AWWW $#!t!!!!

[JVanvuren]

Well, it shouldn't be too tough to re-wire your rig to eliminate the PCM (if that's your current problem).



The KSB, grid heaters, etc can all be run manually with relays. The biggest drawback is you'd have to run your overdrive in auto trannies (I forget if your truck is auto or not) manually as well.



I would start by checking the fusible links... not just visually, but with a test light, downstream of the link



John

 

[sparks57]

I'm thinking it's a fusable link.



So I can eliminate the PCM? I have a 5-speed... would I loose anything?

 

[CGauthier]

Jeez bro that must be driving you nuts! I no if that happened to me tha first thing i'd do is jump over the neighbors fence and shoot his dog then buy a case of beer I forget who it was that said it, but I'm almost starting to think i dont wanna leave tha driveway.....

 

[sparks57]

Yeah, this sucks! I have to wait until morning now so I can figure out what the hell is going on!

 

[JVanvuren]

Originally posted by CB_Parker

I'm thinking it's a fusable link.



So I can eliminate the PCM? I have a 5-speed... would I loose anything?

I *think* that on a 5-speed truck, the only thing the PCM does is regulate the grid heaters and maybe something with the cruise control. However, I really don't know this for sure as I've never had problems with the PCM and my current truck doesn't have one



Maybe somebody a little more knowledgeable will chime in here



John

 

[dpuckett]

The voltage regulator is PCM controlled on the intercooled trucks. The KSB, intake heaters, etc, can be controlled without the PCM- my truck doesnt have one. (jealous, now, aintcha Chris?) I would bet on a blown fusible link, but since you let the smoke out of the PCM, it may be bad as well. I agree with JVanvuren- the 98s have MUCH more electronic crap in them. I'll look up in my Chilton book about the PCM harness, and what all goes through it. I see no reason you couldnt bypass everything, then install a manual volt regulator. Check your grounds, and make sure it's all on the up and up.



EC Jay, you forgot to mention the beer!!! CB, if you hafta, you can run a jumper wire from the + batt terminal to the pump solenoid. You'll have to disconnect it when you shut it off, though. I ran for a month in my 93 like that before I got it fixed.



Daniel

 

[sparks57]

No, no... I don't know if the smoke came from there or it just stinks in that corner because that's where the smoke squeezed the the engine compartment at.



Whatever it was, it was definately closer to the front, and around the battery area. I think.



I still need to find that big fuse, to see if it's blown.

 

[dpuckett]

THe fusible links are on the inner fender, but I think there may be one or two toward the battery. been a while since I looked under the hood of the 93 I had.



Daniel

 

[sparks57]

Hmm... if someone could maybe scan and e-mail me a diagram of the fuseable links and the major 140amp fuse?

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

"... . The proper thought process here is to go older... " WHAT ARE YOU THINKING... ... OH, you mean trucks... sorry, never mind...



PB.



hmmm..... has anyone considered the alternative to 'not getting older'... . ...

 

[cotto]

I had the same problem. One day I drove my truck to pick up a buddy, shut the truck off, we jumped in and tried to turn her over and she wouldn’t start. We saw smoke coming from the left front as well. Everything else worked fine, but she just wouldn’t even click. I looked for fusible links or anything else that looked melted. Then I pulled the starter to have it tested (it was fine). I finally took a closer look at the positive battery cable and found that there was a wire (about 12-14 gauge) spirally taped to the main battery cable that goes to the starter (I don’t know this was done by the factory or by the previous owner). The wire combo had been resting against the frame and slowly worn a pin hole through the insulation of the small wire. (The small wire attaches to the starter and to a two-wire wiring harness about 6” off the battery (the harness melted a little as well)) After replacing and retaping the wire to the cable she still didn’t start. I tracked the problem back to the starter relay (a 1”x1”x1” black cube on the driver side fender). Using a basic test light, I found no juice coming through when the key was in the start position. I carefully pried the relay out of the housing and found that the short had melted a tiny piece a plastic between the points which kept the them from moving freely. I removed the plastic, put the relay back together and I was back on the road. (it might be easier to spring for the $15 relay). Long process that would have been fairly quick if I had known what to look for in the beginning. Hope this helps.



Good Luck

 

[TSuter]

"You DIDN"T let the smoke outta THAT box did ya?"



You do of course realize that all electronics work off of smoke don't you? Think about it, how many circuits have you seen work after letting the smoke out? The real bear is trying to get the smoke back in!!

 

[1stgen4evr]

PCM

Your PCM also enables the air conditioning when other input conditions are met. Air function can be wired around the PCM. You would have to go to the 89 setup for eliminating the PCM.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[CGauthier]

Hmmm is the pcm really that bad? Eastwood Dodge out here told me they would put one in for me for $400, and remember thats Canadian funds, so probably $20 or so for you guys Seriously tho, that's what they told me. Are they bad for fokkin up? I wouldn't think a unit like that would ever kill itself, I mean, how often does a PC kill itself? One time i was working in the rain with my calculator in one of my front pockets and cigarrettes in the other front pocket, both were pretty dam wet. My cigs were finished but my calculator still works, NOW... a calculator is not at all designed for tha elements; i figgur if they blow up on us regularly i think itz on purpose But don't take my word for it, i'm retarted Lol

 

[dpuckett]

PCMs arent "known" for blowing up like, say, TPSs or Getrags, but they do have their fair share of failures- voltage regulator, A/C, OD controls, etc, etc. To someone as jumpy as some kids here (not mentioning any names, but he's been bored stiff this week- no classes, gf 400mi away... ), it may be worth it. to the rest of us used to working on this cr@p, maybe not.



Daniel

 

[sparks57]

My PCM is fine because my grid heaters are cycling, and the AC works...



The wiring that blew was to the grid heater, but it's working...

 

[CGauthier]

Originally posted by dpuckett

To someone as jumpy as some kids here (not mentioning any names, but he's been bored stiff this week- no classes, gf 400mi away... ), it may be worth it. to the rest of us used to working on this cr@p, maybe not.



Daniel

Lol I have no idea who you're talking about See you tonite bro, and i'm sure you'll be in a good mood! Stay positive dude... .