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Auxiliary In Bed Fuel Tank Install

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opinions on a high mileage truck

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I'm getting ready to install an auxiliary fuel tank (100 gal.) in the bed of my truck. My last truck (06 Dodge) I did the same and used the adapter you can buy that goes inline in the filler hose between the cap and the tank. It just gravity fed and kept the stock tank full, it worked great. My question is has anyone done this with a 4th gen truck with the capless filler system? I'm worried that with the capless system it might overfill and run out the filler or somewhere else.
 
I have the gravity flow on the 17 but I also bought the diesel fuel cap through Genos. The gravity flow works the same as it did on the 96.
 
There’s a hose between the pipe and the tank. I cut that in half, removed a few inches and put the rollover valve/tee in. Worked fine for the last two years.
All I have to do is replace the hose and it’ll be completely stock again. I’m going to pick up the hose tomorrow because I need to sell my truck. I’m going to sell the modified one once I get it off.


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I take out the steel fill neck and braze 1/4" fittings in the neck and install a barbed fitting in it. When it comes time to trade, I remove the barb fitting and install a pipe plug.
 
There’s a hose between the pipe and the tank. I cut that in half, removed a few inches and put the rollover valve/tee in. Worked fine for the last two years.
All I have to do is replace the hose and it’ll be completely stock again. I’m going to pick up the hose tomorrow because I need to sell my truck. I’m going to sell the modified one once I get it off.


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This is how I'm going to do mine, what's the replacement hose cost, get at the dealer? Thanks
 
So would one of you share where you found the "roll over valve tee" your talking about in the above posts..... thanks..
 
Maybe here from RDS, this is the only place that I see it listed by itself instead of part of a kit...

#00102

That's just the fitting, I read your post again and you are saying "TEE" so maybe you do need a kit...

#11025 is the Dodge kit. You can get those from Northern Hydraulics as well...



http://www.rdsaluminum.com/rds-parts.html

Northern Hydraulics Link to kit..

Problems with the site...here is a screenshot...

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That's a pile of obsolete garbage! Yellow metal doesn't belong anywhere near the modern Biodiesel laced ULSD we get nowadays! The Yellow metal turns green and leaches corrosion particles into the fuel from biodiesel exposure. It also accelerates the fuel oxidation process leaving insoluble gels and salts. Sure there is a smaller effect say with low level B5, but, we discuss the best fuel filters on here so just saying. http://biodiesel.org/docs/ffs-performace_usage/materials-compatibility.pdf?sfvrsn=4
 
I'm also thinking about an in bed fuel tank. With this type setup I take it that you only fill the auxiliary tank. I've got the Geno's green friction fit fuel cap. Is this enough to keep fuel from overflowing?
 
The t has a ball that floats up and chokes off the fuel flow once the main tank is full. If this ball sticks or gets debris on it the trucks tank will over fill and spill out until the auxiliary tank is empty. I plan to just turn the shutoff valve off once the trucks tank is full as a safeguard to the loss of fuel to the ground.
 
Without the ball in the t fitting the fuel tank would be slightly pressurized before fuel found its way out the inner flapper or tank vent. If the tank was allowed to pressurize at night the tank would gain more pressure the next day as the fuel expanded with the temperature increase of the fuel and ensuing volume expansion of the diesel. I know of many guys running the rds tanks and filler kit with absolutely no issues. I am however interested in the above comment about the yellow metal being an issue. That is the first time i have heard of that but it makes sense and i want to avoid issues when i get my tank in.
 
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