B&W Turnover Ball Hitch??

[RJOL]

I've ordered a B&W Turnover Ball hitch with the Companion 5th wheel adapter. I'm going to order a "Roll BAK" bed cover and need the following question answered. I have looked at the installation manual for this hitch but I don't see what I'm looking for there.



Does the 5th wheel hitch, when installed in the truck, sit below the rails of the bed? I want to be able to close the top, when not towing, and need to make sure the hitch won't interfere with this operation. If the hitch tilts full forward, or aft, while not towing, will the handle interfere with the roll top. Thanks...

 

[Jumbo Jet]

Mine sits below the bed rails.



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[RJOL]

Thanks... That's exactly what I needed to see, and hear. Looks like you have 5-6 inches from the rail to the top of the hitch, and the handle doesn't look like it would stick up too far if the hitch was tilted all the way forward or aft... . Now I can order a new rolling cover...

 

[Tcolesanti]

Do you guys like that Companion fifth wheel, I am looking to upgrade in the future and it is a top candidate.

 

[sootgrinder]

I love my companion. My Dad is envious of the tilt feature of the B&W. He just has a 2-wheel drive truck, and has lifted a tire on the truck putting in to some campgrounds. I am very pleased with the removal of the hitch also.

 

[Tcolesanti]

Thanks Sootgrinder!!

 

[Jumbo Jet]

I have used a Lil' Rocker, the SuperGlide you see in the back of the truck (when I had a SWB) and the Companion.



The Companion does a good job. Just keep a torque wrench around with you if you take it in and out like I do.



Some how I stripped the bolt on the square pin that holds the Companion to the hitch and I 're-engineered' it so that I won't have that problem again.



The plate is heavy towards the front so I added a medium heavy extension spring to hold it level. It would tilt too far forward when I was backing to hook up.



Also, you can, if you weren't paying attention, install the hitch backwards and be too close to your camper when hooking up. I have no idea how that happened, and it won't happen again since I added the spring!! I had to do a nice little repair job on the front hatch door of my trailer with the tailgate at an angle.



The finish is good and the locking mechanism is positive. I was a little reluctant to use the 'jaw' type clamping mechanism, but with a checklist when hooking up, it is nearly foolproof.



I like the two piece assembly/dis-assembly. Either part can be loaded and unloaded by one person.



Get yourself some 1/2" SS nuts and washers to replace the galvanized ones that come with the unit.

 

[RJOL]

Get yourself some 1/2" SS nuts and washers to replace the galvanized ones that come with the unit.

Thanks for the info... How many 1/2" nuts, and are they a standard thread?

 

[Jumbo Jet]

4 - and yes they are standard thread.



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On a new "non-modified" unit, you will need a 1/2" SS bolt that is used to torque down the Companion to the square tube that holds the unit in place (top of picture). You will have to measure the bolt that they send. I think it something around 2-1/2" to 3"

 

[RJOL]

My hitch will be covered or not installed when not in use, but I think I will get the SS nuts and bolt. What is a "new, non modified" unit? Thanks...

 

[Turboman]

Keep in mind that SS bolts and nuts will not take the same amount of stress as mild steel bolts. I have the Companion and I don't believe SS will take the stress put on at the square anchor point. I would like to see a larger bolt going in to the anchor, like 3/4" maybe. Also SS bolts and nuts will not take the use of an impact wrench without some grease or antiseize on the threads. The threads will gall up and the nut will seize , then you can't tighten or remove very easily.

 

[RJOL]

Well. . That's a good point, and something else to consider...

 

[CUMMINZ]

Sides of companion

Is the sides of the companion at the bottom in anyway connected to the frame? Or just sit on the bed?

 

[RJOL]

Is the sides of the companion at the bottom in anyway connected to the frame? Or just sit on the bed?

Don't have mine yet, but from what I've seen, and taking a look at the installation instructions, the Companion mounts via a square bar that is inserted in the gooseneck receiver. It is then torqued down, with a bolt at the top of the square bar, which makes it tight so it won't move in the bed. If you own one of these, and this is incorrect... please let us know...

 

[ropinfool2]

If you look at the picture above you see 4 nuts and 1 bolt (on top). A square bar fits into the gooseneck receiver, the pin is released through it, the top bolt is torqued to 40 ft lbs, then the 4 nuts are tightened (they are u bolts that go around the square bar), don't remember the torque setting. I have one, it has never moved in the bed. One thing to remember, there are two sets of holes in the square bar for the pin, make sure that whatever hole you use the top bolt does not bottom out on the hitch, if it does then it will move all over (don't ask me how I know that). The only problem I foresee is that the ubolt nuts are nylocs and will need to be replaced as the locking ability wears out (technically they are supposed to be replaced every time they are loosened, but not in my world). John

 

[tractorseller]

Also SS bolts and nuts will not take the use of an impact wrench without some grease or antiseize on the threads. The threads will gall up and the nut will seize , then you can't tighten or remove very easily.

And when they do, you better have a cutting torch, a good hacksaw, or some other cutting tool. Not removing "very easy" is an understatement. I have performed the delicate procedure of locking up the wrong nuts with an impact one too many times. Of course, I do this to "save time". The wrenches I should have used in the first place usually end up flying around the shop being chased by a few unrepeatable words as I try to get the nuts off #@$%! :-laf .

 

[CUMMINZ]

lower sides of companion attached

I still don't think my orginal question has been answered. It looks like the only connection point of the companion is at the 2" square turnover ball point. I suppose the bottom sides of the companion simply sit on the bed. :-{}

I do have a problem with this concept but maybe a user can set me straight.

Let's say the only contact point is at the ball connection below. The turnover ball hitch is designed to carry and pull a very large load. That load is fastened low in the bed and right above the steel mounting plate. You add a piece of steel (the companion) that stands maybe 18" above the original steel mounting plate. Seems to me that would act like an 18" lever that could de-stabilize your truck and load. ?? That lever would place a lot of extra load on the 2" square mounting plate. I am sure the maker has thought out very closely the design.

 

[tpardini]

I Read all this info on the 5er set up and it sure looks like alot of work and maintence.

Being A goose neck guy ,Ive have A friend who changed his 5er to A goose neck style

at the trailer side. Iam not sure what the disadvantage of this set up would be but it is sure A simple system,just my 2cents.

 

[DIESELMAN]

CUMMINZ - You are right, sort of. The extended lever does result in about 1. 4:1 mechanical leverage at the joint, reducing the weight pulling ability by about 40%, from 30,000 to 18,000. The true limiting factors are the side plate bolts shear rating to the uprights, there are plenty of them, the front member of the mount in contact with the square post, its bending moment between the sides, and the tensile strength of the U Bolts, these are the most limited, but only while stopping. All of these should make for a 18,000 lb conservative rating.



The bolt in the top of the square, seats the hitch down on the bed, and that is what limits the pin weight. That weight is divided over the contact area of the base of the hitch rails in contact with the bed.



Always make sure the top bolt is tightened to spec, no less, the hitch may move, and no more, it reduces the pin weight by pre-loading the bed and hitch frame rails.



You should never replace non stainless bolts and nuts with stainless. They do not have the same resistance to shear, have lower tensile strength, and are more susceptible to galling and failure.



And if you want to feel real tough, you can break up to a 3/8" Grade 5 stainless bolt with a 1' wrench bar and 80 pounds of force, it'll twist right in two.



Jumbojet - How did you attach your 'Chicken Bar' ?

 

[RustyJC]

I Read all this info on the 5er set up and it sure looks like alot of work and maintence.

Being A goose neck guy ,Ive have A friend who changed his 5er to A goose neck style

at the trailer side. Iam not sure what the disadvantage of this set up would be but it is sure A simple system,just my 2cents.

The disadvantage is that the additional moment arm of the gooseneck adapter can tear (and has torn) the pinbox out of the 5th wheel frame. 5th wheel trailers are not designed to function as gooseneck trailers. Do a search on "gooseneck adapters" for lots of reading on this subject.



Rusty