axle ratio change cost

[thepipe1]

Hi, All:



With 15,000 miles on my new (used) rig, I've decided that the 4. 10 gears have to go. Does anyone know a fair price for labor here in NJ to switch over both axles to 3. 54? Anyone switch the other way and have a set of 3. 54's sitting around? TIA





'01 ETH/DEE QC 4X4, bone stock for now...

 

[RustyJC]

If this swap gets very expensive, you might want to consider a U. S. Gear 20% overdrive - that would get you the equivalent of 3. 28:1 axle ratios. That's the route we'll probably take - the 4. 10's are great for towing a heavy 5ver, but just too busy for unloaded interstate running.



JM2CW



Rusty

 

[thepipe1]

Aftermarket Overdrive Units

Hi Rusty:



I considered this type of fix but discounted it because:



1) The number of problems reported by many on this site (and even one of the installation centers I called!),

2) Using it adds another level of complexity to driving,

3) It will bollix up the speedometer/odometer,

4) Only usable in 2-wheel drive.



I like the 3. 54 switch because:



1) Motor no longer screaming at highway speeds,

2) Mileage will probably improve,

3) Usable in 2- or 4-wheel drive,

4) Can actually use first gear!

 

[Todd T]

If you can get a couple housings out of a bone yard, you might be money ahead. that way you can go through them before installing them and replace and repair anything + you would have a spare set once you swapped out yours.

 

[SnoKing]

Maybe you should try to find someone that tows with the 3. 56's and feels that they made a big mistake. I will trade the slower bobtail freeway speeds for the way my CTD tows the 5er with the 4. 10's. I can run 63 MPH in OD with the 5er at around 2000 RPMs, which is about right to keep TC well locked up. In 3 gear locked up TC, I can pull the big mountain passes up to over 60 MPH at higher RPMs. SNOKING

 

[DGFoster]

4.10

I would never change out the 4. 10 for the 3. 54

 

[RKelly]

Would going with a taller tire (like a 33") be enough of a change ???

just a thought

 

[KatDiesel]

Might wanna consider finding a RAM owner that has auto w/3. 54 and drive it! You might be surprised at how much you actually like the 4. 10 but jsut don't know it



I'm happy with mine... ...

 

[Shovelhead]

I drove both before buying my 3500.



I bought the 4:10s cuz the 3:54s (unBOMBed of course) seemed too slow out of the hole to me.



Excellent advice from Kat, drive a 3:54 before you decide.

 

[Bad340fish]

Why Not?

If your going to lay down the cash for the gear change why not go with a 3. 73. That gets you the best of both worlds. As far as I know its available for the Dana Series axles.

Clark

 

[Big White Beast]

Mine had the 4:10's...........

I do a fair mix of freeway and town driving with a 10K Lb. truck. I liked the power out of the hole with the 4:10's but hated the screaming on the freeway. I found someone who wanted to swap for their 3:54's. I loved those on the freeway but hated it around town. No milage change from one to the other. I suppose what I gained on one end I lost on the other.



Finally got tired of it and spent the cash for the 3:73 gear set. WOW I'm in heaven now. Good out of the hole power and cruises the freeway at 75 MPH @ 2100 RPM. Seems to have gained some mileage also, too early to really tell as I just had it done. DTT mods go in this weekend and this will be one mean work truck.



This is what I imagined my truck would be like out of the factory. Silly me.



That's my story and I'm sticking to it,



Garrett

 

[Snow man]

I have 4. 10's,I thought i wanted 3. 55's until I drive one with them,I'm glad I got the 4. 10's now. My 12 valve liked the 3. 55's better,but the 24 valve seems to be happier with 4. 10's. Fuek mileage isnt much better with 3. 55's. 4. 10's are the gear to have for pulling,especially with the auto transmission.

 

[SnoKing]

So, the cheapest thing appears to be to put taller tires on what you have. I think I read that speedo can be set in PCM(?) to match tires. Personally I would like an extra OD unit Gear Vendors or US Gear, and keep the 4:10's. SNOKING

 

[GBerry]

DONT DO IT!!!!

I have the 3. 54's with the 265/75/16 and there too tall wish had gotten the 4. 10's and just got 285/75 or even 305's need a wider tire now for the sand and cant find a tire thats wider and not taller!!!! I dont want a higer gear ratio kills too much power now!!! mostly pull a 7x14 tandom axle deck over with 3 quads loaded it only weighs around 2700lb and man you can feel it up the steep hills and around the coast in Oregon WOW dont get me wrong still does a good job !!! I LOVE the truck !!!! but when money permits air lockers and 3. 73 or 4. 10's for sure!!! If I dont get a wild hair and visit the dealer and trade for a dually

KKEEEEPPPP TTHHEEEEE 4. 10'S !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

GuyB

 

[Roger rodbolt]

3.54's are 'm 'm good!

Pipe1,



Now for the dissenting opinion: Go for the 3. 54's!

You have a 6speed and it directly transfers your hp and torque with no slippage. The automatic transmisson guys lose big time until their torque convertor clutch locks up, which is weak and only engages at higher rpms in higher gears under load. The DTT torque convertors are awesome but still are only 90 some odd percent efficient. I've owned both and must say that with a manual trans it is a simple matter to increase rear wheel torque 50% or more at 1600rpm.

If that won't pull the load, downshift to 5th gear which becomes a help with a 3. 54 and is almost a nuisance with 4. 10's. Your 6 speed is geared slower than an auto trans due to the different ratio overdrive, another reason that 4. 10's are slow. If you live/tow in the fast lane and drive a manual transmission, better go for the 3. 54's

 

[thepipe1]

3.54 v 4.10

Hi All:



I think Roger Rodbolt summed it up best: "... if that won't pull the grade, DOWNSHIFT!!" (Emphasis mine).



I see that all those opposed to the switch drive auto's. I understand why this may be impractical if I had that transmission. To enjoy good fuel economy and decreased transmission temps, the TC must be locked. In an auto, especially towing on the highway, 4. 10's fill the bill perfectly.



In my truck, a great deal of power comes on at 1900 RPM's and seems to gradually dissipate by about 2500. At normal highway speeds, 2500 RPM's in 6th gear is 75 MPH... right where I want to be speedwise but at the very end of my motor's kick in the a$$ feeling RPM-wise. I feel it is unwise to be at the upper end of any parameter in normal driving.



Regarding increasing the tire diameter, I thought of it but don't feel the correction will be enough. This truck is comfortable at 45 MPH (approx. 1500 RPM's) in 6th gear. Available power is excellent, even without any BOMB's, and there's no feeling of lugging either the motor or any driveline component. I simply don't want to be in my highest gear around town. The few percent I will gain from a tire diameter increase is not sufficient to correct this.



As far as driving a 3. 54 before I switch... been there done that. My '95 2500 CTD automatic has a 3. 54 axle; the conclusions for the '01 were reached with experience. Further, I had one of the few '90 CTD's with a 3. 07 rear. Now THAT was a perfect ratio for a non-towing truck. Unfortunately it's no longer available, even directly from Dana.



If the $$$ permit, the switch is a done deal. My only reason for posting was to get a feeling of labor cost. Any thoughts on that?



If anyone knows someone who switched the other way and has a set of 3. 54's on hand, have them email me at: -- email address removed -- TIA