BD plug n power and a set of injectors

[Roadhogz]

I'll start off with saying that I'm new to the TDR website and new to the diesel engine upgrade game, but so far I have learned quit a bit.



I have a 98. 5 24v automatic 4x4 with 53k miles. So far I have a 4'' exhaust and a custom air intake. I say custom because I made it myself from an Air Aid cone filter and a 6 to 5" exhaust reducer. I made it a while back and now I've seen similar aftermarket kits. I have a transmission gauge and looking around for a decent price on a egt and boost gauge.



Anyway, I need some advice. I bought a BD vanaiken plug n power box off of ebay ( should be in this week ) and I need to know which injectors work best with this box? I've been reading alot on this site about those DD II's they sound pretty hot, but would they work ok with the BD box? Does this box help increase boost? And will the transmission handle the power increase? I was told by a bully dog rep. that a box and a set of stage 2 injectors would be ok with a stock transmission, is that true?



Please help. Thanks.

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

I don't know about your transmission, but the Van Aaken and set of stage three injectors I had made for a very nice running truck. I set the wastegate to 35psi and the EGT's stayed in spec. for the limited amount of towing I do.



Dan

 

[TxDieselKid]

Originally posted by Roadhogz

I was told by a bully dog rep. that a box and a set of stage 2 injectors would be ok with a stock transmission, is that true?

First off, welcome to the site!!



Great to hear about your upgrades, but if you want to know how long your 98. 5 transmission will hold that kind of power, then might i suggest you check out THIS SITE.

 

[Hohn]

Welcome to the TDR-- the BEST place to be if you own a Cummins Ram.



You have a 98. 5 24V. That means a few things FIRST before you do upgrades:



1) you may have one of the 24V motors that STILL has the KDP (Killer Dowel Pin). You need to determine if you have this and fix it ASAP if you do. There's a lot of info on the 12V forum, since this is mostly with the 12V engines. Only a FEW (very few) 24V motors have had this problem, and they were all early production motors like yours (some as late as 99 I believe). You most likely don't have to worry about it, but it's better to check and know for sure.



2) You may also have a dreaded "53" block, which had a bad casting run and SOME members have reported cracking. If you look under your truck on the the driver's side of the block just above the oil pan, you should see 1" tall numbers. If you have anything OTHER than a "53" there, you are fine. If you have a bunch of smaller numbers instead of the 1" tall ones, the you are golden, since that means you have the harder Mexican block which is pretty much bulletproof. I'ts VERY important to remember that even with the "bad" blocks, it's a very rare occurence, so there's no need to worry-- just keep an eye on it.



3) Install a Fuel pressure gauge ASAP. You have to keep a watchful eye on your bum lift pump. These are known to be the Achilles heel of the trucks (poor fuel delivery design). Install a FP gauge and you will always know if you are fine or not. If you want to do it RIGHT, modify your fuel system either by relocating the stock pump or by adding a "pusher pump". This will ensure good fuel pressure to your VP44.



Now, to your questions!



The earlier VA boxes do NOT have a boost fooler feature to them! That means that while they will increase power, they will have slightly higher EGT than a later model box. It also means that you will have to get a standalone boost fooler (about $150!) if you want to run a stage 2 injector.



You need to find out if this box you bought has the boost fooler or not. If not, I would look for another box IF you plan on running injectors. If the box alone is fine for you, then stick with it. The extra cost of a standalone boost fooler might make another box a better buy.



You could probably call VanAaken and give them the serial number or something and they can tell you what you have.





I HIGHLY doubt that a stock automatic would last long behind a VA/stg 2 injector combination. With a stg 1, you would normally need at least a valve bosy and torque converter upgrade. Any of the trans vendors that advertise here can build you a anvil of an automatic that you will never have to worry about. Beware of how you ask about DTT and ATS, since people seem to be very contentious about transmission builders.



The bully dog rep is right ONLY if you NEVER EVER use all of the new power you will have-- and we all know that won't happen. I personally would not go beyond a VA box with the stock trans. Then upgrade your trans and have fun with the injectors.



You have the standard HX35 12cm so you can defer turbo upgrades until you are past 350-375RWHP.



Again, welcome, and feel free to PM me with questions.





HOHN

 

[Roadhogz]

roadwarrior, so you had a vanaiken without the boost fooler in it?



hohn, I checked out my block. Looks like I have a bunch of small #'s. What does the killer dowel pin do? And how do I fix it?





txdieselkid, I checked out the site on the trannys, bill kondolay pretty much scared me away from wanting to upgrade my truck.





Thanks for you replys.

 

[Hohn]

Hogz: since you have the small numbers, you have the good block! These were cast in Mexico and are a slightly harder, higher nickel content cast iron. They are VERY strong.



I have a 2002 with the Mexican block-- the strongest yet in a CTD.



KDP: On the 12V and early 24V motors, the front gear case was located with dowel pins that are friction fit. Well, there is one notorious dowel pin on these front gear cases that likes to back out and fall into the gears. Best case scenario is it will spit it out the side of the case- less than $1000 of damage. Worst case is it gets caught in the gears, causing a jam, stripping teeth, breaking camshafts, etc. etc. These can top $6K to repair!



The 12V forum is the place to investigate this more thoroughly. When they switched to the 24V, the redigned the gear case and it doesn't have this problem. However, apparently some early 24V trucks still used the old design and are vulnerable to the KDP.



There are two ways to fix the KDP: jig and tab. The jig is easier, since you don't have to take the case off, you just drill a hole in a precise location on the gear case, tap it for threads, and screw in a screw that will protrude through in line with the dowel pin and keep it from backing out (no room).



I am not to sure about what the tab does. . I think it involves removing the case and putting a tab over the pin somehow.



Here's some reading to get you started:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=66092&highlight=24V+KDP



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=64325&highlight=24V+KDP



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=64557&highlight=24V+KDP



I found these threads by searching on "24V KDP"



Try that search and you will be an expert from your reading





HOHN

 

[Hohn]

It's official:



All '98. 5 year trucks have the old style case and are subject to the KDP. They didn't switch to the new case until some time in 1999.



Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Check out the 12V forum for ALL the info you will ever need on the KDP fixes. DO a search, too. You should be able to find out who the jig custodian is for your region and get the fix done pretty easily.



Hohn

 

[TxDieselKid]

Originally posted by Roadhogz

txdieselkid, I checked out the site on the trannys, bill kondolay pretty much scared me away from wanting to upgrade my truck.

That's funny stuff. :-laf

 

[LSMITH]

The VA will DROP EGT on a truck with injectors over what you get with just a boost module and the injectors. Used boost modules are pretty common and can be bought easily for under $100. The old style VA (extruded body, no "feet" to mount it, cork or neoprene end gaskets) is the best box I have ever tried that does not tap the pump wire. It is THE BEST, most low end, quiet, good fuel economy, and reasonable price.



I put 70K miles on mine with DD1's and a VA and a boost module running a bone stock auto. I have put another 25K miles on it with DD3's, a VA, a boost module and an uprate ECM, still with the same old tired bone stock transmission. Before you go thinking you can too you should know that I could fry my transmission in 100 miles easily, it must be driven in a certain way or it will die.



Smoke with the DD1's was not bad at all. Smoke with the 3's on hot days can get pretty darn heavy if you nail it off boost. Over about 80* you need to be mindful of it or smoke can get heavy. Smoke with the 3's when cold is not bad at all if driven reasonably. 2's will be somewhere in between... .....

 

[Roadhogz]

Thanks for the info. LSMITH.



I got the VA box today, installed it and man, let me say that I'm not used to having power like most guys here, but this little box by it self really kicked my 24v in the butt and woke it up.



The bad thing is, I call the phone# on the box and the rep. said it was the old box, so it doesn't have the boost fooler. But, they have them for $80, still not bad considering I only paid $250 for the VA box.



Well I think I'm going with the DD II's and maybe LSMITH can give me some driving tips on how to make the stock transmission last longer.

 

[Hohn]

I am kind of in the same boat, since I want to go big on injectors, but don't yet have the $$ for a big bad clutch.



I am going to try to run DD3s and keep the clutch alive as long as possible. I figure that means being ginger in the top two gears. As long as I don't nail it at low rpm or in 5 or 6, then I think I can cheat a little until the clutch money is here.



HOHN

 

[CFAR]

Hohn, Yes III's



don't know about the 02 clutches but my 01. 5 needs the clutch sitting on the back seat, 5th and 6th below 2000 rpm will slip.



That comp of mine is getting pretty impatient so I guess I will have to put the clutch in soon. Also will be towing my enclosed cargo trailer to CA in July so I will definately need the clutch.



Pm me if you have any questions



lol

 

[LSMITH]

$330 for the VA and a boost module (at $80 BUY IT) is an outstanding price. I have had 2 "sets" and paid a lot more than that for them.

 

[Roadhogz]

Ordered the boost fooler today. Now waiting for a good deal on a set of DD 2's. Should I buy new of used, what do you guys think?

 

[LSMITH]

I bought my first set new and the second set used. Both were good buys. If you can save some serious coin, like 20% or

more used would not scare me one bit... .

 

[Roadhogz]

I've noticed that the used DDII's and DDIII's in the classifieds sell like hot cakes, I might have to go with 275 hp injectors. There are plenty on ebay for about $225. What ya think?

 

[LSMITH]

Cough up another $40 over the ebay price and buy them from someone you can trust, so you know 100% that what you get is what you should have. Piers@PDR would be a good choice, Rod@Wildcat gets high marks from the members but I have not used him, Tom@BlackMountain is a great guy and several others.



If a set of SuperMentals was to come up reasonable I would sell my 3's reasonable... ... ... ... ...

 

[Roadhogz]

I think I'll do that. Better safe than sorry! Hey, there's a set of megamentals for $600 in the classifieds, if your interested? Get them so you can sell me yours.

 

[LSMITH]

Mega is just too big, I street drive mine only, no racing in my future either. LOL, my 3's are too big for what I do with my truck but boy does it run nice... ... .

 

[Roadhogz]

What other mods does your truck have to go with the DD3's? Do you cover traffic behind you with a cloud of black smoke?