Batteries

[Archive]

Andy Perreault, do you have the part number for those batteries you are using? I'm going to have to change batteries in my '95 soon and want to get the right ones. Do you have any comments on them after using them for some time?

Thanks,

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Joe G.

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Archive]

The Optima batteries which Scott D. installed in the "second time around" feature are the
800S model. Rated at 800 cold cranking amps.
The part I like is the battery is completely
sealed and never needs maintenance. Even if the case cracks, the acid won't leak out. They are a tad smaller too. I expect to install a set of these in a year or so. I am affaid to price them though. I have seen a few diesel trucks with dead batteries and it is a frustrating problem. I suggest that if your batteries last 3 years, take them out and install the best quality battery available. Don't wait for a failure.

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3/4 ton, 5 sp, lsd, 2wd, qcab, guages, Scotty sys. Rhino liner, Blue Box hp enhancement

 

[Archive]

Just ask for the Red Tops. They come in either side, top, or side/top terminals.

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96 Long bed EC, Banks Twin Ram, BD TC, BD EB, BD VB, Mag Hytec Pans, Warn 8000# winch, TJM Bull Bar, Speedliner, Katzkin Leather kit, K&N Filter, Trailmaster 2" Lift, 35BFG ATKO's, Kodiak Sidewinder Steps, Reflexion Cowl Hood, Autometer Guages, Horton Clutch Fan, PIAA Superwhites.

 

[Archive]

Interstate Battery Dealers carry Optima Batteries.

 

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Yeah, those are the ones I'm condidering. If there is a part number or whatever I would like to know it so I will know exactly what to get and won't have to put up with some "know it all" clerk trying to sell me something. I liked the looks of them in Andy's truck at May Madness (room in the battery box for some gadgets) so if they are working out ok that's what I'll get.

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Joe G.

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Archive]

Optima has a decent website: http://www.optimabatteries.com/main.htm
I have had the top post red tops for 6 months now. They fit in the OE battery trays ok. They are a little smaller than the OE batteries. They have a good reputation for being a great battery. #ad


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1994 Dodge Ram SLT Cummins 5 speed 4x4,3. 54 gears, Scotty Air System,PIAA Platnum Super Whites,Optima red top batteries, manual trans filter,Turbo&Exhaust blanket,Magnaguard rear diff cover,Edelbrock IAS shocks,muffler removed,Borgeson steering shaft,Trailmaster steering stabilizers,Rancho upper & lower links,Polyurethane sway bar bushings,Skyjacker 2" leveling springs(front),Fabritech Stage II Traction Bars,Denman Coyote A/P LT305/85R16(36" Tall) tires on Stock Dodge Chrome 16x6. 5 wheels,Bushwacker Street Flares,Back-off saftey brake light,Bugflector II bug shield, Royal Purple ,Amsoil& Red line lubes throughout.

1970 Plymouth Cuda (under construction)
1968 Hurst HEMI® Dart , Nah its just a screen name ;-)

 

[Archive]

I strongly recommend the Optima battery. I use them in my race car, and they work great. I will also use them in my Dodge when the time comes. The 800CCA model with top and side posts runs around $130 here in AZ. A friend has a 1988 GMC crew cab dually which he installed a 12V Cummins and uses only ONE Optima 800 and it cranks it over just fine. Of course, we don't have to deal with the extreme col

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'99 3500 QC 4x2, Auto, white/agate, 4. 10 LSD, camping & towing pkg. , Mag-Hytec rear cover & trans. pan, Auto Meter gages, Mopar bed liner & mud flaps, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, Tekonsha Sentinel brake controller, Rancho step rails

'97 Pace American 28' "Aerosport" tag race car trailer

 

[Archive]

I strongly recommend the Optima battery. I use them in my race car, and they work great. I will also use them in my Dodge when the time comes. The 800CCA model with top and side posts runs around $130 here in AZ. A friend has a 1988 GMC crew cab dually which he installed a 12V Cummins and uses only ONE Optima 800 and it cranks it over just fine. Of course, we don't have to deal with the extreme cold

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'99 3500 QC 4x2, Auto, white/agate, 4. 10 LSD, camping & towing pkg. , Mag-Hytec rear cover & trans. pan, Auto Meter gages, Mopar bed liner & mud flaps, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, Tekonsha Sentinel brake controller, Rancho step rails

'97 Pace American 28' "Aerosport" tag race car trailer

 

[Archive]

Thanks for that Drag Racer. Just what I was looking for.



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Joe G.

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Archive]

Joe, I agree 100% with the above posts. The batteries I have are the "red top" ones, 800 cold cranking amps. The factory batteries are 750, so you will gain an extra 100 cold cranking amps. They'll last longer than the factory batteries, too. No maintenance, they're a little smaller and they weigh less. I don't know the part number, just get the red top batteries.
One more thing: These batteries have both top and side terminals. That makes it easy to add electrical accessories without having too much clutter on the top of the battery. I turned the left battery 90 degrees and that left me room to add two Painless Wiring "Cirkit Boss" auxiliary fuseboxes for hooking up accessories. My truck will be on display at the December Dieselfest if anyone wants to check it out.
Andy


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'97 CC 4X4 5-Speed, on cover & page 91 of TDR issue 24.
Be sure to visit Northwest Custom

 

[Archive]

Joe - I have had an Optima (red top) battery in my boat that sits idle for 8 months out of the year an have not had a problem starting after that long. The battery is now 5 years old.

Andy - You said you turned the left battery 90 degrees. Does this allow you enough room to place 2 batteries in 1 tray for a total of 4 batteries if you wanted lots-o-power?

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99 2500, QC, SLT, 4x4 ISB, 5sp, 3. 55sld, Infiniti am/fm/cd, HDTcase, NW Running Boards and Mud flaps, Draw-Tite Front Mount Receiver Hitch, Tekonsha Brake Control, SRW and Husky Liners.

 

[Archive]

Joe,

I installed two Optima 800S red-top batteries in my 94' this weekend. The 800S are top post and the 800U are top post and side connection. They are 800 CCA and come in only one size for the automotive market. I installed two in our 96' truck in Oct 98 and they have worked great. I bought them here in Phoenix for $125/each. But, I shopped around. Some places were selling them for $150 each. Also, since they are of different technology, there is no core exchange required.

I thought they were more expensive and worth it until I priced Delco Freedom Batteries were $125 each. No question, the optima is the better deal.

You will love them and you want have to ever worry about battery acid again!

Later,
Tim

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94' 2500 4x4, std cab, 12v, 5spd, gauges, TST 230/605, 110k mi.
96' 2500 4x4, ext cab, 12v, 5spd, Cummins Exhaust brake, 50k mi, 8-10K horse trailer (wifes).
Phx, AZ

 

[Archive]

Andy, I saw your rig at May Madness and decided that was the way to go. I am going to need some room for another project box for some more relays. My '95 is still starting just fine, but it doesn't sound like it's turning over with quite the vigor lately. I thought that I would change the batteries before it made me walk.

Thanks to all who answered my query.

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Joe G.

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Archive]

BV, no, I don't think there would be enough room for 2 Optima's on one tray. When I turned mine 90 degrees, I cut a piece of hardwood that was as deep as the edge of the tray that faces the engine, and the battery is sitting on that. I did it that way so I didn't have to hack up the factory tray. You could get 2 Optimas to fit if you wanted to fabricate your own tray. You might want to check with Wrangler Northwest Power Products ( http://www.wranglernw.com ), I know they make a 2-Optima tray for the pre-94 Dodge's. I don't know if they make one for the 2nd generation trucks.
Andy

 

[Archive]

No one has even mentioned the Optima Yellow Tops (deep cycle that are ALSO excellant starting batteries). Although more expensive (they list for $179. 99 ea. ) they should start as well as the Red Tops (even though they are deep cycle batteries) and last longer in our Diesel application. After careful scrutinization of Optima's battery literature contained in their website, I will be replacing my OE batteries with the Yellow Tops (unless a better mouse trap emerges). Also, Optima has still not released their group 31 batteries they promised earlier in the year.

BV, you should be using the Optima deep cycle Blue Top or Yellow Top battery in your boat.

I purchased a Red Top for my previous 4x4, and my wife and I have a Blue Top for one of our battery powered fence chargers which is used almost daily... for at least two years now.

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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4, (Black) SLT Sport, personalized license plate: BLCKOUT, ISB, LWB, 3. 54 LSD, A/T, 275 hp. injectors, Glasstite Vision II "canopy", Line-X bed liner, 285/75R16 BFG A/Ts on 16x8 M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares, front and rear NW Custom stainless steel/rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover and trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, VDO Vision gauges, PIAA Dual Sport 900 auxiliary lights and Super White bulbs, BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, and Banks 3. 5" dia. exhaust.
COMING ATTRACTIONS: Banks (ISB) Stinger 4" dia. stainless steel exhaust system!

SVP of BOMB! heh,heh,heh

 

[Archive]

Andy - Thanks for the info. I was just a thought for those that might want extra power for a winch or airplane landing lights.

John - My boat does not have any electronics so it is just a starting battery and does not require a deep cycle and I don't have an electric winch for the truck so I don't think there are any advantages there as well. I will consider the deepcycle flavor for our RV when the time comes.

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99 2500, QC, SLT, 4x4 ISB, 5sp, 3. 55sld, Infiniti am/fm/cd, HDTcase, NW Running Boards and Mud flaps, Draw-Tite Front Mount Receiver Hitch, Tekonsha Brake Control, SRW and Husky Liners.

 

[Archive]

Many moons ago I read somewhere that someone put their batteries in the bed of their truck. Transferring approx 110lbs to the rear. I am considering doing this. Has anyone done this and found any pros or cons?
I will probably use '0' guage wire, have female receptacles at the front for a winch and for jump starting Flords and at the rear bumper as well. I imagine getting an extra 110 lbs off that already heavy front end might be a benefit. Plus the extra space under the hood could be used for remote filters, a toaster oven and a partridge in a pear tree.

SCOTT
Ramming Festively.

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TO THE BOMB BAY

 

[Archive]

Scott, after a few months of reading only, this is my first . 02 worth on the battery thing. In the old days (late 60's early 70's) we always ran our batteries in the right rear of the trunk. Made for better weight transfer/traction. Mopar A, B, and E cars only needed a little help in the suspension department. I would normally ground to the body and run "0" cable to the engine compartment.

Two things to consider if you go the battery in the back route; 1. if you ground to the frame or body, add additional ground from engine to body; 2. if you install batteries in any kind of box, make provisions to vent hydrogen sulfide, it's explosive.

 

[Archive]

Scott, after a few months of reading only, this is my first . 02 worth on the battery thing. In the old days (late 60's early 70's) we always ran our batteries in the right rear of the trunk. Made for better weight transfer/traction. Mopar A, B, and E cars only needed a little help in the suspension department. I would normally ground to the body and run "0" cable to the engine compartment.

Two things to consider if you go the battery in the back route; 1. if you ground to the frame or body, add additional ground from engine to body; 2. if you install batteries in any kind of box, make provisions to vent hydrogen sulfide, it's explosive.

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"95" 3500, 4WHD, Ext cab. SLT, 5 spd, 4. 10 LSD, PacBrake, running boards, Mopar mud flaps, 35000 LB. gooseneck ball on home engineered attachment system, , pulling a 6,000 lb. three axle backhoe trailer, hauling a 14,000 lb. hoe,or a 6,300 lb. King 4 horse inline trailer (total loaded weight; 11,300)

1970 340 Duster, 4 spd, 3. 55's, 1968,318 factory air Barricuda convertable. .

 

[Archive]

BV, I was relating to the perceived longevity of the Optima Yellow Top (deep cycle/starting) battery as it pertained to the pre-heater duty function of the operation of our Rams. It really pays to (fully) read the Optima website prior to making a decision. Their Yellow Top is NOT your normal deep cycle battery. It's a deep cycle battery WITH the starting function as a bonus, without the shortened life as would normally be experienced with a "normal" deep cycle battery. The Yellow Top should out live the Red Top in our Rams.

If I remember correctly, this was the battery TLippy (Tommy Too Stock) said was the hot ticket, touted at May Madness.

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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4, (Black) SLT Sport, personalized license plate: BLCKOUT, ISB, LWB, 3. 54 LSD, A/T, 275 hp. injectors, Glasstite Vision II "canopy", Line-X bed liner, 285/75R16 BFG A/Ts on 16x8 M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares, front and rear NW Custom stainless steel/rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover and trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, VDO Vision gauges, PIAA Dual Sport 900 auxiliary lights and Super White bulbs, BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, and Banks 3. 5" dia. exhaust.
COMING ATTRACTIONS: Banks (ISB) Stinger 4" dia. stainless steel exhaust system!

SVP of BOMB! heh,heh,heh