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Battery location & recommendation on Replacements?

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Hi:



I recently purchased a '04 Jayco Eagle trailer that has two batteries behind the dual propane tanks on the hitch.



I'd like to move them so that I can anchor my Honda 3000is generator in that location.



I have the pass-through storage at the front of the trailer and was wondering if I could install the batteries there instead. I need to replace them and was thinking of the Optima or other sealed deep cycle battery.



Any recommendations on batteries and whether this location would be ok instead of outside? Les Schwab Tire has similar batteries (made by Johnson Control) for less than half the price of the Optimas.



Thank you in advance,

Brad
 
I think, & someone may correct me but I thought that it is illegal to put batteries inside the trailer & that pass through compartment may be considered as inside the trailer. If i am wrong someone correct me,Thank You
 
legal/notlegal---not a fan of putting them inside trailer. Do you weld? redo the battery tray up front to hold both batts + gen. or add a tray to frame somewhere where the inevitable ST/225/15 tire coming apart can't beat the batteries to death if tongue weight is a concern. Personally I'd consider setting up for 2 or 4 golf cart batteries, so you'd want to make it easy to add water.

Post a picture when U figure it out!
 
the deep cycle golf cart batteries is the best idea. most of the jayco and mine included skimped on the inverter/charger. if you check it i think you will find that it was not built to be plugged in constantly and it boils the batteries dry and ruins them. get one that has a smart charger built in and with the deep cycle batteries you should get about 10 years out of a set.
 
Standard wet cell batteries outgas when being charged. If they are located inside an unvented compartment you'll have the potential for an explosion and fire.

I've never owned or used Optima batteries so don't know if they are truly completely sealed. If they produce and emit gas when charging like ordinary batteries they could also be dangerous if moved inside.
 
I think, & someone may correct me but I thought that it is illegal to put batteries inside the trailer & that pass through compartment may be considered as inside the trailer. If i am wrong someone correct me,Thank You







Mine was built with the batteries inside... I have had no issues with mine. It is a separate compartment, but it is part of the pass-through compartment, if that makes sense.



I would look into venting the compartment to the outside, they also make vented battery boxes.
 
Hi Steved:



Any pictures of how it is built inside? That would be most helpful. The pass through is under the queen bed and is enclosed with plywood.





Mine was built with the batteries inside... I have had no issues with mine. It is a separate compartment, but it is part of the pass-through compartment, if that makes sense.



I would look into venting the compartment to the outside, they also make vented battery boxes.
 
There isn't enough space for the batteries and then a generator on top due to the location of the dual propane tanks.



My thought was that the sealed batteries wouldn't cause a problem in the pass through. I have heard a lot of recommendations on getting golf batteries. Preference for running two 6volt compared to two 12volt?
 
the deep cycle golf cart batteries is the best idea. most of the jayco and mine included skimped on the inverter/charger. if you check it i think you will find that it was not built to be plugged in constantly and it boils the batteries dry and ruins them. get one that has a smart charger built in and with the deep cycle batteries you should get about 10 years out of a set.



Recommendation on a smart charger you referenced? I'm a noob to trailers and setting them up, so I appreciate the info.



Thanks,

Brad
 
I agree with Harvey... . I don't go for big name batteries... . just buy a good one that carries national service... my 3 coach batteries are in a vented compartment and sealed from the living space... I'd have it no other way... . we've torn out most of the 5er wiring that was a rats nest and installed a buss system and watertight connectors...

This needs to be straight forward, clean, vented, and dry so you understand it at 11 pm and something doesn't work... we've got a digital voltmeter and light in the battery box as well... .
 
I spoke to an RV Certified Master Tech and he shared the same that vented batteries can't go in the pass through, but gel type could.



For an added measure of safety, I'd like to replicate what steved has set up. Looking forward to seeing the pictures.



Jim: I agree the more simple and straight forward the better. I may make this my off season project, including replacing the inverter/charger.



Thanks again,

Brad
 
My question is, why not put a rack on the rear of the trailer for your genset since that's usually where the power cords are stored anyway? You could put a flip-up one there so if you're low on space back home it wouldn't take up much more than a rear mounted spare. This is what I'm going to do for mine since I'm tired of lugging the thing around. Wouldn't that be easier than trying to reconfigure a relatively limited space at the front? Would you really want your genset running right next to your propane tanks?
 
For an added measure of safety, I'd like to replicate what steved has set up. Looking forward to seeing the pictures.







Thanks again,

Brad





It was late when I got in last night...



Keep in mind, my camper is a 5vr... no tongue to mount anything onto.



The battery compartment is basically a portion of the pass through that is boxed in... nothing fancy other than it does have a separate access door to the outside. The battery is in the compartment and the breakers/etc are on the compartment's wall facing the pass-through...
 
My question is, why not put a rack on the rear of the trailer for your genset since that's usually where the power cords are stored anyway? You could put a flip-up one there so if you're low on space back home it wouldn't take up much more than a rear mounted spare. This is what I'm going to do for mine since I'm tired of lugging the thing around. Wouldn't that be easier than trying to reconfigure a relatively limited space at the front? Would you really want your genset running right next to your propane tanks?



Good point about the generator next to the propane tanks. My rear bumper has the spare tire on it. And yes, the cable is on that back corner as well. My thought process was that the generator would be "hidden" more between the trailer and my truck, and would be easier to install that getting a whole new bumper on the back.



The other challenge is trying to balance the trailer, as the payload is only about 1200 lbs. The fresh water tank is behind the axles and therefore the weight of the generator in the front could help to offset that slightly.



While the trailer came with two batteries, both are confirmed dead. I don't plan on doing a lot of dry camping, so I'm thinking of getting a high quality battery instead of two batteries.



The Sears Diehard Platinum was rated very high by Consumer Reports. Here the one I'm thinking of getting instead of two for now.



DieHard Marine Battery, Platinum PM-1 - Group Size 31M (with exchange)



It is more power and reserve than the previous two combined.
 
No need for a new bumper on the back. It's a bracket that bolts to the bumper, then you can install a rack onto the bracket. If I had the parking space, mine would be done already. As it is, it already sticks out over the sidewalk. As for balancing, that's a good point, but I would think that would also be a concern mounting the genset at the front also. Do you really want to add that +- 200lb generator on the trailer at all with only 1200lbs of payload? Not trying to judge at all, just playing devils advocate.

As far as hiding it, what I do is keep the generator at the back of the trailer with a good heavy locking cable secured to the frame. It's safe enough there for me to be comfortable, is generally quieter in our campsite, and to our neighbors, and quieter inside the trailer as well.

A single battery would work just fine for you. It did for us on our old trailer and it was a group 24 size. It ran the furnace all night when we camped last year while it was snowing outside.
 
You can have it mounted to a hitch mount on the back of trailer have it bolted down good if mounted good it will take to longe to steal it. I had a mount on the back of my trailer that I carried a 4 wheeler on. == good luck
 
Exactly what I was talking about. Thanks blackbear. It's a 2" square bolt on hitch bolted to the bumper, then a small carrier that fits into the 2" receiver that holds the generator. The bolt on bracket a friend has was purchased at Summit racing.
 
Thanks guys, much appreciated.



I was able to get the Optima Group 31 for $218 less a $25 mail-in rebate today. Now I'm just rewiring what the previous owner had done.



Great to hear that the furnance can run all night with just the power from the battery. Makes sense, since the battery is just running the fan and the initial startup of the furnace.



I'll look in to the hitch on the rear bumper. I have seen those racks that attach to the hitch on the back of cars and other rv's.



Thanks again for the suggestions. My wife and I are taking it out this weekend to do a shake down in preparation for a large family trip the following weekend.



Brad
 
Well the hitch on the rear bumper won't work. In reading the manual, the bumper is designed for 100 pounds. With the spare tire on the bumper, the weight of the 3000 generator will be too heavy.



I'll probably just keep it in the back of the truck and have it run from there with the exhaust pointing out the back, with the canopy.



Speaking of the truck, I sure wish Dodge designed the 2500 Megacab for better payload capability. I REALLY regret being talked into the 2500 by the salesman when I wanted the 3500 so that my options were greater.



Fully loaded with family of four, full tank of diesel and the Leer canopy, the payload remaining is less than 1,000 lbs. Yet, the rear axle has capacity for an additional 2,500-3,000 lbs!
 
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