2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Axle Nut Adjustment Socket

[BMelhuish]

I'm having some issues on finding the right tool. I have 1998. 5 3500 dually with a Dana 80 rear end. The Crysler tool number for this socket is DD-1241-JD. I cannot find a description or complete photos of this tool. Is is a hex or spanner type socket? All of the information that I was able to find indicated that folks were using a 2 9/16" hex type spindle nut socket. As cheap as those are I took a chance that it was the right size and would take the torque necessary to preload the hub bearings. I'd rather have the right tool, but none of the regular parts store cross reference to the Crysler tool number. Photos, description, thoughts on just using the spindle nut socket?



Thanks.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I have been using the stamped 2-9/16 socket for years. On some hubs, it is tight so I ground the outside as needed. Be sure to remove the retaining clip in the groove of the spindle.

 

[GAmes]

When I pulled the hubs off my D-80 I couldn't install the socket and spent half a day looking for one that would work. It turned out one of the thin metal spacers was stuck to the axle. With it removed the socket worked great.

 

[BMelhuish]

I performed this maintenence this weekend. The Crysler tool (for the Dana 80) has got to be a type of hex socket. I didn't have any issues with the Napa 2 9/16 spindle nut socket. It was a bit sloppy on the nut, but it worked nonetheless. I honestly believe that a 2 1/2" socket would work. but frankly, it wasn't worth the effort to measure the nut.



This maintenence is not in the schedule of regular maintenence. I have owned this truck since new, and I do not recall that anyone anywhere has either done this job or recommended that it be done. I only recently went back to doing my own work and discovered this maintenence. I found it when I read the maintenence section of the Owner's Manual. Imagine that! I plan to do this on the same schedule as the front wheel bearings.



It's a fairly straight forward job that ought to get more attention.

 

[S.Morris]

Be careful with the preload... ... ..... I just recently had to replace hub bearings on the rear of a D80 MY2000. This truck had a R&P replacement because of tooth failure on ring gear. Because of time constraints the job was done at our Auto Transmission Shop.

Fast forward 10000+/- miles while doing balljoint replacement and other needed maintenance to include leaking rear seal.

On inspection , find bearing preload seems tight, on removal find bearings going through case hardening.



Trans shop say they followed preload spec procedure by the book.



I replaced bearings races seal AND $$ Nut. Do preload by the book. Preload seems way to much... ... . back off to approx 3 times recommended nut travel to what Feels right and run it. After a road run and bearing temp check all is as it should be. If I would have left as Trans Shop did, I am positive a repeat failure would have resulted.



Just a heads up, to keep in mind.

 

[BMelhuish]

Little Joe:

I know what you mean. Haynes states to torque the axle nut to 120-140 lbs and back the nut off a 1/3 of a turn. Crysler SM states to torque the axle nut to 120-160 lbs and back the nut off an 1/8 of turn. Haynes states that should give you . 001 ot . 010 end play. Crysler SM states nothing at all. I split the difference and torqued to 140 lbs and backed the nut off 1/4 -1/3 of a turn. Either way the axle nut is on there fairly tight and the tolerances are next to nothing. I was wondering whether to "prime" the hub with some oil would have been a good idea.

I'm not new to turning a wrench, but I never worked on diesels or these big differentials. I simply lack the experience to do anything other than follow the manual on this issue. Thanks for the advice.

 

[BDaugherty]

i typically 'prime' the hubs by jacking up one side and then the other to allow oil to run from the diff into the hubs and then check the oil level in the diff one last time.

 

[Sticks]

Specs? What are those?

All the ones I've done (thousands), I tighten to the point where I can barely turn the wheel/hub, back off 1 full turn, whack the hub with a 8# hammer, then snug back up until I get 1ish revolution from a "by the hand" spin.

Trick is to rotate the hub/wheel while you are tightening the axle nut.

 

[BMelhuish]

I guess I primed the hub by default. I did one side at a time so that I would not loose much oil. As to not using specs I don't have the experience to do it any other way. I wouldn't recommend that anyone else do it by feel unless they have a lot of experience to have the confidence that they are doing it correctly. Thanks for the advice.