2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Axel Swap

[NIsaacs]

Like JM says, the oem style is a good one if it has it, if not that's what I would get. Dana axles are very complex, so if you are not familiar with them you might need help with the bearings. Is it the same ratio as your front?

Nick

 

[HHhuntitall]

Sorry, nevermind. I guess what I said only applies to 2500 gassers.

Nope, be careful, there are a handful of 3500 gasser trucks that had a D44 front axle, but only in '94 and '95 that I've seen. If they appear identical, they should work. Look on the inspection plate for a tag with gear ratio and axle ID. Should also have a 60 cast into it on the back, lower, inside differential housing, or 44.... The 60 is quite a bit larger.

But if your gear ratio is the same as the rear you want to use, I'd just put the bolt on dually adapters on it from the other front axle and keep your good brakes and non-leaking axle tube. The rear will bolt up without any problems, unless it is a Cab-Chassis as mentioned above, and the driveshaft needing to be a bit shorter. If you have an extended cab truck, you might can make it work by cheating the carrier bearing forward 1/2" to an inch, inserting the front shaft into the transfer case a bit further, and sliding the slip yoke together a bit more. BUT, be sure you make sure it won't bottom out!! That can destroy your transfer case.

The next thing to check is the U-joint size in the donor/dually rear end. If the truck is a gasser, it should have the smaller U-joint like your auto truck. But if a standard, it CAN have the larger U-joint, and you'll have to source a yoke to work with it.....

 

[NIsaacs]

Nope, be careful, there are a handful of 3500 gasser trucks that had a D44 front axle, but only in '94 and '95 that I've seen.

I disagree. Keep in mind all 2nd gen 3500's are duallys , no SRW. There were some light duty 2500's (94-97) that did use the D44, I think they were in the GVW range of 7500-7700. The Cummins and V-10 2500's had a GVW of 8800, all 3500 pickups were 10,500-11,000.

Nick

 

[rickybobby]

I appreciate all the feed back but its the D80 dually rear that I'm interested in swapping. Nick said all I need is the spacers off the D60 dually to put on my D60. JM what is the life expectancy on a power loc diff? I'm sure this truck has at least 150,000 miles on it. Does it have clutches? I like the ARB too and having on board air.

 

[JMcCoy]

How long a Power Loc lasts depends on a few things, but they are very durable and have a lot of holding power. If you decide to rebuild it, get the steel clutches. They hold better and last longer. If it only has around 150,000 miles on it, and the gears are right, I would slap it in and put some new fluid in it and run. Rear axles rarely fail without warning. A bearing or gears will usually howl or something will before it lets go. If you need to take it apart for some reason, then I would pay the extra for a complete rebuild. I really like the ARB locker in the rear, but it is much more complicated, and expensive, then a stand alone posi unit. I installed the air pump, ran all the lines, and installed the power switches, and it still cost me $2500.

Locker $1,100
ARB compressor $520 (ARB compressor comes with wire harness and makes for a super nice install)
Master rebuild kit $500 (does not include outer bearings)
Install $350 (money well spent).
Air tank ($50)

All that said, I really like the ARB and like having on board air. Of course you don't need the locker to have air. Unless you plan on doing some serious off road, I don't know if it's worth the cost. That depends on what you do with it. This is my camping/"adventure rig," so I wanted the extra strength and traction. I installed an ARB in the front, but have yet to hook up the air lines. Hope this helps.

 

[rickybobby]

Thank JM, all info helps with getting the swap done right the first time. Think I'm going to have a pro do the rebuild.