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backup light load

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again, a relay is CHEAP insurance. What may work fine for a lifetime for others may melt wires the first time for you. Plus, i use my lights for a longer period than just backing up (i turn them on manually when hooking up the trailer at night for instance). A relay is the safest way to go, especially if you plan on running the lights longer than a few seconds. Cutting the wires is no big deal as long as properly splice them afterwards. I just wouldn't take the chance on a $40K truck just to avoid using a $4 relay.
 
I see a lot more failed b/u switches with extra lamps,not so much wiring failures except right at the swicth



Bob
 
Prairie Dog said:





roll your eyes all you want pal. Instead of being a wiseass, why don't you show me one reputable shop that will install a pair of aftermarket lights without a relay.



I'm just trying to pass on the right way to do things to the guy. I thought that's what this site was about.
 
I rolled my eyes because you seemed to be getting upset just because we have a difference of opinion ~ there seems to be a lot of that here lately. This is just the first time I've been subjected to it. Sorry to have offended you.

I believe a redundant relay isn't needed. I arrive at this decision do to the experience and schooling I have. You have a different opinion based on the same. Either way will work fine and wont result in any heartache.



Your "Pal"

Scotty
 
Prairie Dog said:
I rolled my eyes because you seemed to be getting upset just because we have a difference of opinion ~ there seems to be a lot of that here lately. This is just the first time I've been subjected to it. Sorry to have offended you.

I believe a redundant relay isn't needed. I arrive at this decision do to the experience and schooling I have. You have a different opinion based on the same. Either way will work fine and wont result in any heartache.



Your "Pal"

Scotty



My point only was that unless you know exactly what load the wire you're tapping into can handle, a relay is the smart way to go.



I didn't realize you had 'experience and schooling' as your previous posts only referred to "a friend" and to something you may have remembered right.



I didn't mean any offense either, I was just trying to point out that using a relay when adding accessories is the routine, safe way to go that is recommended by every aftermarket light manufacturer i've ever dealt with (which is a lot).



For all I know, the original poster could be an absolute beginner when it comes to 12volt wiring, so I just wanted him to pass on some "wiring 101" to him.



I'm sure there are instances when you can get away with not using a relay, but untill I see the exact load a harness can handle, I will use a relay and never have to worry about it.
 
Well... I guess I don't mind eating a little crow if it will benefit my TDR brethren.

It turns out the TIPM (totaly intergraded power module) will see these larger lamps as an overload and it will count each time their turned on as an incident. After a specific number of incidents (maybe 250), it will shut down the circuit (all b/u lamps). Then it has to go to a dealer to have the DTC cleared from the TIPM computer, it may even require a reflash. This goes for all the lighting circuits in the 7 pin connector.

Here's the ugly part, you can only clear these codes 5 times before the TIPM has to be replaced @ $300+.

I don't know if this includes the earlier third gens but the 06 is built this way.

Thanks to sag2 for all the great inside info (as usual).



Scotty
 
Prairie Dog said:
Well... I guess I don't mind eating a little crow if it will benefit my TDR brethren.

It turns out the TIPM (totaly intergraded power module) will see these larger lamps as an overload and it will count each time their turned on as an incident. After a specific number of incidents (maybe 250), it will shut down the circuit (all b/u lamps). Then it has to go to a dealer to have the DTC cleared from the TIPM computer, it may even require a reflash. This goes for all the lighting circuits in the 7 pin connector.

Here's the ugly part, you can only clear these codes 5 times before the TIPM has to be replaced @ $300+.

I don't know if this includes the earlier third gens but the 06 is built this way.

Thanks to sag2 for all the great inside info (as usual).



Scotty



Wow, thanks for coming back and admitting this! Takes real character. :cool:



Ryan
 
I purchased the "White Nights", since it works off the trailer harness, I hope it won't effect the TIPM b/u overload count.
 
Bob, the trailer circuit is affected by this. It looks like anything more than a couple of 7 watt lights will cause this problem. I strongly recommend anybody running big lights disconnect them ASAP and rewire using a relay.

Ryan, thanks for the compliment but my wife has made me an expert at admitting when I'm wrong so it comes pretty easy:-laf
 
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Prairie Dog said:
Bob, the trailer circuit is affected by this. It looks like anything more than a couple of 7 watt lights will cause this problem. I strongly recommend anybody running big lights disconnect them ASAP and rewire using a relay.

rbattle, thanks for the compliment but my wife has made me an expert at admitting when I'm wrong so it comes pretty easy:-laf





HMMmmm - it sure seems stupid that trucks with the trailer tow package wouldn't already be covered for the increased power drain as usually normal in RV towing. At least I'm assuming this thread relates to a truck with the tow package...



What am I missing here? :confused:
 
Ya, doesnt make sense to me either and yes it has the tow package.

I cant count how many times I've had junky trailers blow fuses.

One interesting fact, Dodge has a s/w update for any truck built before 3/06 that increases the trailer lighting current allowance from 15 to 20 amps but it does not seem to include b/u lamps.
 
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