Auxillary Fuse block

[JCyrbok]

What is everyone using for an auxillary fuse block, the Kit that Geno's sells or is there something else/better out there?



Is it an easy install? I can do anything with good directions.



I'm looking to re-run my 2 guage's power, powervision mirrors, and future air horns and fuel box ( if they need their own power) to the aux fuse box for easier maintenance and less strain on stock circuits. Which would be better all ignition hot or 50/50 ignition and constant?



ANy info whould be appreciated.



J-

 

[Dkevdog]

I just went down to my local electronics store, bought a couple of fuse distribution centers, one constant 12v and the other switched (via relay) 12v. 30amps per center. Cheap and easy to do.



The painless wire kits are pretty nice though. I'd say I spent half as much and have more than I'll need. You can always run a larger distribution panel if you need to for higher amp needs.



Kev

 

[Loren]

J,



I’m using the Painless Wiring unit that Geno’s sells. I like it a lot.



If you go with the Painless Wiring unit, I don’t think you have any choice on how many switched/unswitched circuits you get. It comes with 4 switched and 3 unswitched. I have used three of the switched circuits and only one of the unswitched ones. I see why some drivers install two of these boxes. It’s easy to run out of circuits if you like lots of electrical accessories.



The only thing I am running on my constant-hot circuit is the auxiliary (pusher) fuel pump. It has its own relay controlled by the power to the engine-mounted lift pump, so I’m not worried about it staying on and running the battery down. You definitely wouldn’t want to put an air horn compressor, for example, on a constant-hot circuit, because an air leak would drain your batteries. In fact, the way I learned about the air leak in my air horn system was because every time I turned the key on, the air horn compressor would run. If you can get one where all the circuits are switched with the ignition, I think you’ll find that to be more versatile.



It’s an easy installation job and the box is well made. I don’t remember if the instructions were good, but you can get plenty of help here on the web site.



If you plan to install more than one accessory that requires a power source, this is the way to go. It’s easier on the truck’s system and you don’t risk overloading any existing circuits.



One last thing. Aren’t the PowerVision mirrors powered and controlled by the truck’s own mirror wiring? I was thinking of getting a pair of those someday but I sure don’t need ANOTHER accessory that needs a wire.



Loren

 

[JCyrbok]

Powervision mirrors

Loren



My truck had a short in the stock wiring for the mirrors from the factory. I had the manuel tow mirrors stock and added the power mirrors about 6 months ago. I was un able to trace the short in the fatory mirror wiring so I had to run the seperate wire harness for my controls, otherwise the powervison mirrors are a direct plug and play type thing. RIght now I take the power from the fuse block in the kicker panel from a fuse tap but want something better quality and better looking. Have another tap for my gauages too.



hope this helps



J-