need another entire fuel system for it to work the way that you want. Different fuel lines from the tanks to t somewhere together with a one way check valve. Also you'd have to have a separate fuel pump I guess if plumbed properly you could use the stock lift pump. I don't know if it would work really all that well but you could do it. Just have to make another system to switch to.



ben

 

[rholcom2]

If you are thinking of "plumbing in" your red fuel in your "bed tank" you should know. At least in Indiana, the DOT WILL crawl (with no fear of getting dirty, I know, its out of nature for most cops, but they will), under your truck and see if it is plummed in. If it is, they check the "bed tank" and WILL ticket you for running red fuel even if you have road fuel in your truck tank. Just a heads up. It happened to my friend.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Only way you're gonna get what you want is what one said above - essentaially 2 separate fuel delivery systems up to the stock injection pump or filter. You need to not only switch between the 2 fuel tanks as a source, but also the fuel return lines. That will require 2 electric switchover fuel valves, one to switch fuel sources, and another to switch fuel return lines...



Then, after all that is accomplished, you gotta cross yer fingers that the feds don't just crawl under the truck and check yer plumbing - like the guy above said... They have been known to lift the lid on the fuel filter for fuel samples - so if ya happen to be running off the red stuff when stopped. simply hitting the changeover switch will still leave evidence downstream...

 

[tgbol]

Pollak makes six ported valve that is switched by electric motor.

Available here:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs...alogId=10101&storeId=10101&langId=-1&TID=1544

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Pollak makes six ported valve that is switched by electric motor.

Available here:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs...gId=-1&TID=1544



JEEZE that is a sweet looking valve - even has provision for switching fuel guage as well - I'm tempted to get one for my in-bed tank!

 

[JSandusky]

Since I originaly started this thread, I have bought and installed a tank in my bed. It's a 90 gallon tank/toolbox with external electric pump and house for filling tractors, etc. I also had fittings welded on so that I could plumb it into my truck. I used a NAPA 6 way electric fuel switch and toggle switch under dash. It works great! I even have better fuel pressure when burning from the big bed tank, probably due to it being higher then the truck tank.



Anyway, about this RED diesel and being checked. First off let me explain how I use my tank. I use my bed tank to carry RED diesel most of the time. I haul it to my tractors and heavy machinery. I always keep clean NON RED diesel in my truck tank. I burn from the my truck tank most of the time. However the whole reason of going to the trouble of plumbing my big bed tank in was so that I could use it on long trips. For instance I just made a trip to Colorado pulling a 30' section of bridge. I emptyed out all the RED diesel into my machinery that the pump would suck and then toped it off with NON RED diesel for my trip. I'm sure there was a few gallons of RED still in there, as the pump can't suck it all up. Anyway I went on my trip and burnt both tanks up.



I always wonder in the back of my head what would happen if I was to get checked by DOT. I always have clean NON RED diesel in my main tank and that's the tank I'm burning from, unless there's NON RED diesel in my bed tank. Could they fine me if I had RED diesel in my bed tank, even though I wasn't burning it? I have good clean taxed diesel on board and I'm burning it, could they still fine you for carring the RED diesel?



I also read somewhere that it doesn't take much RED diesel for their test equipment to tell it's there. It can be really dilluted and still show up. That makes me a little nervous because there's no way for me to get it all out of my big bed tank before filling up with NON RED diesel, so it could show up I guess? Anyone know much about their testing procedures and how much RED diesel it takes to get you in trouble with their testers?



I've also been told that they don't always "dip" your tanks to test for red dye, they can also "sniff" your exhaust for excessive sulfur content. Is this true? Do they do this or the dip test the most? I think I would be good on a "sniff" test if that is truly one of the testing ways, as a little RED left over shouldn't cause much difference in sulfer.

 

[OTRPU]

I can hear DOT laughing now. Good luck. I wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole.



Cheers,

Steve J