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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) bad blowby

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In the last 2000 miles oil consumption has gotten bad. Started with some oil on fender from dipstick. pulled camper hard 1200 miles. Good sized splash on inside and outside fender. Then went on 400 mile trip solo. Really had a gob of oil all over and dripped off frame all over underneath. Put a big tube out of oil fill for additional vent--no oil splashing around but still used 3 qts oil in 1000 miles it's last time out. I'm considering just running as is-with a spare engine sitting on the shelf-in the process of looking for a '94-'98 12v. Will anything work in those years? Plan to change fuel plate anyway so hp rating won't be a big deal, right?

Any ideas on what happened to my engine. Here's some history---'95 3500 purchased year ago @ 235k. Was so beat up obviously maintenance was not followed. Fifth gear quit 500 miles after purchase-oil leak I thought was seal turned out to be infamous KDP. Squirted anti freeze so next it was head gasket time .

Then oil consumption for next 18k about qt/1000-but dripped some. . then put pyro and boost on-8 psi and 1200 deg-how long running like that??? Found leak in pre intercooler hose. Wastegate shot so have been running no gate. Plate moved full forward(stock or????) 4" exh. 15. 5 advanced. Last 15000 miles usually pulling 34'tt 60-70 mph. Been running at max 1200 deg, 38psi 370 hp injectors for 12k. Never been hot for me. . Ideas what happened???What about driving it like this?? Mark
 
How'd you fix the KDP? Some use JB weld or RTV sealer. Then, the bottom of the gear case will break near the vacuum pump, causing another leak. New gear case is the only real fix.

Whatever, you gotta clean it well at a 25 cent car wash and watch for where the oil comes from.
 
The kdp was fixed-all new case-former guy before I got it siliconed it-after I got it it really popped open. I've gotten way to used to washing oilout of engine bay every time truck got washed. .
 
Impossible to tell long distance but I wouldn't keep driving - it sounds like it's gonna' let you down in a big way.
 
Bad turbo?



Is the air filter new or in good shape? Almost sounds like it may have gotten dusted (if not the turbo). When that happens it goes down hill fast. Been there, done that (previous onwer :mad: of the sprayer).
 
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I assume filter OK-a well oiled Amzoil. yellow indicator is now at 10. I've been thinking one cylinder was scored or dusted like you said--dunno, yesterday tried to start it in zero deg. Left radar detector on for week-low battery so barely turned over. If it had a scored piston it shoulda lurched when it hit the bad cylinder-nope, all evenly slow. . :confused: If it was dusted they'd all be even, though. Just got an oil sample kit... send in some oil and see if that'll help diagnose... .
 
That would be a good idea with the oil analysis. Another thought was maybe a bad/broken oil control ring or two. With the air filter, did you grease the sealing edges (assuming it is a drop-in replacement, not a "Ram-Air" cone filter type of kit). I had problems with it not sealing with my K&N and put in a BHAF.
 
Was so beat up obviously maintenance was not followed.

Plate moved full forward(stock or????)

then put pyro and boost on-8 psi and 1200 deg-how long running like that???

I think the PO took his toll on that engine... Running with little maintenance,plate full foward and no gauges. No telling what EGT temps HE was running. . How did the pistons/cylinders look when you yanked the head?
 
I had a truck fix shop put in the gasket-don't remember if they gave me a report on cylinder sides or not-assumedly OK as I'm sure they'd look at the jugs and I shoulda remembered a bad report... ... . Lotsa woulda, coulda, shoulda stuff here, huh!!!:{
 
cylinder

Is it possible to run a leak down test? Seems like I read some where you can also use a water column an a orfice in the breather tube to give an idea of how much blow by is acceptable. There was a write up in a manual on how to do the procedure. good luck jim
 
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