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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Battery tray removal?

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All,



I removed the batteries the other day as part of a general cleanup and found one to be leaking. I am trying to remove the battery trays to see what has been done to the paint underneath. I have the FSM and have found all the bolts and understand I'll have to deal with the cruise control on the driver's side... . but how in the heck do you disconnent the electrical connectors anchored to the trays??!!



I see two gray ones on the passenger side and a black one on the drivers side. It appears that they SHOULD come apart (why would they put connectors there if they didn't?). The alternative seems to be to trash the push-in anchors that hold the connectors to the tray.



Bear with me, I'm new to the electrical world so please give me pretty details instructions if you know which plugs I'm talking about. I tried pushing all of the obvious looking places trying to unlock some snaps but was unsuccessful. Maybe I'm not pulling hard enough? I just didn't want to end up breaking anything if I can avoid it.



Thanks!
 
Connector Anchors

They just push in for installation - easier for the builders! to get them out pull and wiggle back and forth until they are free. You may be able to get a pair of pliers behind them and squeeze the prongs and push them back through the hole. If they break, just use a plastic wire tye to hold them when you re-install them.



Good Luck!



Denny

on the road

in Indianapolis
 
Thanks Denny! You're in my neck of the woods right now if you are in Indianapolis. I work just a bit south of downtown.



Safe travels,

John
 
JRihani said:
... and understand I'll have to deal with the cruise control on the driver's side...

Let me know what you find. It's my understanding that the cruise control was changed to an ECM controlled setup mid-model year 2001, eliminating the speed control servo and associated vacuum lines under the driver's-side battery tray.
 
Thomas,



Is it possible that, like my understanding of the 3rd gens, the manual transmission trucks have ECM controlled speed control but the automatics still have servo/vacuum control? I definitely see somthing attached to the battery tray on the drivers side. I don't know exactly what a cruise control servo looks like but if given a chance at a guess I'd say that is what I am looking at. It appears to match the illustration in the factory service manual as well.



Hope this helps. Without turning this into another battery thread I am really torn between the Optima D31A yellow-tops and the Interstate MTP-65 batteries. The Interstates are literally half-price but they don't solve the venting "problem" I'm having right now (actually, more like an actual leak). I realize that the Kirkland Signature/Johnson Control batteries I can get at Costco would be even cheaper. I've gotten good feedback from several members on the Optima D31A (900CCA/155RC). The Interstates are 875CCA/165RC. Ok, I guess I turned this into a battery thread:)
 
It's your thread - turn it into anything you like!



There is a battery temperature sensor mounted in the bottom of the driver's-side battery. The servo, if present, should be attached to the fender, under and forward of the battery tray.



My son owns a late 2001 HO Ram. He assured me that there is no servo on his manual transmission Ram. I assumed the servo was gone on all Cummins/Rams.



The Optima RedTops have worked well for me for three years in a climate slightly warmer than yours.
 
Thomas,



Nice setup! I really like those battery clamps but I'm not quite ready to take on converting the factory ones.



If I knew how to post a picture I would post the illustration out of my 2002 factory service manual. It shows the cruise servo attached to the battery tray below and forward of the tray itself. It does come out with the tray though, it is not attached to the fender. Not picking a fight, just sharing my experience of "trying" to remove the tray this weekend. When I got all the bolts out and tried to lift (before I realized I needed to disconnet all of the electrical connectors) the servo moved with the tray.



Thanks for all of the input!



John
 
I recently bought a dry chemical battery for my ZR1. An Odyssey battery. Next time the batteries go out in my truck I'm replacing them with Odyssey's as well. I wanted a true dry cell battery, no liquid (Optima's are gells). Odyssey's are not cheap but they are designed to last 8-10 years. Smaller and lighter than standard batteries or Optimas, can even be mounted upside down. I'm mounting the one in my Z vertically on it's side. These batteries are actually mil spec and FAA approved.
 
Taz said:
... Optima's are gells...

I believe you'll find that the Optima batteries are AGM - Absorbed Glass Mat - batteries rather than Gel, as are the Oddyssy batteries.



Look at the question Are these a gel ... near the middle of the FAQ on this page.
 
Calling all Odyssey users!!



Which model are you using? The one that looks closest to our requirements is the PC1700T with 875 CCA and 142 mins RC. The dimensions make it look like it will be a tight fit, but it should work.



Here's the issue - looking at the "front" of the battery with the terminals closest to you, it appears the positive terminal is on the right and the negative is on the left. Am I asleep at the wheel, or is the terminal orientation opposite that on our trucks?



If you move down to the PC1200 (with only 87 mins RC) you can order it with the terminals reversed. However, this battery does not seem to meet the RC requirements of our trucks.



Also, I am indicating the NON metal jacket models b/c I wonder if the metal jacket would interfere with the operation of the temperature sensor?



Am I beating myself up here over nothing? The PC1700T does not appear to be a penny more expensive than the Optima, so I'd be interested in exploring it if I was going to drop that kind of $$ on a battery.



Input?
 
Taz said:
I know Optima's cannot be mounted in any orientation nor are they mil spec



Actually, that's one of the main selling points with Optimas. They are spill proof which is why so many people use them in custom cars and in other awkward mounting situations. I don't know about being "mil spec" but you could mount an Optima upside down if you wanted to and not have anything to worry about.
 
Ya the Odyssey's are mil spec (Army I think uses them) and FAA approved for single engine planes such as small Cesna's. Big selling point was the Odyssey small size and 8-10 year design life, plus 2 year shelf life. I would have to have sawed the positive post off the top of the Optima to get it to fit in my car. The one I have also has a metal jacket around the battery.
 
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