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Axle Seal Leak

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Sounds to me like they nicked the seal when they did the ball joints. If they cleaned it off once and it came back then it is not residual fluid in the tubes. Go back and fight with them to get it fixed. It does require removal of the carrier to replace them. Do both of them at the same time if you can,and check for grooves worn on the axle shaft.

As far as how it works,the seals are inboard at the diff housing. There are no bearings to lube between there and the outer wheel bearings,so there is no need to have fluid in the tubes.

One more thing,double check the fluid level,as in some cases if it is overfull it will cause a leak.

Here is a good link on what is involved for seal replacement. http://dieselpowerman. tripod.com/Front%20Axle%20Tech/Front%20Axle%20Tech.htm

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1997 2500 CC 4X4,Auto
 
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Originally posted by Mark Kitchell:
Had new ball joints put in a couple months back, drivers side.

Now every time it sits there's a wet spot a couple inches around under the ball joints -- where the fluid has run out of the axle and dripped down the ball joints. ...

I would say the axle seal is leaking. I just had my ball joints replaced; they did the axle u-joints while they were there. They also noticed the axle drip and suggested I replace the seals whilst the axles were apart, and I agreed; would have been silly to spend all that labor taking it apart again.

The LF hub/bearing was making noise, so they installed a new one of those as well. Now, the front end should be good for another 100K miles. (Though I expect the tie rod ends to last only another 30K-40K miles, but they're minor. ) Finally, the front brakes needed doing, so the rotors were turned and NAPA pads installed.

They also aligned the front end. They gave me zero toe, zero camber on the left and +1/4 camber on the right. The truck tracks real well and has minimal wander/drift. There is no detectable brake pull. Yes, up to 10K-20K miles ago, I did have annoying brake pull, but no longer.

Fest3er
 
My passenger side seal also leaked after replacing the u-joints. I bought the seal and was all set to replace it but it stopped leaking, oil level is fine. That was three years ago, it hasn't leaked since, seal is in the glove box. You might want to let it go for awhile and see what happens.
 
the seals are at the pumpkin , there is no bearings at the end of the axle tube , the bearing is in the spindle , the axles just move around a bit at the end , if there is a seal there its a dust seal . i don't have my manual handy , but thats how it was on my 85 ramcharger , i had manual hubs and left them unlocked so nothing was turning while the axle was lo on fluid , which was all the time , thats only negative about the solid axle , the leaks , part of the reason i think GM and Ford went to the independant front suspension . #ad
 
Had new ball joints put in a couple months back, drivers side.

Now every time it sits there's a wet spot a couple inches around under the ball joints -- where the fluid has run out of the axle and dripped down the ball joints.

The shop that did the install keeps telling me it's left over fluid in the axle tube and the seals are fine #ad
What's your opinion? The FIFTH time into the shop they pulled the axle, cleaned out the tube, put it back in, it still drips and they still say it isn't leaking!

I think they're hoping I go away.

SO: how does the axle seal work (Front, 4wd)? They're telling me it seals at the pumpkin. I always thought the fluid ran down into the tubes to help lube bearings, etc. What's the real deal? If it is supposed to run into the tubes those morons are hoping I'm too stupid to realize when it stops leaking it's because I'm out of differential fluid! Actually, that's what they're hoping regardless.


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Big MAK
98. 5 ISB 5spd 4x4 Quad Cab 3500, 275s and Original PowerMax
A "WARRANTY FREE" ZONE
https://www.turbodieseltrucks.com
 
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