Battery Problem - They keep discharging

[LambertM]

I'm calling on those who help diagnose the problem. This fall I was charging the batteries every weekend since they were discharging all the time to the point I could not start the vehicle. Up to the point I got tired and changed the batteries with 2 new ones (GR65, 900CCA 165 reserve) about two weeks before Xmas. Did a 3800 mile drive from Montreal to Lafayette, LA for Xmax, no problems until today. Truck would not crank and I'm charging the batteries as I'm typing. The truck is not used daily, stayed parked for the past 2 days, probably enough to discharge the batteries.

I will try the IOD test tomorrow per the service manual. Cannot see how there could be a problem with the grounds, its an 04, pratically new, and so are the batteries !



The only thing I might think it could be (... and this is were you can put your 2 cents or more... ), is that I pulled the horn fuse (#45) late this summer since the horn was becoming erratic, almost possessed when it was parked. Sometimes long, but mainly shorts bursts of honking. Drove me and the neighbors nuts until I pulled the fuse. I have to get this checked by the dealer, just been putting it off ($$$ :{ ). Probably the horn pad, but I don't want to be fiddling in the air bag. My thought is that maybe the circuit is still drawing current draining the battery (locking the truck, accidently pushing the panic button, or something else... I have no idea).



I wasn't expecting this with new batteries, I tells me that I did not solve the problem. Anyone have any ideas and recommendations ! Thanks !

 

[rbattelle]

Obviously there's a significant key-off current draw. But since you pulled the horn fuse there's no way current can be draining out through the horn circuit (you've broken the circuit).



What I would do is connect an ammeter to one of the batteries, then start pulling fuses until the current draw drops significantly. That will isolate the culprit circuit.



On edit: to anyone else reading this, remember, NEVER connect an ammeter in parallel!!! Always always always in series. Always.



Ryan

 

[DrDiesel]

Just for a couple of quick checks.

Make sure the dash dome lamp switch is not on.

Make sure the glove box and sun visor shade lamps or not staying on.

Also make sure anything you have as an aftermarket add-on component are not staying on. Like the radio, amps, lamps ETC.

 

[jwilliams3]

My truck has the same problem. I have isolated it to the circuit that runs the stereo but I have not found the exact problem as of yet.

Yeah I have to drive the 04 every day or the batteries will die.



If you find out the exact issue please let us know what is wrong. Mine also has the horn fuse pulled since it went bad a while back.

 

[MMeier]

My. 02 worth... by chance do you have an aftermarket alarm system on the truck? Perhaps something there is wrong, and disabling the horn is still letting the alarm system function, just no sound if it's tied into the horn like lots of them are. Also, that Marinco plug thingie you put in... is that just for the block heater or something else?

 

[barbwire]

On edit: to anyone else reading this, remember, NEVER connect an ammeter in parallel!!! Always always always in series. Always.



Ryan

Ryan, could you elaborate on this. I admit, I am lost. Thanks

 

[Pawpaw]

Ryan, could you elaborate on this. I admit, I am lost. Thanks

An amp meter has almost 0 ohms of resistance. If you try to take a reading in parallel (like across the battery or some other ciruit) it will be a dead short. Exactly the same as putting a wire accross your battery terminals.



If you're lucky, all that will happen is a very pretty (and bright!) light show.



Bob

 

[barbwire]

If I have this correctly, I would want to take the posative cable off one of the batteries, and put an amp guage inline. Right?

 

[Blu-meanie]

Disconnect both and only use one battery with the meter. Don't use your volt/ohm meter for this unless you have the setup for higher amps. Most volt/ohm meters are only for miniamps.

 

[rbattelle]

If I have this correctly, I would want to take the posative cable off one of the batteries, and put an amp guage inline. Right?

That's right. Sorry, I should've been more clear. Pawpaw summed it up pretty good, I think. An ideal ammeter has 0 resistance, so think of them as just a wire. You'd never connect a wire between your (+) and (-).



Blu is also right - most multimeters are only good for low amperage. But here's an el-cheapo that claims to go to 20A (my super-expensive Fluke only goes to 10A!) and here's an even cheaper one that will go to 10A!



The current draw from the batteries with key off should be well under 10A. For very high currents (>20A), you want a clamp meter like this one . As far as I know, however, the clamp-on meters don't read very low currents well.



Ryan

Disclaimer: I'm not advocating Harbor Freight... I just knew it would be easy to find dirt-cheap meters there.

 

[gathomas]

Guy's I think there is a simple solution for the testing of parked and unwanted current draw off the battery. . that is an "ice pick" circuit tester.

First pull the fuse to the radio (clock will draw a small current). You can try this w/o pulling the radio fuse, because the draw is so small, the Bulb may not glow.

Anyway, disconnect positive battery cable, insert "ice Pick" tester in series to the circuit. If you have an unwanted current draw (ignition off) the bulb will be lit up.

Then start pulling fuses to isolate.

 

[DBraunig]

I saw two trucks do this last year. would drain the batteries overnight. In the end the failure was the TIPM, We replaced the TIPM on both trucks and the draw was corrected. You can start pulling fuses/relays one at a time and watch the amp meter to see if you can isolate the circuit. We never lost the draw until we disconnected the TIPM, so that is what led to it's replacement. It fixed them both.



Dave

 

[RTillery]

Thanks for the info but I am uneducated. What and where is the TIPM?

 

[PVasilauskis]

From the '06 Service Manual.

 

[barbwire]

I saw two trucks do this last year. would drain the batteries overnight. In the end the failure was the TIPM, We replaced the TIPM on both trucks and the draw was corrected. You can start pulling fuses/relays one at a time and watch the amp meter to see if you can isolate the circuit. We never lost the draw until we disconnected the TIPM, so that is what led to it's replacement. It fixed them both.



Dave

Can you give us an idea of the cost of the TIPM?

Maybe it would be much more economical for me to buy a solar powered battery charger that plugs into the cig. lighter. Unless of course there is another problem that will show up because of the failed TIPM.

I didn't start this thread, but I thank those that responded, as I am having the same problem. (Batteries going dead in a few days of sitting. )

 

[Pawpaw]

I thought we were talking about a couple of '04 trucks. I also think the TIPM was new for '06.



Bob

 

[DBraunig]

I think Bob is right, one of the trucks was an 03 and the other an 04. It was actually called the FCM (front control module), similar in function to the TIPM. I should have called it the FCM in my first post, as the TIPM is for the newer models, sorry for the confusion. I don't know the cost, you'll have to get a dealer to price that for you, about $300-400 I think, can't remember for sure. I would definately still test the draw with the ammeter and make sure the FCM/TIPM is the cause, would be an expensive guess for sure.



Dave

 

[jwilliams3]

I changed my FCM and it did not correct the issue.

 

[LambertM]

I have to say, thanks for all the replies most if not all are very helpfull ! I did a IOD test per the service manual, with one battery connected and the other disconnected. Bridged the path in series with an amp meter and it gave me . 75 -. 90 A which is well above the manufacturer specs which is 35mA.

I have to add that I have a Bommerang Tracking system installed. Their web site claims that the device consumes 60mA at the most... hey, thats what they claim .

That makes almost . 1 A when you add both. There is still . 7 A that are not accounted for, assuming the tracking device consumes 60mA.

I don't know on what circuit they installed the tracking device. I'll pull the fuses one by one tomorrow and see I can find out more.

If the battery has a 160 minute reserve at 25 amps, it would make sense that a 1 amp draw would drain the batteries in 2. 5 days assuming the relation is linear, unless I stand corrected.

By the way, the Marinco plug is completely isolated and used for the engine block heater.



While I deal with the problem, any thoughts or opinions on installing a battery isolator and one (or two for each battery) 1-2 amp trickle charger(s). The extension I used for the Marinco plug has three prongs, I would use one (or 2) prong to plug the trickle charger(s). The only thing I don't like about this is that I would be charging both batteries simultaneoulsy when the service manual states that they need to isolated when charging, but I don't want to start another debate on this one :-laf



My feeling is that the Boomerang was wired wrong, because ever since, the horn's been freekin' out and the battery problems started this fall. Just my gutt feeling.



I'll keep y'all posted. Thanks again for help and support !!!

 

[jwilliams3]

Since I have experience charging batteries I have tried it both ways...



Make sure you disconnect the connections to the batteries and charge them one at a time. It works much better, faster, safer etc. etc.