2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Axle Nut torque

[SMorneau]

Manual says tighten to 120-140 ft-lbs and back off "1/8 turn (120 degrees). 1/8 turn does not equal 120 degrees! The manual goes on to further clarify that I should have . 001-. 010" of end play. Now I have an indicator but no good way to mount it to check endplay.



A search of the forums indicates TDR members also use 1/8 turn or 120 degrees. Yes people are suggesting both numbers.



So which is it? 120 degrees or 1/8 turn?



I went with 120 degrees because 1/8 gave me no detectable end play and I was told long ago wheel bearings should have some play. 120 degrees I could "feel" a little play like I get on my trailer bearings when I do them. Is there any advantage to going tight?



Let me have some opinions here, I don't want to expose myself to that stinky lube again if I don't have too.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The 1997 manual says torque to 120-140 ft lb and thn back off 1/8 turn. I wouldn't back off more than 1/6 turn (1 corner or flat worth); 1/3 turn (120 deg) is a lot!

 

[John]

Originally posted by SMorneau

I went with 120 degrees because 1/8 gave me no detectable end play and I was told long ago wheel bearings should have some play. 120 degrees I could "feel" a little play like I get on my trailer bearings when I do them. Is there any advantage to going tight?

I respectively disagree with what you were "told long ago. " I believe (and practice) you want the bearing to be juuust tight enough to exhibit NO end play then tighten it a little bit more (this varies on application, the bearing, type of lubrication etc. ) to preload it... not too much, just a little bit.



I'm assuming you are asking about the torque of the rear axle nut (the front axle nut is a straight forward deal... torque to such and such spec. , further tighten castle nut [IF reqd. ] until cotter pin can be installed).



BTW, I'm currently doing an EGR front and rear (disc brake) upgrade to my Ram. EGR states to reinstall the rear axle nut with the aid of a dial indicator... remove all play from the bearing and tighten the nut a little further until the locating piece (key actually) can be fitted between the cutout in the nut and the key-way in the axle.

 

[muskyman]

I TRIED THE 1/8 TURN AND IT SEEMED TO LOOSE ENDED UP USING THE DIAL INDICATOR . . 001 - . 0015 COLD

 

[SMorneau]

Thanks

Thanks for the feedback. I will drive the VW tomorrow and readjust them tomorrow night.



Damn smelly stuff... even worse now with the limited slip additive!

 

[grtescpa]

Originally posted by SMorneau

Manual says tighten to 120-140 ft-lbs and back off "1/8 turn (120 degrees). 1/8 turn does not equal 120 degrees! The manual goes on to further clarify that I should have . 001-. 010" of end play. Now I have an indicator but no good way to mount it to check endplay.



A search of the forums indicates TDR members also use 1/8 turn or 120 degrees. Yes people are suggesting both numbers.



So which is it? 120 degrees or 1/8 turn?



I went with 120 degrees because 1/8 gave me no detectable end play and I was told long ago wheel bearings should have some play. 120 degrees I could "feel" a little play like I get on my trailer bearings when I do them. Is there any advantage to going tight?



Let me have some opinions here, I don't want to expose myself to that stinky lube again if I don't have too.

This is what I was taught during my stay at an aviation school. If the bearing was removed cleaned and re-packed, you are suppose to tighten the axle nut down till you feel slight friction on the bearing. Spin the wheel a few times then back off on the nut to the point where you start to get play. Then tighten forward again about 1/16th. There should be no play. This is the pre-load method to seat the bearing in the race. I have done this many many times with all types of axles. Never had a problem or pre-mature bearing failure. Aslo for a final note. I have always used a special type of greese called Aeroshell ANG-5a. Its used on sea planes. Works great on anything else!!

 

[John]

grtescpa, after re-reading my post I see that I forgot to state (in the first paragraph) that the bearing should first be "over tightened" to allow proper seating of the bearing to the race before proceding. As I have done this many, many, times before I forgot to add this "assumed" pre-requisite.