Battery

[RedD250]

What battery is good for these trucks? The owners manual says 1,100 CCA, but the biggest I can find online is 850. Does anyone still make the correct battery?

 

[BigPapa]

I ran a 31A in my '92. It has the regular automotive terminal posts. We carry the ACDelco Gold at the shop that is 1K CCA, part number is 31C1000HRA.

You can run a standard 31 with the threaded studs but you'll have to put eyes on your cables.

 

[NIsaacs]

These work for stud post/top post coversion.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT7234?impressionRank=3

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_728199?ir=2&r-src=FBT:PDP&ppid=PHI86421

#ad

 

[RedD250]

Thanks for the info folks. Someone put a 600 CCA in mine. It starts fine, almost before it even spins over, but I figured that an 1100 cca was recommended for a reason.

 

[BigPapa]

These work for stud post/top post coversion.
#ad

Yes, they will work, but they must be kept tight on the stud. They're actually made to test and charge the studded batteries with. A co-worker used some in his 1st Gen. He started having an electrical problem and found he'd bumped a cable while doing some work and loosened one of the adapters on the stud. It was just loose enough to make intermittent contact with the base.

On the batteries with studs, the cable MUST be in contact with the circular lead base. The stud alone will not reliably conduct full power. I've had techs at the shop bring back brand new batteries I'd just given them saying they tested bad. After putting the tester on the base, not the stud as they were doing, the batteries tested fine. Also, the new batteries started coming with SS washers and nuts in the stud caps. A few of the techs felt they should use them even though they weren't needed, so they put the washers under the cable eye. This also caused full power problems.

If you want to stay with the automotive terminals, I suggest going with the 31A, cost should be the same or awful close to the 31 with studs. If you want to go to the studs, just crimp or solder some eyes on the cables.

 

[GSP7]

EverStart bats at walmart are great

Did the outlaw all the batteries that you can check the "water". I was just shopping for batteries all and the pictures show those stupid sealed tops.... Im sure they wont last as long at all

 

[NIsaacs]

Yes, they will work, but they must be kept tight on the stud. They're actually made to test and charge the studded batteries with. A co-worker used some in his 1st Gen. He started having an electrical problem and found he'd bumped a cable while doing some work and loosened one of the adapters on the stud. It was just loose enough to make intermittent contact with the base.

On the batteries with studs, the cable MUST be in contact with the circular lead base. The stud alone will not reliably conduct full power. I've had techs at the shop bring back brand new batteries I'd just given them saying they tested bad. After putting the tester on the base, not the stud as they were doing, the batteries tested fine. Also, the new batteries started coming with SS washers and nuts in the stud caps. A few of the techs felt they should use them even though they weren't needed, so they put the washers under the cable eye. This also caused full power problems.

If you want to stay with the automotive terminals, I suggest going with the 31A, cost should be the same or awful close to the 31 with studs. If you want to go to the studs, just crimp or solder some eyes on the cables.

Did you click on the link?

It says this: "Designed To Fit Right Over Threaded Stud Terminals Found On Many Maintenance Free Heavy Duty Batteries, Makes It Possible To Use Existing Clamp Type Cables Or Multiple Battery Harnesses"

Ya gotta be smarter than the battery...I use 'em on several applications with no issues.

 

[BigPapa]

Did you read what I said? I said “Yes, they will work.”

Show me one thing in my post that is incorrect.

 

[NIsaacs]

Did you read what I said? I said “Yes, they will work.”

Show me one thing in my post that is incorrect.

Jeez, Scott. You are making a big issue out of me posting a fix for studded batteries. Battery testing/use is not rocket science. Maybe your tech needs some auto electric training.

 

[BigPapa]

“Did you click on the link?” set the tone. It implies that my reply contradicted your’s. That wasn’t it at all.

My point was, the man is buying a battery. Why buy a battery that needs to be adapted for his application? Just get the right one to start with. That’s all. If he already has a studded battery and doesn’t want to put eyes on his cables, use the adapters.

Then, there’s the remark “Ya gotta be smarter than the battery…”

As for our techs, that was my point, they didn’t know what they were doing.

 

[NIsaacs]

“Did you click on the link?” set the tone. It implies that my reply contradicted your’s. That wasn’t it at all.

My point was, the man is buying a battery. Why buy a battery that needs to be adapted for his application? Just get the right one to start with. That’s all. If he already has a studded battery and doesn’t want to put eyes on his cables, use the adapters.

Then, there’s the remark “Ya gotta be smarter than the battery…”

As for our techs, that was my point, they didn’t know what they were doing.

Scott, just to clear the air, we go back a long ways and I don't want any friction here.

You said this:, clearly a question mark for what I posted and why I asked if you read the link.

("They're actually made to test and charge the studded batteries with")

The battery comment was aimed at your tech's not you.

 

[BigPapa]

We’re all good, Nick. If we were face-to-face we’d be laughing at each other. This form of personal interaction stinks.

 

[RedD250]

I didn't mean to start a fight Yes, a lot of nuance does get lost in the digital median.

I did find this one, though. It's already got the top post on it, and has the correct CCAs. Well, almost. I guess 1,000 is close enough to 1,100. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT7235?impressionRank=3. After more exhaustive searching, I did find other batteries (Odyssey) with 1,150 and 1,200 CCA, but they are $600 This NAPA seems like a good deal by comparison.

Strange that both the BAT7234 and BAT7235 say they don't fit the truck when I plug in my vehicle info. But I suppose a battery is a battery. As long as it will physically fit under the hood, and meets the vehicle requirements, it can be made to work.

 

[Topzide]

Walmart has an H8 in flooded and AGM for under $175 and 900CCA. I know that's just below what is spec'd.
Is there room for 2 batteries to be placed under the hood? I'd try for that like the newer trucks have. That way, you could have the power needed along with a bit more. Keep it on the road as long as you can!

 

[RedD250]

Well, it's in the shop now so I'm not sure if there is room for a dual battery setup or not. Front end needed more work than I was ready to pull off in the driveway. 4 ball joints, 2 wheel bearings, tie rod ends, center link, axle seal, brakes, shocks, tires. Hopefully some of that will help it be a bit less... wandery on the road lol. I do plan to keep this thing for a long time. That's why I bought a first gen diesel, they will last 2 lifetimes (unless the body falls apart around it lol)

 

[BigPapa]

That's why I bought a first gen diesel, they will last 2 lifetimes (unless the body falls apart around it lol)

That’s what happened to mine…..

 

[RedD250]

Yikes! Fortunately, mine is a southern truck, so it's completely rust free. Can't find a spec anywhere on it, even the common areas on the frame next to the gas tank, front frame rails. Door jambs , cab corners, rockers, inner fenders... I poked and prodded with an ice pick and took a magnet with me when I bought it lol. Could not believe that there wasn't any rust. Even the paint looks great, like it's only 10 years old instead of 30. Hell, there aren't even any cracks in the dash or rips on the seat. Our '83 GMC looked a lot worse than this when it was only 20 years old. Lots of rust, paint peeling, dash fell apart, seat all ripped. And my dad bought it new. Garage kept the first 10 years, and always well looked after.

 

[BigPapa]

Sounds like you got a good one. Mine was from Jacksonville, FL, but it had been to all but a couple of states and to Alaska three times.

 

[NIsaacs]

Well, it's in the shop now so I'm not sure if there is room for a dual battery setup or not. Front end needed more work than I was ready to pull off in the driveway. 4 ball joints, 2 wheel bearings, tie rod ends, center link, axle seal, brakes, shocks, tires. Hopefully some of that will help it be a bit less... wandery on the road lol. I do plan to keep this thing for a long time. That's why I bought a first gen diesel, they will last 2 lifetimes (unless the body falls apart around it lol)

The wonder might be your steering shaft/gearbox joint. This repair kit will fix it, if it is loose. The D-series trucks normally drive really well.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NPS73064?impressionRank=1

333k on our '91, does need paint.

 

[RedD250]

I'll check that out if it is still wandery after all that stuff is fixed. That's a good looking truck. Mine used to have running boards like that, but all that's left is the diamond plate front mudflap part and a few brackets hanging down. Any idea where I could find another set like that? Nobody seems to make accessories for these trucks any more. I like that period correct look.