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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Battery Terminal a bit HOT?!?!?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2001?

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission nerfbars

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I have been trouble shooting my cold start issue, and found that my heater grid relays appear to be dead. Good voltage in, good signal voltage, the relays click, but the output voltage just isn't there.





That isn't the good part. Have you seen this before? My positive battery terminal on the drivers side, being turned to solder. It never got warm during voltage testing, so I am guessing that I over worked the starter during the morning cold start/no start episode.



I've never seen this happen before, and I'm no spring chicken.
 
Bad connection will cause that.



I melted the positive battery post off of a Group 31 battery one -20 below morning on a Kenworth. Never forgot it... ... ... :)



When you are drawing maximum amperage everything has to be clean and tight.



We see things like that far more often then some other areas of the country.



Mike. :)
 
Yep. Like Mike said, it's caused by a loose connection. Mine was doing the same thing after a battery change. It felt tight when doing a "wiggle" test. It still melted. I did a "gorrilla grip" test and the terminal end popped off the post. I cleaned everything up and tightened it properly. No problems since.
 
10-4

I will have to get on that. Thanks. The CarQuest batteries did a number on my cables and terminals, so i hope I can get them tight enough. Switching to the Sears Platinums was such a big help. I really need to replace the cable set, but that isn't in the budget yet. Should replace the truck! Definately time for that! thanks for the input guys.



Dennis
 
It was brought up a while back how badly the CarQuest batteries give off gas which makes a mess of the terminals.



The '97 has the CQ batteries in it. They were in the truck when I bought it. And they do gas. A lot.



After experimenting and some suggestions from the TDR guys I have switched to Petroleum Jelly to protect my terminals.



It works great. Just make sure to coat all surfaces of the terminal, even the bottom side.



Should get you by until you tackle the cables and ends in the future.



Mike. :)
 
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Yup Mike, that was likely my thread. They are really bad news.



I have an issue with the plug of my extension cord and the plug on my truck not coming apart very easily. I wonder if that would help there as well.



Cheers.



Happy New year M8s!



Dennis
 
I've had the same corrosion problem with Napa batteries. I'm down to Autozone or Advance batteries now.
Also, I've seen the melted terminals numerous times. A few of those times, it was severe enough that the molten lead made a hole in the top of the battery.
You probably have enough slack in your stock cables to just replace the ends with higher quality terminals. You can purchase replacement terminals at Napa, local car stereo shop, Carquest, etc. Just don't fool with any of the ones where the wire is clamped under a saddle and left exposed.

*edit* You can get the style which uses a solder pellet to bond the wires into the end if you don't have access to a crimper. Also, most welding supply houses and Napa stores have a crimper and they would be able to crimp your terminal ends if you took the cables off and carried them into the store. (no fun, but at least you don't have to buy new ones)
 
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Thanks,



I looked for ones that seemed rugged but they were all the clamp on ones. I have a friend that works for a company that repairs electric pallet jacks and such. Maybe he has a good terminal end that crimps on, and the tool to do it. What about the second line that comes out of the terminal? I would hat to do that one with a butt connector or something. That would be a bit chinsey as well.



I'll look into it.



Thanks



Dennis
 
I just put these on the daughters car, These things are stout!!. Some TDR members have been recommending these for years. If you do not like these do a search on McMaster's site as they have a big variety.
McMaster-Carr
Dave
 
Thanks Dave, but I'm not sure I get it. So do you have to put butt connectors on your cables and then bolt them to the terminal? Seems like it would be just one more connection that could become loose or corroded. Certainly a fix for not wanting to buy new cables though.



Something to consider. The more I look at the issues with my truck, due to rust and corrosion, the more I want to just do the minimums and trade it in as soon as possible. Hat the idea of a new truck payment again, but this poor rig is just becoming too much to deal with. :(
 
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