Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Ball Joints

[CHill]

I am getting ready to replace the ball joints on my '01 4x4. I see that the parts house has standard replacements and those with + or - . 5,1. 0 and 1. 5 camber adjustment. Are these joints adjustable from 0 to + or - what they are listed as or do they just go from the + or - value with no in between.

 

[NVR FNSH]

I believe they are eccentric and can be positioned to provide up that amount of change.



I have a set of non-greaseable/0 deg ball joints from Quad4x4 for my '00 that I didn't use - I couldn't get the unit bearings off in my driveway so I had a shop do the job - and I'd really like to sell. My buddy had to use a torch to heat the unit bearings & cut the ball joints apart on his '01 - and he has full shop. The job can be a *****.



Brian

 

[rkressg]

Replace the Tie Rods and Hubs while you are in there. You will probably want to replace the rotors because of the amount of effort needed to knock them off.

You will most likely need a torch to cut off the Ball Joints and pull out the entire knuckle assembly with the hub still inside. Then take a large hammer and beat the hub out of the knuckle (like a 15lbs hammer).

It is a PITA.

Unless you have an issue with the camber being off on your truck, I would go with the 0 deg.

 

[Batphreak]

Wow... everyone is so negative about this job. I did mine a year ago, the hubs were just fine (they're a bit pricey, I wouldn't replace them unless it's necessary). I started soaking the ball joints, hubs, knuckle, and u-joints with Pb Blaster starting about 1 week before I tore into it all. Everything came apart pretty easy, 1 ball joint took some pressing and pounding, then I had to repeat 1 month later because I ripped an axle seal putting it back together.

 

[jkalchik]

And for another data point, I see no reason to use offset ball joints at all, *UNLESS* you need to correct a camber problem. If you have a lifted truck, you can use offset ball joints to tip the pinion up a bit, and get closer to a good caster setting. It'd be pretty difficult to correct bother camber and caster.

 

[CHill]

Thanks for all the replies. I'm not really sure if I have a camber problem. I bought the truck used and the ball joints on one side are in such bad shape the truck isn't even safe to drive. The truck isn't lifted but it does have a very heavy cow catcher on the front and I plan on adding a 10k Warn down the road.

 

[NVR FNSH]

Wow... everyone is so negative about this job. I did mine a year ago, the hubs were just fine (they're a bit pricey, I wouldn't replace them unless it's necessary). I started soaking the ball joints, hubs, knuckle, and u-joints with Pb Blaster starting about 1 week before I tore into it all. Everything came apart pretty easy, 1 ball joint took some pressing and pounding, then I had to repeat 1 month later because I ripped an axle seal putting it back together.

My unit bearings/hubs were basically seized to the knuckle thanks to DC wisdom - no anti-seize on the bare metal mating surfaces... . If you're willing to destroy the unit bearings (at ~$300/each) removal shouldn't be a problem.



Brian

 

[diesel DOG]

My unit bearings/hubs were basically seized to the knuckle thanks to DC wisdom - no anti-seize on the bare metal mating surfaces... . If you're willing to destroy the unit bearings (at ~$300/each) removal shouldn't be a problem.



Brian

same here. hours of beating them to gert them apart

 

[Huff N Puff]

Some come apart easy,and some don't

Ive done,some that came apart,easily and some come apart after 2days of beating on em. If I were doing the job I'd do outer u-joints ball-joints and wheel bearings you may need a backing plate too. If you have the traped rotors I'd do those to. Good luck hope your's are easy.