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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Batteries & Cables

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I searched through the threads & I didn't come up with the answers I wanted.



With the dual batteries setup in the Rams, is there a main & auxiliary battery or are they both mains? I am adding some relays for lights & additional electrical toys and I have more room by the passenger side battery.



Are the battery cables on an 02 - 1/0 or 2/0 gauge? I have seen previous posts that show both sizes as stock & I want to upsize my current cables.
 
If you're going to upgrade the battery cables, I suggest looking into welding cable instead of battery cable. It's a ton more flexible and easy to work with.



I had always thought the drivers side battery was "primary" and the passenger side was "secondary"... but I could be wrong about that.



-Ryan
 
Regarding the batteries,



I can only advise about this from the configuration of my own truck. I don't know if all model years are like mine. The batteries are directly connected, in parallel. This means that each battery should not be considered primary nor secondary, but rather they work together, in tandem. For a different configuration, such as primary/secondary, or main/backup, you would also have some sort of battery switch, or an isolator setup.



I've read some posts from individuals who have replaced the dual batteries with a single unit. But you should judge your needs if doing this. If you live in a cold climate, the grid heaters may draw heavily enough that a single battery may not last.



Hope this helps,

John
 
Base on standard physics, the batteries are connected in a parallel circuit. There can't be "main" or "seconday". They both just provide their juice to the circuit.
 
Silver_Ram said:
... Are the battery cables on an 02 - 1/0 or 2/0...



They're both. The large cable from the driver-side battery to the starter motor is 2/0. All other large cables are 1/0.
 
I'm planning on replacing my cables soon. I've noticed there are different types of welding cable- some are smaller than 2/0 but can carry the same amperage, and are more expensive. These cables have a higher strand count. I'll probably stick with standard 2/0 welding cable, and use military lugs. There's a few threads about these. Search for "military terminals"



Del City and Waytek Wire both have good prices on connectors, wire, heat shrink, relays, and solder. McMaster Carr has the best prices on military terminals at <3 bucks each, and onboardair.com also has them for just a tad more.



I'm thinking about adding another fuse block, I've found a marine style one that looks pretty good.



http://www.boatus-store.com/webapp/...295&subdeptNum=124&storeNum=9&productId=91545



Let me know if you don't find the posts with the terminals, and I'll find them tonight for you.



Andy
 
Silver Ram, If You Are Wanting To Change To Power Wiries On Your Batterys , You Will Find That Your Stereo Shop Will Have 4g And 2g And 1/0 Cables And The Ones From The Stereo Shop Are Far Better Than Welding Cables ,,, And They Will Have The Correct Ring Terminals To And Along With Battery Post
 
I like the setup done by Thomas, he did a great job. I got a little confused when I saw it mentioned cables were 1/0 OR 2/0. I will probably just make both cables 1/0 & use the military connectors. I planned on using the marine cable, it's a little spendy, but I have found you always get what you pay for.



I have the waterproof of Painless Wirings Cirkit Boss. I made my own relay harness for the headlights, I have one set of driving lights & will probably add a second pair. There are a few other accessories I'm gonna add. I figured it wouldn't hurt to keep a CB antenna away from the trucks computers. The drivers side is a little cramped unless I change the stock battery trays holding up my Optima batteries.



Thanks for all the help!!!!
 
Has anyone used marine cables? I heard that it is more corrosion resistant because the individual strands in the wire are tinned to prevent corrosion. I was thinking about replacing the cables on my 96 with them since my current cables are swollen with corrosion in between the strands of copper, at the end of the cables. I guess I just wonder if the tinning will prevent the batery acid corrosion or if it is only effective against water/salt water.



And just to verify, the cables are all 1/0 except the one from the left battery to the starter, which is 2/0?



Thanks,

Chris
 
Napa in my area can make cables for your truck. You give them the size and length and they will cut to length and solder the ends on. They use quality Belden wire and When I worked there I made some nice cables for my old 93 Dodge. Might give them a look. Jeremy.
 
Willys,the Reason That Stereo Wire Is Better Is That Welding Cable Has Larger Wire Strans In Them And The Stereo Wire Has Smaller And Twice As Much Strans Which Will Carrie More Current And Less Voltage Drop From One End Of The Wire To The Other And Some Of The Wire Is Shielded To
 
Do you know of a chart where I could compare? I've seen several grades of welding cable that have and amazing number or strands in them. I can't imagine there being more... This information is from the McMaster-Carr catalog, I can't link to the correct page, but you can go to www.mcmaster.com and search for welding cable.



Standard 2/0 cable- 1323 strands at 2. 23/ft. , 250 A capacity over 100'

Vutron cable 2/0- 3300 strands at 3. 23/ft. , 400 A capacity over 100'



Also, theres Del City with 2/0 welding cable at 2. 27/ft, 25 ft. minimum, 1323 strands, 250 A capacity over 100'.



Any specs on the audio cable? I'm just trying to compare here, I need to order some soon... :D





EDIT:



Found this . :--) It's only 1/0, but its 4704 strands! and its on sale at 2. 49/ft.



Here's another link with more selection.



I'd still like to find some more sources if anyone has any. Oo.
 
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Do you think I should replace the other wires with the same size or upsize them also? like the wire to the under hood fuse block or ground cables.
 
When i worked at NAPA i used to make all sorts of battery and welding and power cables. The reason that welding cable can be smaller and can hold the sam amperage as a normal battery cable is because of the strand count. the higher the strand count, the more surface area. If you have larger surface area, you can conduct more electricity.

As far as using cable from stereo shops, they often don't have the heavy duty jacketing that the welding cable or power cable you can buy at a parts store. I would suggest taking your old ones in and match the bends up prior to crimping or soldering, this way the wires don't twist when you are trying to install them. I recommend soldering them and using the industrial heat shrink on the ends to prevent corrosion. I used to make a couple sets a weekend when I worked there.

Also keep in mind that your'e only going to be able to transfer amperage related to the smallest wire in the path. Can't fit a Mack truck through a pinhole!!!

Good Luck

Luke
 
I've done alot of large gauge battery wire for the volunteer fire trucks. Adhesive lined heat shrink is a must at the terminals. Also... I prefer the mechanical crimp over soldering... BUT onlyl if you have the proper terminal crimpers for the exact terminal you are using. A hammer and a punch will not provide the proper crimp nest and you will end up with a 1 gauge wire and a 4 gauge capacity connection. The proper crimp tools can be expensive so soldering may be the best way. Else have an electric shop make the cables to your spec.
 
I can't see any logic between welding cables and or audio cables having more or less ability to carry a load. Both have a specific resistance per distance of wire (as do all power cables), and both want the maximum conductance. Audio wires more often than not come down to oxygenated or non oxygenated copper, neither of which have any eveidence leaning toward an increase of capacity.



I do However know for a fact that a welding cable is going to be far more durable than an audio cable given the duty that both are subjected to.



You are going to get what you pay for, but i'd lay mine on the welding cable.
 
Its not all about the copper wire or strands inside. True. . the more strands the better for any given size. More strands offer a "softer" wire too for workability.



More importantly... the insulation makes a huge difference in the wires ability to carry a large load. Thus with the right insulation... a particular 1 GA wire can carry much more load than a 1GA wire with a lesser insulation. There are many types of insulation for wire and whether the wire is inside or outside. Those that can stand much higher temps also cost more per foot. Additionally the ampacity of any wire is reduced considerably when its inside a conduit (or engine compartment) and/or when bundled with mutiple wires.



So the insulation (and ambient heat conditions) can make a big difference in ampacity for the same wire size.



Without research into audio cable (I'm not a stereo type)... I'd bet the welding cable has a more durable insulation capable of higher temp resistance.
 
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