Basic Tune Up Help

[Mopar Man1]

I've asked these before but I want to make sure I got all this right before I start it all. I'm going to change all the fluids,cept probably the antifreeze soon,get the frontend aligned,balance the front tires and grease everything on it. So my questions are as follows



Would I be best to just to just get a Mopar oil filter AND fuel filter? I know I'll be getting the Mopar oil filter,can I even get a fuel filter from Mopar?



On the oil,how much oil needs to be put back in? I'm going to use Shell Rotella,but what weight?



On the transmisson,any certain things to know or do when changing the fluid and filter/gasket? What would you say to use for fluid and how much?



Then on the axles,what weight of fluid should I use,any specific brand to use? Then I'm going to grease the frontend,u-joints,possibly take the hubs on the frontend off and grease the bearings also. Any specific brand or type of grease to use?



Thanks a lot yall for any help you can give me



Jimmy

 

[bgilbert]

Would I be best to just to just get a Mopar oil filter AND fuel filter? I know I'll be getting the Mopar oil filter,can I even get a fuel filter from Mopar?

Sure if you gotta have the Mopar label, Fleetguard makes the filters for Mopar. I'd suggest buying Fleetguard fuel and oil filters, cheaper and same thing.



Buy 3 gallons -12 quarts of 15W40 oil. 11 for crankcase, 1 for oil filter, be sure to prefill both oil and fuel filter before assembly.



Transmission- I'll let someone else jump on that.



Axles- 75-90W or 80W, 90W, any good parts store gear oil will work, stay away from synthetics. It not what you use, but how often you change it. Don't forget limited slip or friction modifer if you have a limited slip differential in rear. One bottle 7-8oz will do. For front and rear diff covers, I use Ultra copper rtv silicone. If you got the time and don't need the truck right away, I like to after I got the diffs cleaned out, install the covers with rtv on them and let them setup over night before adding the gear oil and additive, yeah I know not necessary but I do it. They also say don't use rtv on transmission gasket either, but I use a little and same thing let it set up for a few if not overnight. On transmission pan, use a flat hammer and flatten out any dings or uneven edges on gasket mating surface of the pan not transmission.

 

[Greenleaf]

I think the "STICKY" @ the top of the 1st Gen page has this info..... I don't ever look there cause I know it all now



Engine holds 3 gallons of lube

Your transmission will take 5. 7 qts to top off after the oil "drain". It's a "drain" cause you will only change half of it. So do it a few times. The filter requires a torx bit to remove. Don't know what size..... check that..... #25.



Rear end holds... . I don't know. Use a Hypoid gear lube GL5. The weight rating will vary. 80w90 is good stuff. Use a reputable brand.



NAPA has all filters lots cheaper than Mopar. They have Wix filters... . Nutt'n wrong w/Wix

Engine-1607

Fuel-3379

Trans 1-7957



Scott

 

[dpuckett]

I'll also add that you need to change the air filter. Yes, I know how many years/ miles are on the thing. You HAVE to get one for a 93; 89-92 wont work. Living in a small town, be prepared to pay $30+ for a stock air filter, $60+ for BHAF.



Diff capacities- Per my Chilton manual-

FRONT- 3. 0 qts- as far as I know, stock was open diff

REAR- ~3. 5qts. With the friction modifier (if needed) you will want to put in a qt of oil, then 1 tube of modifier. Finish filling it to ALMOST full- leave room for more FM if you feel you need it. Mom's took 2 tubes of modifier with 75-90 Synthetic last time. Different rear ends require different lube levels.



Dont forget your Tcase- As per Chilton book-

NP205-10w30 Engine oil- 4. 5pts. call it 3 qts and you will have some left over. I have used gear oil with no ill effects, but I dont use the 4x4 that much. SOmeone else chime in here if you have had different experience w/ Tcase lubes.



HAve fun



Daniel

 

[tugboatphil]

Originally posted by Greenleaf

..... I don't ever look there cause I know it all now

Scott, you have ALWAYS known it all!! You da man!

 

[bgilbert]

205 is true gear driven case. Some books will say engine oil some gear oil. I believe most guys will agree on gear oil, 80-90wt. Stay away from synthetics or get ready to do a front/rear output seal job.

 

[Greenleaf]

Scott, you have ALWAYS known it all!! You da man!

YEP! That's me Probably explain why I was beatin' the liv'n tar otta some u-joints before realizing somebody had forgotten to remove the $@!*^% snap rings!



Tug-misterburger..... pass me the sack-cloth ... . 'er feed bag and ashes... ... ... ... ... again :{



Scott



Better send the dunce cap too.

 

[Mopar Man1]

I went and got the Shell Rotella 15w40,Baldwin air filter,fuel filter and oil filter today. Gonna see about getting all that on here this weekend or sooner. The parts house I do business with,family owned here since this town has been moreless,but they don't carry Fleetguard or Wix so I got the Baldwin figured it would be just fine,he said most of the fleet companies and construction companies use them filters so :-laf



Another question,would it be ok to fill up the fuel filter with just a diesel fuel additive?



Jimmy

 

[Greenleaf]

The engine would probably run ok with the additive in the filter, however it's common practice to fill it full of #2 and put the additive in the tank.



Scott

 

[TKingsbury]

The best trans pan gasket to use is the late model mopar plastic/silicone gasket. They are crush-proof and they DO NOT leak. Far, far, far better than cork. The bonus is that they're cheap and can be re-used.

Travis. .

 

[dpuckett]

I confess, guys, I gave him the idea for filling the filter with injector cleaner. It is easier to come by than #2, or at least saves me siphoning fuel form the tank. Plus, it gives the pump and injectors a good dose of cleaning and lubricity, something our archaic fuel systems can benefit from. Havent had any problems in 6 trucks, and 250K+ mi of doing it that way. Heck, it even works in the FORDS I've had.

-DP

 

[JLEONARD]

. It is easier to come by than #2,

Must also be cheaper than #2 if DP is doing it!! :-laf :-laf



Actually I remember from when I had my 81 VW diesel with the VE pump, that "The Parts Place" sells what is called "diesel purge" which is basically injector cleaner that is supposed to burned straight to clean injectors, etc.

I actually used to use Marvel Mystery Oil straight to clean it out from time to time. Never seemed to hurt anything... not sure it helped either...

Jay

 

[BCaldwell]

Mopar Man 1, Why are you not changing the anti-freeze? If you have changed it recently I can understand not doing it again, if you do not know how old it is talk to the people at the parts store there is litmus paper or something similar that will tell you if the coolant is still good or if it is harmfull to the motor or rad.



Bill

 

[dpuckett]

Why didnt I think of that? Or anyone else, for that matter. 5hp penalty all around. And ECJay, I dont think it will be any worse for the wear if I fiddle aroudn under the hood.

-DP