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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Axel Woes...

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission sunglass holder tab broke off

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) output shaft broke

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My rear axel started to howell. I have taken it to a local repair shop and they have said the whole axel needs replacing. They said the carrier wore out the bearings and axel housing. Ouch don’t know the costs as of yet but does anyone know of a good axel shop in CALI near Sacramento? Thanks for the info.
 
You do need to find a true gear shop. The axle tubes can be cut with a special axle tube cutter to true it back up which only takes about a half an hour to do "I used to work in a gear shop for a few years". The Dana 70 and 80 diffs are known for doing that, it is not a serious thing and absolutely doesn't require a total axle replacement. You need to find someone who knows what they are talking about because the shop that is trying to tell you to replace the whole axle doesn't have a clue.
 
Whoa, tell me more about what happens to these axles. I'm at 220K on my 96, and would liek to be prepared for rear end troubles if I should epxect them eventually.

James, this might be an opportunity to swap out the rear for one with disk brakes. I don't know how much they were going to charge you, but if you can pick up an entire rear and do the swap yourself, you might end up happier.





Chris
 
James

You can repair it for about a third of what a complete axle swap will run. Disc brake axles sell for around 1100-1200 complete and you will probably still have to refresh it for another 300-500.



All you should need is a bearing kit and to have the tubes cut true. If the gear set is still good at a reputable gear shop it shouldn't be much more than 500-600 parts and labor. Cheaper if you shop around for a bearing kit. Start to finish usually takes me around 5-6 hours to completely rebearing and set up a Dana 70-80.



Stamey



You should at minimum pull the cover and pull the carrier and check the carrier bearings. You are at about due for a thourough inspection at that milage. What happens is that as things wear it causes a loose preload on the carrier bearings and causes the races to move under the caps and loosens up and begins to spin with the bearing and thus wears the axle tubes or inside area of the pumpkin where the back face of the race rides against it.



Another trick of the trade to tighten up the race is to take a couple thousanths off the face "Flat surface" of the race caps on a mill or a poormans mill "table Belt sander". Then put retaining compound in the cap and race to help lock it.
 
OK, forgive my lack of diff knowledge, but how will I be able to tell of the races can move, or check the preload on the carrier bearings? The only way Wouldn't the pinion have to be out of the housing so its preload doesn't affect the preload measrement of the carrier bearings? And even then, how would the preload be measured?



Thanks,

Chris
 
Chris



An easy check for Preload of the carrier is measured in side to side movement. You can stick a bar in between the housing and carrier and you shouldn't feel or see side to side movement. At your milage I would pop the axles out and then pull the caps and pop the carrier out and physically inspect the races and bearings. You shouldn't have to mess with the pinion unless there is a lot of metal in it or if the carrier bearings/races have failed.
 
Thanks for the replys. My internet has been down and I was not able to get to see the posts before I purchased a used rearend for $850. 00. AAA Dodge Trucks & Vans, Sacramento. If I would have read the posts sooner I would have upgraded the Read axel to disk brakes. Can I still swap the Drum for Disk? And what improvements would that be for me to have? For your info the shop wanted $2725 to replace. Also thanks for the number I will call them and have them check the work that I did on the replacement axel to make sure that it is correct before I put it back under the truck. Also why would this have happened?

I guess this is what I get for not knowing enough. I had just replaced the spider gears and clutch pack more than 2 years ago and noticed the groves in the raceway when I removed the carrier but thought nothing of it because I thought that was the design. DUMB ME... I will never make that mistake again.

#@$%!:{
 
Aftermarket disc upgrade kits go for around 7 - $800 - ouch! Still hating my rear drums but not 7 - $800 worth - when the rear starts to go then I'll look for an 01. 5 - 02 D80 w/LS unit. Blasted peg leg of mine . . .
 
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