Bad Fuel???

[Treb]

This is a new one for me! I've had my CTD for about 4 years now and I've never gotten bad fuel before. . .



Anybody out there know what kind of symptoms you'd get with bad fuel?



Weds night, on my way home from work, I stopped off at the local Wal-Mart for diesel (they seem to have the best turnover in my small town of Nicholasville, KY). I've gone there dozens of times with no problems.



Anyway, long story short, about 1 mile after getting fuel, I pulled into my driveway and shut the truck down. After sitting for approx 2 hours, I went out to leave. Truck was hard to start (it normally starts on the first crank). . . Probably had to crank it 5 seconds or so before it fired. Then it idles rougher than normal. . . more of a rrrrRRRRrrrrRRRRrrrrRRRRRrrrrrRRRR instead of the nice even rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr it normally has When I try to rev it at idle (in park) when it's cold, it's cutting out and making lots of white smoke. Put it in gear and the rougher idle is still there, but when i pour the coal onto it, no problems. The truck seems to run fine when it's in gear and driving. After the engine is warmed up, if I stop it and put it in park and rev, no more missing and white smoke.



I checked the overflow valve (spring isn't broken) and changed the filter last night, but no change!



Could it be bad fuel? What normally happens when you get bad fuel?



94' CTD, 2500 4X4, 230,000 miles

 

[illflem]

Normally bad fuel causes the engine to just totally quit or run poorly at high rpms or under load.

What you decribe sounds exactly like a bad fuel return hose.

 

[Treb]

return fuel line

when you say 'bad fuel return line' what do you mean exactly?



there are no signs of a fuel leak in the fuel return line. . . do you think it could be leaking air in? any suggestions for how to check that?



I pulled out the little ball / spring valve on the overflow and it wasn't broken (could be too weak, but not broken). . . but i hate to shell out $60 if that's not the problem. . .



Thanks!

Treb

 

[illflem]

It can leak in air without leaking fuel out and will have to be replaced eventually on 100% of 12 valves.



You will need about two feet of 5/16'' diesel rated hose, a couple of clamps and a lot of patience, it's a tight fit. It is availible as a kit here for $14. 95 http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

In the picture below you can see the line where it passes under the water temp sensor (upper right) the end with the clamp is to the left of the fuel filter, which needs to be removed to gain access. If you have vacuum assisted brakes ('94-'96) you will also need to remove the two nuts that hold the brake master cylinder with fluid reservoir and move it towards the drivers side, pull the large vacuum hose off the brake booster and it moves easier than it looks. I move the master cylinder every time I change the fuel filter, don't see how it's possible otherwise, good trick to know.

To get to the other end of the hose you need to move the two relays with their bracket out of the way, one 3/8'' screw under the hood seal does it. Remove the hose hold down clamps towards the rear of the filter. I also completely remove the engine lift hook. Now you can follow the hose down by feel and remove the clamp. The rest with the new hose is self evident. The intake line is 3/8'' in the same area but a little easier to get at. Sure wish it was as easy to see as this diagram, the only place you can really see the line is right past the hold clamps a few inches forward of the temp sender, even then you can only see a couple inches of it. Most of the job has to be done by feel.



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[Champane Flight]

Hard way

I usually just pull the starter, and come in from under the truck for the replacement. I have found that heat is the main culprit on these lines as they sit against the engine block. I have changed mine two times, the last time I wrapped the return line with 5/8 heater hose. We will see how it does, I plan on pulling it next year and checking for heat degradation.

 

[illflem]

I've also done my '95 twice and have sworn that next time I'm just going to cut the metal return line at the injection pump and run hose all the way back to the tank, away from the engine.

 

[Treb]

thanks!

Thanks for the great info, guys. . . I'll try to do that this weekend. . . It doesn't seem like it's getting any worse. . . All this mis-firing and rough idling won't damage anything else will it? the truck seems okay once it warms up (except it's louder at idle)

 

[Treb]

it WAS bad fuel!

hey guys, thanks for all the help! i actually bought the line anticipating the change this weekend, and thought, you know, it really sounds like these guys didn't really enjoy that work and that it wasn't too fun without that eyeball on the thumb that would be so handy!



so I went and filled up with fresh fuel from another place saturday morning bright and early (put in about 30 gal), and it turns out the problem went away after about 5 miles! now the truck starts like normal and runs like it should!!



i plan on going back to the station and seeing if i can get reimbursed for the fuel and filter and hose! they could have been out a heckuva lot more!



could gas mixed in the diesel do that? a friend of mine who works at cummins suggested that when it happened to him! i wonder if somebody unloading the trucks at the station screwed up???? it was at the Wal-Mart in Nicholasville, KY if anybody lives around here, don't buy it!!!!