2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Axle Shaft bolts Shearing off- 97 1ton dually

[Dave M]

Originally posted by CChaney

Pack the bearings with grease it takes a little while to get the gear oil out to the bearings and you will beglad you packed them.

It cant hurt and the spindle is part of your housing so if you fry a bearing you also bought a new rear end.

I know the bearing are lubed by the rear end fluid but it can't hurt to add grease as you suggest. I was going th pour rear end lube over the bearings but I'll feel better with a little grease on them. Thanks

 

[willyslover]

then use assembly grease like that used on cams and rod bearings... won't cause any issues then

 

[Dave M]

Originally posted by willyslover

then use assembly grease like that used on cams and rod bearings... won't cause any issues then

Thanks for the advice, I will try to finish job THIS weekend. Thanks to all who posted responses... You guys are great!



Dave

 

[willyslover]

Dave. . just thought of something... . do you have limited slip ?



if you do you might not want grease/assembly lube in there to get mixed on the clutche plates. . may end up with an open diff.

 

[Dave M]

Originally posted by willyslover

Dave. . just thought of something... . do you have limited slip ?



if you do you might not want grease/assembly lube in there to get mixed on the clutche plates. . may end up with an open diff.

Too late. I changed the diff fluid with 80W-90W and 8 oz of limited slip additive. I do have a Dana 80 limited slip diff according to NAPA based on the VIN.



What Dodge model number does the Dana 80 equate to? The Dodge 97 Service Manual lists 3 model axles that are full floating:

Models 248, 267, 286. They don't give a cross ref to Dana. All three models list a wheel bearing nut torque of 120-140 ft-lbs and back off 1/8 turn. A friend of mine says that 120 ft-lbs is too high and will burn out the bearings. The book said 120-140 so I did 130 ft-lbs. What torque do you guys use?



Also when I installed the rear hub oil seals from the inside of the hub, I pressed them flush with the hub housing. If pressed all the way to seat they would go below about 1/2 inch. Do you press them in flush or all the way to seat or does it not matter?



I noticed the axle seal gasket, between the axle flange and the hub housing, had a recessed line on one side and a raised line on the other. Does it matter which way they go? The axle nut torque is 90 ft-lbs. Well, the job is done - thanks all for your help.



Dave

 

[BudW]

You have a Model # 286, which is another name for a Dana 80.



If your truck still has the tag on the inspection cover, give me that number and I can tell you if it is a limited slip or not.



I have most of the Dana codes at my desk.



Bud

 

[DLewis]

Those are torque to yield bolts and over time they all have a tendancy to break. Go to your locak bolt supply house and pick up some hardened stainless allen head bolts and put them on. You won't have the problem again and you will save a bunch of money.

 

[Dave M]

Originally posted by BudW

You have a Model # 286, which is another name for a Dana 80.



If your truck still has the tag on the inspection cover, give me that number and I can tell you if it is a limited slip or not.



I have most of the Dana codes at my desk.



Bud

There is a tag on the diff cover that says "Use limited slip diff lube only". The other tag has these numbers:



52069485 AB S

3 54 605975 2



THe VIN is 3B7MF33D1VM589628. NAPA said the last 6 digits indicated a Dana 80 rear end. Also, I'm curious about the torque on the rear wheel bearing nut since my friend believes I over-torqued it by following the book at 120-140 ft-lbs. You guys follow the Dodge manual or is my friend right?



Thanks Bud for your help .



Dave

 

[Dave M]

Originally posted by DLewis

Those are torque to yield bolts and over time they all have a tendancy to break. Go to your locak bolt supply house and pick up some hardened stainless allen head bolts and put them on. You won't have the problem again and you will save a bunch of money.

I'll keep that in mind the next time this happens. The factory bolts came with the red sealant/thread locker (whatever it was)on them so would you put thread locker or sealant on them or not. Anyone have a source for these hardened stainless steel allen head bolts in the Fresno area or Centra Valley/Sacremento area?



Thanks,



Dave