Axle bearing adjustment question

[tmacc]

I have a 10k utility trailer. I have tried adjusting the axle bearing by snugging the castle nut down and backing it off a 1/4 turn. When I do this there is play in the bearings. I had a guy at the local trailer/cap place tell me the bearings need replacing. The farmer next door says to just lightly snug the nut till there isn't any play. I've tried this and there is still a little play when I line up the nut w/ the hole for the pin. There is no roughness in the bearings. I've got to get this thing figured out soon, because on the 17th I have to drive my diesel tractor, ladders, and other tools from MD to UT. About 2000 miles. So that only gives me a week to get things in order. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[NIsaacs]

If the bearings are good and have grease, snug them up till you have no play, then if the cotter pin will not fit, back them off until it will. If they are a little loose it will be ok. A slightly loose bearing will last forever, a tight one will get hot and sieze up.





"NICK"

 

[JMetzger]

I got this from my Dexter service manual.

Rotate the hub assembly & tighten to 50 lbs-ft (12 in wrench with full hand force)

Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. DO NOT ROTATE THE HUB

Finger tighten the spindle nut untill just sung

Back spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation lines up with cotter pin hole.

Hope this helps you . This is the way I do my travel trailer & have over 100,000 on it & have never had a bearing failure.

 

[JMetzger]

I forgot to mention that there will be a slight loosness in the bearing but that is OK.

 

[CPG]

Permissible side play of any roller bearing is . 010 of an inch. The castle nut holes are not always accurate. Pre-loading is a must.



Chuck

 

[NIsaacs]

Permissible side play of any roller bearing is . 010 of an inch. The castle nut holes are not always accurate. Pre-loading is a must.



Chuck

. 010 of an inch at the bearing, is a bunch at the hub/drum. I agree with the pre-load for most tapered roller bearings, however if it was so important for a wheel bearing, I think the adjustment would be more precise. I stand on my original post.





"NICK"

 

[Briman]

Loose is certainly better than tight. If you had the time you could try different setting on seperate wheels on your trailer and you will also see how the differences in tightness effect the amount of heat produced. Since the cotter pin holes are not too precise it is best to err on the loose side (did I say that already ).

 

[CPG]

Nick, I was not trying to imply that the micrometer clearance was the only way to know if the bearing is too loose. This is the Dexter axle info. for people that are not sure. Its certanily correct that too tight is not the way to go. Had a friend that re-drilled his castle nuts on his trailer axles to eliminate no play resulting in failed wheel bearings. Certanily correct with the other threads here that a little loose is better than tight.

Was a HD truck mechanic for 36 years and know the hub/drum details.



Chuck

 

[NIsaacs]

Chuck, I am sorry if I come off a little abrupt on my last post. I agree and respect your knowledge and post's. Bearing adjustment's are highly misunderstood for the most part. In a transmission or rear axle with oil cooling and lubrication, pre-load is a must. Other pieces and parts depend on the bearings doing their part. Even in wheel bearings on heavy duty trucks or trailers with lotsa weight and lotsa miles, preload is good. They also use oil hubs for the most part and use double nuts for a precise adjustment.



I think all I was trying to say is, that on a light duty, simple grease type axle, with a junky adjustment system, loose was ok and too tight was bad. Sometimes you can switch nuts from axle to axle and get a better adjustment. Or as your friend did and drill more holes in the axle or nut.



Thank you for your feed back!





"NICK"

 

[RNixon]

FWIW, I have driven various vehicles well over 1 million miles, all the while using the wheel bearing adjustment method from Dexter posted above. In all that driving, I have never had a bearing failure.



Recently I have come to prefer full-synthetic wheel bearing grease, especially for heavily-loaded RV wheel bearings.

 

[CPG]

Nick, just read your profile. My father and his brother's had ranches in Absorakee Mnt. I can see why you live in Az. now. They used to tell me about the winters they had in the early years. 20&30 degrees below zero. They finally moved south too. I'm in my late 70's now and would never live up there at my age now.

You loggers are something else. I do not know which is worse, working on that "iron" or driveing it. No offense received here, just good to have the real experience of people on some topics. That is what is so good about these forums and the people on them.



Chuck

 

[tmacc]

I want to thank you guys. This info has been quite helpfull. It put my mind to rest as far as the trip. My old PSD required preload for the Dana 50 front axle as well. The thought of scrambling around to get bearing and get them installed was a might worrisome to say the least.