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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) B1 turbo results to date

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BrassMonkey,

There are a lot of people running as hot or hotter than Csutton. My SPA gauge doesn't read any higher than 1747°. Unloaded, I'm at 1700+°F in 4 seconds. Either from a dead stop or running down the freeway, doesn't matter. It gets pegged every single day.



193,000 miles and no EGT problems yet!



-Chris
 
i can peg 1600 in 2nd gear and it just keeps climbing from there. i think bill kondalay had both pre and post egt guages on his truck and they would vary up to 600.



jim
 
Originally posted by bigbrassmonkey

Kat me running 1000 post turbo, is less risky than 1800 pre turbo, I am well aware of the difference, but to lazy to change it



I push 45 psi max, usually running in the 30's wot on the streeet





I have to disagree, you stated in your other post you pulled some 20k trailers up 3 to 5 mile grades, vs those of us that run 1600°+ for 15 seconds or less. I would say running 3 to 5 mile grades at 1000° post turbo is more harmful.
 
C Anderson--all tests are with the DDIII's--I took out the 5's awhile ago--again I've hit 1740* with the DDIII's during sled pulls and at least 1650* if not more at WOT on the freeway---I'm keeping everything fair---so I've seen at the very least 100* drop with the same setup(1542*) and it's probably more--I just never kept records for the daily driving/hotrodding, but I do remember hitting 1650*--HX40/16 housing---



Big Brass Monkey--your pyro is post turbo and your box is defueling---please relocate your pyro so you don't end up needing a new engine and your box is defueling twice---well no wonder your EGT's don't go over 1000* post turbo---please don't insult me until your on equal ground---an yes you're probably a lot higher than 1300* pre turbo-and you've put your truck at a lot more risk than mine-good luck... ... . chris
 
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Thanks Chris!!! I thought I read somewhere that you had BD5's now. Spool up in nice, yes? What elevation are you at? (hope I didn't ask you already :confused: )



Other Chris
 
Brandon--the 1000* tape is working greatOo. Oo. thanks... ... :D



C Anderson---sea level---BD5's were removed--they're in my sig, that's where you saw it--they will be back in very soon after I dyno----spool up from top to bottom is very good, way better than the HX40 IMHO--a little less lag on the bottom----chris
 
could only get to 1462* with just the AFE filter laying on the fender--it was 59* out---will try it one more time to see if the weather had some influence--it's been raining today, but was not raining during this test----EZ, EDGE on 3, DDIII's at WOT... ... chris
 
Yup, I was awatchin' ya when alla da smoke and flames was acommin' outta dat big ventilation pipe on da sout-east side a yourn pickumupbob truck:)



Freeway 280 is kinda like our daytona speedway don't you think so?:D
 
Man, I can't believe you guys run those things that hot. :eek: Lawrence capped me off at 1200 post turbo at the drags, but it didn't get past 1050.
 
got to love 280 ---



Keith--you guys got to move that pyro and see what you're a hittin' temp wise pre turbo--I bet you're not too far off from us--unless you got some secrets you are hinding..... chris
 
Oh hale, bountiful one... ... ... .....





obviously your point is no one else is worthy... ... ... .



ps sutton... ... james has the ottomind pyro even further away from the heat , it has been officially bypassed.....



defueling is for the guy in second place
 
BigBrassMonkey,



I will send you a Pyro gauge and Thermocouple so you can install it and see for yourself how much it can vary. ( I will even pay shipping if you will pay to ship it back). I also feel that they should be installed pre Turbo. I have seen large variances from low boost to high boost as well as different turbos.



The practice of installing the Probe Post Turbo is for reading the temperature of the Turbo for knowing when the turbo has cooled down to a safe shutdown. And for the paranoid that are worried about a Thermocoulple breaking and going thru the Turbine housing.



For engine performance data it should be in the exhaust manifold after the runners have combined into the collector area where it can give you a correct / reliable reading of what is going on in the combustion chamber.
 
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Originally posted by bigbrassmonkey

Kat me running 1000 post turbo, is less risky than 1800 pre turbo, I am well aware of the difference, but to lazy to change it



I push 45 psi max, usually running in the 30's wot on the streeet



See this post for a reason why you shouldn't rely on post turbo : Post



Posted by : Forrest



"Pre I found that with the HX35-12, 32psi & post EGT of 950 equated to 1500 pre
 
one quick one.



if it is so important to be pre turbo with the egt probe how do you put it into the manifold



drilling and tapping is easy enough but will that hold? would a proper bung welded in be better? and what about the cast iron shavings that fall into the pipe and get sucked into the turbo do you have to take the turbine loose and suck them out with a shopvac?



maybe I am too green and missed something... sorry for my ignorance in advance

I want to do this so bad but I hesitate
 
Wow, here's an oldie but goodie!



Tapping the manifold is the defacto standard method which is working for too many to count.



Welcome to TDR and good luck to ya!

Bill
 
Might be you people are still happily running your B1b s and would report on performance and optimum peak boost and other helpfull information for folks like me that are on the fence about what sticks we want to run and how to keep cool with them...



I really wnat to run mach 4s and try to dragrace and sled pull in a light class AND of course still be streetable. I THINK that I was told that the b1 likes 40-44 lbs best, Would this be enough to need studs and o rings?
 
the mach 4's and B1 would be a good combo--some guys run even bigger --it's been so long ago that I don't remember peak boost when just using the B1, but for some reason I want to say I got up into the 60lb range with BullyDog 8 injectors--the B1 can handle it---as for orings and studs--I'd do the studs first----one thing to remember is to keep the boost down until your truck is good and warm-like no racing when the water temp is low-this should keep the head gasket happy--not a guarantee, but it's something I abide by---good luck---chris
 
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