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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Battery, what would you do?

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I pick up a 02 new truck tonight. My 98 I am traiding in has 2 brand new Batteries in it (Johnson Control by Walmart) with a great warrantee.



Am I crazy for thinking about switching the New mopar batteries into the 98 and keeping the Walmart batteries with the new truck?



Pros: The walmart batteries have a much better warrantee. There are walmarts everywhere.

Most walmarts are open all the time. (Stealers open 5 days a week)

Lots of guys have had the Mopar batteries go bad in a year or 2.

The batteries in the new truck have been sitting for the last year on the dealers lot.



Cons: It takes 15 minutes to do this, in the dealers lot. (not really a con)

I feel stupid asking them it I can switch the batteries.



what would you do?
 
It is your truck and your batteries, I can't see why it would be any different than a guy who wants to switch his custom wheels or a winch bumper, They are still getting the same truck and the batteries are not gona make any difference in their ability to resell it.
 
the OEM battery in my '97 1500 was made by exide. it lasted barely 2 1/2 years. either Diehards or Optimas are going in my CTD soon.
 
The ones in my 98 went 4 years, but this spring when I replaced the lift pump, the batteries were to low to start the truck after cycling the lift pumps (and the grid heaters were on all that time) so it was time, even though it did not "make me walk". I really think only 1 was bad, one had a green eye, while the other was dark, even after charging them. I always added distilled water when they needed it.



I will have a 5 year lease on the new one, I figure the stock battries may last that long, but they may not. And if the Walmart ones die before then they have a 3 year free replacment and a 9 year adjustment period, so they would be cheeper. (plus they are 1000 amp where I think the factory ones are 750 amp)



Plus I am giving up my gauges, BD brake, Bilstein shocks, Banjo bolts, oil drain valve, etc, etc. I asked them if I could take the BD brake off, he said "I gave you $500 for the brake, its up to you, but It will cost you $500 if you keep it. " It also would cost me an additional $600 to put the BD on the automatic (lock boxes, etc) so I think I will depend more on those new rear disk brakes and that Altama brake controller. (you can feel the difference of the 98 with drums to the 2002 with rear disk just driving it empty)



Originally posted by illflem

The Mopar batteries in both my trucks lasted over five years. I thought this was pretty good as far as batteries go.
 
Your logic is sound for changing the batteries. But it does not sound like a big advantage over the time frame you are talking about. I would keep the new truck stock with the stock battery, based on your last experence it would not be a bad decision to go with the batteries the truck comes with.
 
Another Example

As another example of original batteries. The 99 I just bought had the original batteries which were just starting to go bad. One of the batteries, "service eyes", was black. I replaced both batteries with Optima Red Tops. These OEM's lasted aprox. 3 1/2 years.
 
After 7 years and 125,000 miles I traded in my '95 2500 gasser still with the original battery from the factory. Worked great.



-Roy
 
Originally posted by TowPro

I really think only 1 was bad, one had a green eye, while the other was dark, even after charging them. I always added distilled water when they needed it.





I have tried repeatedly to get the caps off my batteries but am having no luck. I want to check the water level in them, but I don't want to destroy the top of the battery in the process. Does anyone have any pointers on how to get these stupid "maintenance free" caps off?



Thanks,

Mike
 
I wouldn't bother

The only batteries I would put that much effort into switching would be Optimas. Of course I living in the desert. The climate is tough on batteries. Even the 60 month batteries I've used rarely last more than 36. Amazingly enough the 24 month batteries I've used usually last 36, too. Guess which ones I buy for my cars.



I don't buy batteries based on warranty anyway. If they don't last long enough that they're still covered by a warranty, why would I want new ones?
 
I figured if they get low on water, they will go bad anyway, so go ahead and pop off those caps.



A 16oz claw hammer (the one with the curved end) works great.



Originally posted by mikel

I have tried repeatedly to get the caps off my batteries but am having no luck. I want to check the water level in them, but I don't want to destroy the top of the battery in the process. Does anyone have any pointers on how to get these stupid "maintenance free" caps off?



Thanks,

Mike
 
My 99 still has the orig batts in it and I tried to gently pry the caps off when I bought it last summer. My step dad was watching and said I should stop before I broke them off.



Guess it's safe to pry them off after all.
 
The best batteries are Sears I put them in my Lull's (rough terrian forklifts). Since there not used every day the go bad in 1. 5 years at most, all brands. With Sears Gold 3 year walk in no deductable. One I melted the post in a few months they take it second one was a silver and 1. 5 years old when I took it out I ran it over with the 30,000 lb. machine and cracked it bad. They took it back and charged me 6 bucks. It's great.
 
Switch 'em. I use WalMart batteries in everything I own (except my old Vette with an Optima) and get new ones free every two years. Optimas can sit longer without calcifying, will last longer, but will outlive their warrantees. The only thing different about a DieHard from any other lead-acid battery is their effective advertising campaign and high prices.
 
Since I saw that you decided to not switch them, I think you did the right thing. I have the impression that batteries last about three years so I change them out at that time. I read somewhere that most brands are made by just one or two mfg's. and those mfg's. have regional plants because of the cost of shipping. I was at Costco yesterday and saw the Optimas. Can someone tell me why I would want to pay three times what I would for a lead/acid battery?
 
If you often go out of reach of a cell phone, Optimas are worth the money. Otherwise, Wally Mart batteries die before their warrantees are up, so you always have freee batteries. :D
 
Originally posted by JWhitcomb

Can someone tell me why I would want to pay three times what I would for a lead/acid battery?
Not quite twice the price for an Optima that won't spill acid causing $500 worth of paint and other component damage.



When a person loses vacuum or has cruise control problems where is the most common place for the cause?

Under the drivers side battery because acid has destroyed the servo or rotted the vacuum line.



Never having to deal with corroded terminals and wiring again that may send you walking.



They're much lighter



All these things are worth twice the price for me.
 
OK, should have said about three times the price. Costco had them for $147 and since I pay about $55 for lead/acid that is what I ment. So are those things considered a gel or absorbed mat? I understand that gel units are touchy on how much charging voltage is used. I have seen two of the deep cycle units fitting in the space that a group 31 will fit. That is one application I might be interested in but damm, around $300 for two batteries is alot. Especially around here with 12 % unemployment.
 
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