around town i see 400-500 pyro, and on the highway towing my trailers i see around 700- 900. . im mounted pre turbo, does that seem like valid readings?
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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) BD Power Edge Ez installed, WOW! I have a Question
- Thread starter socalmat
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I pulled a 7-8000# load the other day with the comp on 2x4 and then 3x5 without getting to 900F or the boost over 20psi, but I had no hills to climb AND I had gauges to watch!
With gauges you KNOW if you have a boost leak and you KNOW if you have a temp problem. Without, it's just a crapshoot. I don't like driving without them much less towing.
In the short run, keep your R's around 2k. In the long run GET DEM GAUGES. You and the truck will be happier.
With gauges you KNOW if you have a boost leak and you KNOW if you have a temp problem. Without, it's just a crapshoot. I don't like driving without them much less towing.
In the short run, keep your R's around 2k. In the long run GET DEM GAUGES. You and the truck will be happier.
Also keep in mind that for us here in Colorado elevation and outside air temps DO matter. Before I went to the AFE, I could get to 1300 empty no problem. After the addition of the EZ... well, lets just say you need to pay attention to those temps. Pulling our 5500# boat back from Lake Powell when its 110 outside with the camper on the truck can be a real test of foot control 
I've installed TONS of PE EZ's and if you increase your Boost correctly then I would not concern yourself about EGT's any more than you are with your "stock" truck now. Be sure to check lift pump "Under Full Load" and Gauges are great even when stock. I highly suggest gauges before any changes. If not you will always wonder how much your readings have changed.
let me just say this! im glad i live on flat ground lol!!!
SoCalMat:
You NEED a fuel pressure gauge. NOW, before you go any further. Do not pass go, do not collect $200.
You should also get EGT and boost gauges (and trans temp if you have an auto). They aren't a must really unless you go beyond an EZ only, but I would STRONGLY recommend them even for a stock truck. You won't be able to to really quantify the changes your upgrades make until you get gauges.
Anytime you add fuel (power) you need to increase boost to keep temps under control. The "boost elbow" is used on the manual trans trucks (which have a slightly different, slightly larger turbo) to fool the wastegate into allowing more boost.
An automatic trans truck has no such provisions. The "turnbuckle" is a mechanical method of forcing the wastegate to stay closed. It will allow you to raise boost, but do NOT exceed 28-30 psi or so, since you will hit the "choke point" of your turbo, and EGT will get very hot very fast.
The EZ should not raise temps when boost is raised. Without the turnbuckle, it WILL raise temps.
BigUgly is right on with the pre-turbo and post turbo post. I am an RCH away from moving mine to pre-turbo- probably this weekend. For sustained temps, you the difference between post and pre pyro is easy to guesstimate at 200-300. However, it is the transients (like you when you tromp on the smoke pedal) that will show large, unpredictable variances.
Enjoy your EZ, but do your turnbuckle and gauges FIRST. Then you can install it without worries, and know what's going on as well!!
HOHN
You NEED a fuel pressure gauge. NOW, before you go any further. Do not pass go, do not collect $200.
You should also get EGT and boost gauges (and trans temp if you have an auto). They aren't a must really unless you go beyond an EZ only, but I would STRONGLY recommend them even for a stock truck. You won't be able to to really quantify the changes your upgrades make until you get gauges.
Anytime you add fuel (power) you need to increase boost to keep temps under control. The "boost elbow" is used on the manual trans trucks (which have a slightly different, slightly larger turbo) to fool the wastegate into allowing more boost.
An automatic trans truck has no such provisions. The "turnbuckle" is a mechanical method of forcing the wastegate to stay closed. It will allow you to raise boost, but do NOT exceed 28-30 psi or so, since you will hit the "choke point" of your turbo, and EGT will get very hot very fast.
The EZ should not raise temps when boost is raised. Without the turnbuckle, it WILL raise temps.
BigUgly is right on with the pre-turbo and post turbo post. I am an RCH away from moving mine to pre-turbo- probably this weekend. For sustained temps, you the difference between post and pre pyro is easy to guesstimate at 200-300. However, it is the transients (like you when you tromp on the smoke pedal) that will show large, unpredictable variances.
Enjoy your EZ, but do your turnbuckle and gauges FIRST. Then you can install it without worries, and know what's going on as well!!
HOHN
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EGT's
I have an ETC with EZ and 275's. I've installed the boost elbow that came with the EZ. Not sure what the deal is compared to the others, but I've never seen over 1100 pre turbo with over 18,000 GW up a 6 mile grade at 26 psi max boost. I have stock air box and exhaust plus an Ebrake. My bone stock max EGT's were about 975 with 19 psi max boost in the same situation.
Maybe my thermocouple is bad or mis-calibrated, but EGT just isn't an issue for me. Reading these posts about 1300 pre EGT's with just an EZ makes me nervous that I need a new thermocouple or something...
Why the big difference in reported EGT's with similar setups?
I'm confused
and nervous
Chris
I have an ETC with EZ and 275's. I've installed the boost elbow that came with the EZ. Not sure what the deal is compared to the others, but I've never seen over 1100 pre turbo with over 18,000 GW up a 6 mile grade at 26 psi max boost. I have stock air box and exhaust plus an Ebrake. My bone stock max EGT's were about 975 with 19 psi max boost in the same situation.
Maybe my thermocouple is bad or mis-calibrated, but EGT just isn't an issue for me. Reading these posts about 1300 pre EGT's with just an EZ makes me nervous that I need a new thermocouple or something...
Why the big difference in reported EGT's with similar setups?
I'm confused
and nervous Chris
just for comparison...
I live at sea level on the coast and drive the same route everyday to work. Part of this drive is a 6% grade for 4 miles on the 71 toll road, and with the truck empty I have a hard time reaching 1000 with my foot all the way into the go pedal. With the 10k 5er behind me however, I have to back out of the throttle in order to keep it under 1200, and could easily go over.
I haven't had the rig over about 4000 feet yet, but at those heights the temp seemed to be about the same. We'll see what happens when we go over the Eisenhower pass on the I-70 this summer !
My truck is turnbuckled with an EZ and those are the only mods. Temp probe is pre-turbo.
I live at sea level on the coast and drive the same route everyday to work. Part of this drive is a 6% grade for 4 miles on the 71 toll road, and with the truck empty I have a hard time reaching 1000 with my foot all the way into the go pedal. With the 10k 5er behind me however, I have to back out of the throttle in order to keep it under 1200, and could easily go over.
I haven't had the rig over about 4000 feet yet, but at those heights the temp seemed to be about the same. We'll see what happens when we go over the Eisenhower pass on the I-70 this summer !
My truck is turnbuckled with an EZ and those are the only mods. Temp probe is pre-turbo.
OK everyone, Gauges are in, NOW WHAT?
I installed my pillar mounts. All went well. I am waiting for a fuel isolator to huuuuuk uuuup the fuel presure gauge... ... .....
However, I can peg the pyro/egt gauge while towing my boat up a hill. I will go back, reread everything everyone has said, but until then, what do I do to lower the temp for full throttle operation? Again, I have an Edge EZ and a 4 inch exhaust. Will the turn buckle to raise boost presure help? Larger injectors?
Thank you everyone for your earlier responses. Today I am installing a Turbo Saver.
MW
I installed my pillar mounts. All went well. I am waiting for a fuel isolator to huuuuuk uuuup the fuel presure gauge... ... .....
However, I can peg the pyro/egt gauge while towing my boat up a hill. I will go back, reread everything everyone has said, but until then, what do I do to lower the temp for full throttle operation? Again, I have an Edge EZ and a 4 inch exhaust. Will the turn buckle to raise boost presure help? Larger injectors?
Thank you everyone for your earlier responses. Today I am installing a Turbo Saver.
MW
Yes, Boost will definatly help.
If the EGTs are still an issue, look into a good, freer flowing intake. The AFE Megacannon and Scotty 2 are two oiled filter systems that really seem to lower the EGTs. The paper BHAF should also lower your EGTs, but not as well as the other two.
Untill then, back off the throttle a bit. 1250 max for extended times, a spike above isn't that dangerous, but keep it short.
Josiah
If the EGTs are still an issue, look into a good, freer flowing intake. The AFE Megacannon and Scotty 2 are two oiled filter systems that really seem to lower the EGTs. The paper BHAF should also lower your EGTs, but not as well as the other two.
Untill then, back off the throttle a bit. 1250 max for extended times, a spike above isn't that dangerous, but keep it short.
Josiah
Not sure if you have an auto or a manual (trying to fiquire out if you have a HY or HX turbo. ) I pulled my HY and put in a HX and BHAF. I have a major fueling box and live @ 5,000 MSL. With my box as high as I can go without fuel pressure problems (30%) which is a lot of fueling 
I can no longer get er above about 1250 degrees spiked, and steadies off around 1100. If you have the HY it might be beneficial to swap it out for even a stock HX. I am pleased, and the lag of the 12cm housing over the stock 9cm on the HY is not that bigga deal. From the BHAF I saw about a 75 degree decrease in EGT"s prior to the HX as well
I can no longer get er above about 1250 degrees spiked, and steadies off around 1100. If you have the HY it might be beneficial to swap it out for even a stock HX. I am pleased, and the lag of the 12cm housing over the stock 9cm on the HY is not that bigga deal. From the BHAF I saw about a 75 degree decrease in EGT"s prior to the HX as well
1000 deg. post turbo
I briefly hit 1000 degrees post turbo pulling our 7500 lb (+\-) TT going up I-70 towards the Eisenhower tunnel today, backed off a little and dropped it to around 900-950 for the rest of the way(long steep pull). The engine never got above about 210, but so did the transmission. Do those numbers sound alright? I was able to maintain about 45 mph. Outside air was about 65-70.
I briefly hit 1000 degrees post turbo pulling our 7500 lb (+\-) TT going up I-70 towards the Eisenhower tunnel today, backed off a little and dropped it to around 900-950 for the rest of the way(long steep pull). The engine never got above about 210, but so did the transmission. Do those numbers sound alright? I was able to maintain about 45 mph. Outside air was about 65-70.
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Danger Will Robinson, DANGER!!
I would NOT make it a habit to hit 1000 post turbo. True, you are probably safe for the momentary situations as you described, but post turbo you just can't know. The temp drop across the turbo is impossible to quantify because it changes quickly by varying amounts.
I set my post-turbo limit at 900. EGT is something that you just don't want to be on the wrong side of. So I give myself some extra cushion.
HOHN
I would NOT make it a habit to hit 1000 post turbo. True, you are probably safe for the momentary situations as you described, but post turbo you just can't know. The temp drop across the turbo is impossible to quantify because it changes quickly by varying amounts.
I set my post-turbo limit at 900. EGT is something that you just don't want to be on the wrong side of. So I give myself some extra cushion.
HOHN
Thanks brother, it's definately NOT a habit. My limit is 950-I must have been watching where I was going or something. It won't happen again. FP gauge is next to be followed by a BHAF, then transmission upgrade then... ...
post turbo temps
It can be very dangerous to use post turbo temperatures with any fixed degree offset. The actual variation is dependent on how much work you are extracting from the exhaust stream. At idle there will be almost no difference, but worknig hard with high boost and high RPM's there will be a very large difference. An engine rebuild costs much more than a properly installed sensor. I have pictures of my installation method for those who worry about shavings in the manifold. I'll post them if anyone is interested.
It can be very dangerous to use post turbo temperatures with any fixed degree offset. The actual variation is dependent on how much work you are extracting from the exhaust stream. At idle there will be almost no difference, but worknig hard with high boost and high RPM's there will be a very large difference. An engine rebuild costs much more than a properly installed sensor. I have pictures of my installation method for those who worry about shavings in the manifold. I'll post them if anyone is interested.
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
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