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Banks GIT Kit

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EGT as it relates to MPG ???

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Anyone out there install ONLY the Banks GIT Kit on a stock 24v? No other modifications! If so, how did it measure up to Bank's claims?

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'99 2500 QC 155"WB, White, 4x4, 4SP Auto, 3. 54 LSD, SLT, All power, Trailer and Camper Special Group, Keyless Entry, Lund Window Deflectors and Running Boards, Profile Plus Bug Shield, Century raised top cap (thanks to the TDR Classifieds). Had lots of Dodges since '72 but finally got of my butt and went diesel.
 
I'm interested in the same thing. I just want a little more power but do not want to start rebuilding my auto transmission, worrying about EGTs etc.

This kit reduces power to stock levels during the shifts and reduces power if the EGTs get to 1300F. The installation does not look too difficult. I have a PDF version of the installation manual if anyone wants it.

Banks says their products do not void the warranty. I'm not sure whether to believe this or not. They clip onto one of the wires on the fuel pump.

Also going to get ISSPRO pyrometer, boost and trans temp guages.
 
I am inclined to go this way also. If you use both their gauges they hook into the ottomind and are electric. I have asked their tech department about using the GitKit in conjunction with 275 injectors. I will post the answer when I recieve it.

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01 2500,SB, Club Cab, 5spd,3. 54 LS, Bright White, Camel Leather. 01 Sunnybrook 27' 5ver--All Stock
 
The Git-Kit and the 275 injectors are completely compatible with each other.

If you have any warranty concerns, I could supply you with a document that I wrote for the Ford-Diesel.com forum that covers many warranty issues, although some of the text is specifically geared toward Fords. I would be happy to e-mail that document to anyone. Just contact me at ptreydte@bankpower.com.

Peter Treydte
Director of Technical Communications
Gale Banks Engineering
 
Peter, I'm pretty sure I'm going to get the Git-Kit. I also want to add the standard pyrometer, boost and trans temp guages. The Git-Kit requires a thermocouple. Is there any way to piggyback the pyrometer guage on this thermocouple or do I just have to drill two holes in the exhaust manifold and have two thermocouples?

Thanks.
 
I have a BANKS OTTOMIND with the wiring harness and instructions that came off a '00 model for sale. I belive it will fit '98. 5 to '00's but won't fit '01's because the map sensor plug is different. You can e-mail me if your interested..... Blue
 
Two holes are not needed, I can supply you with a dual thermocouple. It is one sheath with 2 seperate thermocouple junctions located within the inconel sheath.

I would not drill 2 holes
 
Assuming that it is a type K thermocouple, that should work. Are there 4 leads coming out of the casing then?



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Peter Treydte
Director of Technical Communications
Gale Banks Engineering
 
Originally posted by Bob Wagner:
Two holes are not needed, I can supply you with a dual thermocouple. It is one sheath with 2 seperate thermocouple junctions located within the inconel sheath.

I would not drill 2 holes

Is the hole size 1/4 npt or larger? I am interested in the Git Kit also but do not want to drill another hole in the manifold.



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Mark Schlueter
2001, QC, 4x4, ETC, K&N, White sport package. Kodiak Sidewinder Steps (front and rear). Mag Hytec diff. cover. Wet Okole seat covers with Rams head logo. VDO Vision Gauges. Three hole "A" pillar mount from Geno's. Mag Hytec Trans pan on order.
 
I see my post has turned into a discussion forum that does absolutely nothing to answer my original querry as follows:
Originally posted by jstyer:
Anyone out there install ONLY the Banks GIT Kit on a stock 24v? No other modifications! If so, how did it measure up to Bank's claims?
I would still like an answer to my request.
Thanks.

 
The thermocouple for the OttoMind feeds an EGT signal to the unit for maximum fuel control. That signal is then used to drive an analog style, but digitally driven gauge. We experimented with the piggy-back concept during development, but found that the additional resistance of the gauge skewed the EGT value too much for the OttoMind to use the data. As a side benefit, we found that the digital signal gave much more accurate data at operating temperature than an analog gauge could give us.

The boost gauge that is available for the OttoMind is also digitally driven, since we have boost pressure information from the MAP sensor. The gauges are not included with the Git-Kit (they are with Stinger, Stinger-Plus and PowerPack) but they can be ordered separately.

If you are using an analog pyrometer along with the Banks OttoMind, your only option is two holes in the manifold.

Peter Treydte
Director of Technical Communications
Gale Banks Engineering
 
This is mainly for PeterT. If Don had been in his shop today, I would have already ordered the Banks GIT Kit for my '99. I had some time on my hands so I looked through one of the other forums and discovered this very unsettling posting:
posted 01-10-2001 07:50 PM
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Mike,
This thread is the perfect place for me to post this:
I am frequently found at the local pump shop well, a few weeks ago they had a rash of 98. 5 and 99 trucks in the shop. The first one had a dead pump. As soon as DC heard what code it produced, they new instantly knew that the guy had a scotch-lock fuel enhancement and they did not warranty his pump. The guy from Bosch said that the 011 and 012 pumps are failing because of the pressure put on them by over-fueling. While this was taking place, a guy with the new kit Stinger something (exhaust, otto-mind, intake, etc. ) came in to this shop so they could install the kit. His truck is a 99. When it came time to install the box, we looked and sure enough 012 pump. After we told him that it may take a dump from the box, he called Banks. After 35 minutes and them initially saying they were unaware of the pump failures, they finally admitted they knew about the problem. He told them he had a 99, they chose to not inform him about the problem. They said to simply return the whole system, when he said that he wanted everything but the box, they said the only way they would do that is for a 30% restock fee!!! I talked to a reliable source and asked what would help and bigger injectors seem to be the key, along with a mild (VA,EZ) fuel enhancement this seems to be better. Thought you would want to hear this since you have a 99.
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Is there any truth to this posting?
How do I determine if I have an 011 or 012 pump?
Please respond ASAP.
Thanks
John

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'99 2500 QC 155"WB, White, 4x4, 4SP Auto, 3. 54 LSD, SLT, All power, Trailer and Camper Special Group, Keyless Entry, Lund Window Deflectors and Running Boards, Profile Plus Bug Shield, Century raised top cap (thanks to the TDR Classifieds). Had lots of Dodges since '72 but finally got of my butt and went diesel.
 
I dealt with Banks once, once was enough. Banks sent me the wrong parts on my order. I was so frustrated by their customer service, I gave up and sent the order back. They charged me a 30% restocking fee for the returned order. If it wasn't for American Express I'd have been stuck.
Do a search on BANKS, more negative than good.

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99 2500 QC SB 4X4 auto 3. 54 Hypermax Boost and EGT gauge Smittybilt steps
2000 Nash 28. 5' fifth wheel
 
Jster sent me this same posting in an e-mail last week and I responded to him with the following:

John,
Your concern is understandable. Allow me to give you some detail on the situation with the Dodge injection pump.

The pump failure problem is one that extends back to Bosch. The pump is a VP44 pump manufactured by Bosch and used in a variety of applications. Our research has revealed that Bosch has experienced about a 2 to 3% failure rate with these pumps. Since this pump is used in a variety of applications (the Cummins ISB is one of them), this has translated into a certain percentage of failure in the Dodge trucks. That percentage has been rumored to be in the 5 to 7% range. Obviously, if this failure rate exists, then some customers who install our product will also experience this type of failure. The fact that it happens on a vehicle that has our product installed is incidental. We have determined that approximately 2% of our customers have experienced this failure. Therefore, I would conclude that anyone stands about a 2 to 5% chance of an injection pump failure with or without our product. We have been able to assist those customers who have experienced injection pump failures with technical information, etc.

We have researched the problem extensively to be certain that our product is not a contributing factor. Our research indicates that the source of the failure seems to be related to an improperly finished component in the pump, leaving a burr that can dislodge at any time, causing the pump to seize and fail. Those that say that our product is increasing pump pressure do not understand the function of the injection pump or our product. Our OttoMind only changes the length of injection, and has nothing to do with the pressure. In the method that we use, it is actually not possible to increase pressure. We have tested and TRIED to cause injection pump failures by using excessive calibrations, hooking things up wrong, etc. , and have determined that our method of fuel enhancement is not responsible for failures.

If Dodge/Cummins/Bosch were to deny warranty simply based on the presence of a nick in a wire on the pump, they would be in breach of the warranty contract as it is stated in the Owner’s Manual of the truck. The Owner’s manual makes it clear that an aftermarket product can only void the warranty if it can be demonstrated that the product CAUSED a failure. Dodge, Cummins and Bosch have not given any indication that this is the case. In fact Bosch has corrected the problem by introducing a new part number that supercedes both the 011 and 012 suffixes. The new part number has a suffix of 015, and this pump supercedes both previous part numbers. Granted, Dodge and Bosch may still attempt to deny warranty simply based on the presence of aftermarket product, but the facts show that the pump itself has a design problem.

We find that when customers are armed with the facts, they stand a much better chance of NOT having warranty problems when they get to the dealer, and some dealers have a clear understanding of the situation and do the proper thing when the time comes, while others do not.

Since your truck is a ’99, if it has not had the injection pump replaced before, then it is probably an 011. If it had a replacement at one time that was a remanufactured pump from Bosch, it may be an 012. The 015 is a very recent introduction and will only be on very late production 2001 vehicles or on vehicles that have had pump replacement very recently. Keep in mind that not all 011 and 012 pumps experience failure, only between 2 and 5%. If you want to know for sure which pump you have, the part number is etched on the downward facing side of the pump (toward the left side of the truck). You will need a mirror and a light to see it. Most of the number is obstructed from view by fuel lines, but the last three digits can be found in a small oval.

I hope that this information has been helpful to you. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance.

Milkman, it is unfortunate that you did not have a pleasant experience with our company. We have been working hard to correct any problems that exist in our Customer relations areas.

Peter Treydte
Director of Technical Communications
Banks Power
 
PeterT,
My injector pump went out last year. Dodge wouldn't warranty it. I wasn't using your product, but if I was they would have still denied me my warranty. What could have I done if I had your product on my truck? How would you/I get dodge to pay for it? I told my dealer that they had to prove that the box caused the problem... they said dodge said no warranty at all on this vehicle as of today. So why would they fix it if I had your product and not the one I'm using? They both put nicks in the wires.
Thanks
Corey

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1998. 5 2500, 4x4, SB, Red Sport, Agate Interior, Quad Cab, O. H. Console, Auto, 4. 10 LSD, Trailer Tow and Camper Special Packages, Mopar Aluminum Nerf Bars, Spray In Bedliner, Pioneer/Jensen System, 255/85's, Bd Adjustable Preformance Box w/boost module, Boost Elbow, 4" Exhaust Split Into Two 3" w/5" cans, K+N Scotty Style, Exhaust Blanket, Bill K's Valve Body, Etc, Etc... .
 
If I were faced with this problem, the first thing that I would do is ask the dealer for written documentation that says that the warranty is void and explains why. Most dealers that will deny a warranty claim such as this one are basing their decision on statements from bulletins or notices from DaimlerChrysler or Cummins that indicate that some aftermarket products MAY be the cause of damage to a vehicle component. These types of statements are often misread or misinterpreted to indicate that warranty should be denied due to the mere presence of an aftermarket product. To date, I have never seen any documentation from a dealer, from DaimlerChrysler or from Cummins that specifically states that warranty can be denied if an aftermarket product is present. The reason that these documents do not exist is because statements to that effect would not be legal based on the Magnuson-Moss act and your warranty as stated in the Owner’s Manual.

Unfortuantely, that does not change the fact that your dealer still made the statement that your warranty was denied. Once you have written information from the dealer, the next step to take is probably arbitration. The down side to this is that it does not happen quickly. However, on a positive note, arbitration is an opportunity for facts to be presented, and there are some built in protections for the consumer in the process. We have supported customers with various forms of documentation to be used in arbitration. Information about arbitration is in your Owners Manual.

The real issue comes down to causal analysis. Someone must conclusively determine that the aftermarket product was the cause of failure before warranty can (legally) be denied, and if warranty is denied simply because the aftermarket product is present, then causal analysis has not been done.

Peter Treydte
Director of Technical Communications
Banks Power
 
PeterT,
I did ask and seen the papers they recieved form DC. Can't remember the exact wording, but it was to the effect of... "Warranty on this vehicle is void". My WHOLE Warranty. "no more warranty on this vehicle. "
Take them to court... . that's what I thought, but that'd cost me more than the pump. So I payed for it out of my pocket. Thanks for telling it like it is. (it does void the warranty unless you take DC to court)
Corey

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1998. 5 2500, 4x4, SB, Red Sport, Agate Interior, Quad Cab, O. H. Console, Auto, 4. 10 LSD, Trailer Tow and Camper Special Packages, Mopar Aluminum Nerf Bars, Spray In Bedliner, Pioneer/Jensen System, 255/85's, Bd Adjustable Preformance Box w/boost module, Boost Elbow, 4" Exhaust Split Into Two 3" w/5" cans, K+N Scotty Style, Exhaust Blanket, Bill K's Valve Body, Etc, Etc... .
 
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