Ball Joint Replacment

[BigBadDodge]

Any body know where I can find some detailed directions on changing the ball joint upper and lower. the local dodge steeler quoted me over $600. 00 in labor alone almost $400. 00 for the four ball joints and $70. 00 for an alignment. I refuse to go there again.



Checked the local NAPA I can get all four ball joint (greasable no less) for $144. 00 now I need the know how or any special tools required for the job.



Any help greatly apprieciated.



Scott,

 

[TSielski]

There have been a few posts with quite a bit of detail over the past few months on this very topic, all quite accurate.

You will need to acquire/borrow a ball-joint press to remove and install the ball joints, once you get the steering knuckles off of the axle tongues.

Biggest problem I faced when replacing mine last summer was removing the rusted on hub-rotor assemblies. Even a large 3-jaw puller didn't work. Had to fabricate a monster puller (45 lbs) which I'd be glad to loan, but Calif is more than a few miles down the road from Va.

Hopefully, your hub-rotors will come off easily. The bearing can separate if the hubs are rusted in, but some have reported they can be re-assembled and re-installed with no problem. I would liberally spray all the fasteners, the large hub nut on the stub axle, the four 12 pt polts that hold the hub from the inside, and the inside of the hub mounting surface itself with Liquid Wrench, PB,or Kroil, and let it sit for about 24 hours before beginning. If the hub nut isn't siezed, a few shots with a decent impact wrench should free it.

Be careful when you slide the stub axle shafts out and cover the splines with bearing grease prior to re-insertion to help protect the axle seals. Actually it helps to tie the stub axles to the axle tongues before you remove the hub-rotors, to keep from pulling them off at the same time. Hope it goes well.



tim