Ball Joints

[supergas]

I am sure all you have been through this but while greasing my truck today I looked at the ball joint boots, I knew what I would see and was afraid to look but they are now two part. I live on a dirt road so I know this will not work for long. I was going to call the parts store tomarrow and order upper and lower ball joints and an idler arm. Any body give me advice on what to do or what not to do? Stick with a particular brand or what? I live in a rural area that will have to order anything I need so my options are open. I would appreciate any input. Thanks Trey

 

[Bigramguy]

Moog

Get Moog replacements which are lifetime guaranteed. Available at most good parts houses,and they are fully greasable. If you just have a broken boot and the ball joint is still good,you can get polyurethane replacements boots.



BTW,have you had your Alcoa's replaced under the free recall ? Check the website for details.



http://www.alcoawheels.com/maint/16x7wheelrecall.asp

 

[supergas]

Thanks for the info only the boots are cracked but they are not greasable joints and that I do not like.



I found out about the Alcoa recall after breaking and buying replacement wheels ( had the same wheel on to many rigs to change to a different wheel) but now I have new Alcoas on both my trucks and my enclosed trailer and a spare set in the shop.

 

[RMidgett]

Ram 2500 Ball Joint Replacement Info

Fellow Ball Joint Replacers,

Today I learned that my '96 CTD needs upper ball joints on both sides. In researching the message board here at TDR, I learned that Moog offers a lifetime warranty on the parts. I called my local Autozone & inquired. The Autozone part also comes with a lifetime warranty, plus Autozone will refund 50% of the LABOR bill if their part has to be replaced. Plus, the Autozone parts are less expensive than the Moog; $40 each for the uppers, $50 each for the lowers. Installation here in middle TN runs $100-150 for a pair. So, for $330 max, this problem goes away. Is it worth buying or renting a tool & a Saturday to do this yourself with no possible labor reimbursment if the part fails? This is the decision I have to make...

 

[Rob Thomas]

That's your own preferance,I like to know the job was done right, I don't let anybody touch my truck,Except for the expensive dealer recalls and dealer waranty,wich is now exausted!!!

 

[RMidgett]

Ball Joint Press Set from Harbor Freight?

Hi Ball Joint Victims,

What is the consensus of this tool for removing & installing your own ball joints in the 2WD CTD?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38926

The price seems right; will it do the job?

 

[Extreme1]

2 BFH's and a pickle fork are all you need, maybe not even the pickle fork.

 

[Ben Rumson]

I used a HF Ball joint tool a few years ago and it worked fine. I borrowed it from a friend. Next go around, I'll get my own and have it handy. I had to turn green and get hulk-like even using the tool to just turn the tool screw. My bj's were in very tight. If you have access to a powerful impact gun, it would make it faster, but it's by no means necessary. I did mine by hand.



Do yourself a favor... squirt some penetrating oil, wd-40, or other solvent on the pressed joint a few days prior to pushing the old ones out and it might help break the bind a bit easier.

 

[RMidgett]

Ball Joints, Tires

Thanks for the reply Ben.

I'm still waiting for the BJs to arrive; perhaps next weekend I'll give this a shot. What I don't want is to cripple the truck so I can't take it to someone after I've goofed up...

I noticed your sig line mentinoing the Michelen's with 70k miles... front, rear or regualrly rotated? How is it these truck tires last so long but I only get about 40k out of my car tires (185-70R-13)??

Are you satisfied with the Michelens on the truck? I have had good success with Michelens on my cars, so I would consider them for the CTD.

 

[Ben Rumson]

Re: Ball Joints, Tires

Originally posted by RMidgett

... What I don't want is to cripple the truck so I can't take it to someone after I've goofed up...

You may have already done this, but you might consider repalcing both the upper and lower joints at the same time. I did, as I figured it was worth it since I'd have it torn apart anyway. Again, not necessary - your call. You'll be into it far enough that you probably won't be able to take the truck anywhere once it's dismantled. Not to worry however, you can take the ball joint/outer axle assembly to a shop with a hydraulic press if you're unable to get them out or in with your BJ tool.



Be very careful reinserting your axles into the housing if you pull them out. It is VERY common for the axle seals to become slightly damaged or just not seal as well once the axle shafts have been removed. Mine did this, many other TDR members report the same thing. The seals will somewhat heal themselves a bit after several hundred miles. If they don't stop seeping, check your fluid level more often and live with a bit of seepage (my choice) or replace the oil seals (fairly major job - see www.dieselpowerman.tripod.com and go to Front Axle Tech for details)

Originally posted by RMidgett

... front, rear or regualrly rotated? How is it these truck tires last so long but I only get about 40k out of my car tires (185-70R-13)??

Are you satisfied with the Michelens on the truck? I have had good success with Michelens on my cars, so I would consider them for the CTD.

I rotate every 5k-7k faithfully. Front to back, back to front. I do NOT include my spare in the rotation. Not sure why the car tires don't get as much. Perhaps it's the grade of rubber or the better support belting/underlayment on the heavier truck tires as opposed to passinger car/van. I'm not sure, but I'd guess that they're "beefed-up" for heavier GVW's and therefore are probably made with premium quality material. I will ONLY use Michellin's on my truck!. Michellin makes a GREAT truck tire - PERIOD. You'll hear a lot of opinions regarding tires. My personal experience (as well as the majority of my truck driving friends and family) has been that Michellin are THE best. They experimented only to get 20k-40k (and less!) out of cheaper tires. I sat back and watched, and did it right the first time - learned from their costly mistakes. Again, I don't want to rain on someone's parade if they feel differently, but that's my story and I'm sticking to it.



I'll probably get 235/85's next time around. Heavier load rating (E), slightly skinnier for better penetration/traction in snow, slightly taller profile, and my truck my turck only cleared my garage door by less than 1 inch in our old home and I didn't think the taller tires would fit.



PM me if you need help with your joints and Good Luck!

- Bruce