2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Bed Tilt Help

[Bulldog80]

I'm about to do my first fuel tank sending unit repair and have been reading up on the previous posts. It sounds like the "bed tilt" is the consensus way to go but no one describes exactly how to do it. I read where someone just loosened the straps and tilted the tank too. Can anybody give me any pointers on these methods? Believe me, any and all help is much appreciated.

 

[Alphacowboy]

sorry, cant help ya on that, but could you get a picture of the sending unit when you have a chance?

 

[Todd G]

Disconnect the fuel fill hose and spare tire winch mechanism. You may have to unplug the taillight harness as well. Take out the front 4 bed bolts and loosen the rear 2. Tilt front of bed up. Like many have said before, be aware that you are sitting in a loaded mousetrap! Block the bed up with something sturdy or we may read about you on the stupid news.....

 

[Bulldog80]

Thanks for the info. Todd. Alpha, I don't have another sending unit yet to photograph. I'm going to try to do either the Conway or Johanson repair to mine and see if it works. You're supposed to be able to repair these things and have em' last as long as a new one.

 

[JGK]

sorry, cant help ya on that, but could you get a picture of the sending unit when you have a chance?

Look in my Reader's Rig Gallery under Misc.



-Jay

 

[DBentley]

Bulldog if you want the easy out like me you can cut a 7 in square hatch over the fuel module in the bed floor and get in there. Thats how i did mine and its nice to know I can get to it anytime. I figure the truck aint worth nothing now since its so old so why not do it the easiest way.

 

[Bulldog80]

That's a pretty good idea DB, but I'm hoping not to have to get back in there that often.

 

[blackram99]

I just changed mine last Friday, I took out all 8 bed bolts, unhooked the tail lights from the frame, droped the bumper off and took the 4 screws out of the fill tank lid. slid bed back to where I could work on it easy... 1 other thing I did was jacked up the back end & took off the back tires... . ( didn't have to lift the bed up so high when we walked it back)... . If everything goes right and u have an extra set of hands u can do it in just about 2- 2 1/2 hours..... Don

 

[DBentley]

After you take a look at that fuel module plastic piece of crap you may decide to have an easy way back in there for future fixes

 

[Bulldog80]

Thanks again guys, I'm going to tear into it on Friday.

 

[tractorface]

Be careful

The Access plate deal won't work on a QC without extensive mods. The tank module is right under the bed crossmember I was in and out of mine for a while when I was building a new module. I found the best method for me was to take out the 6 bed bolts and remove the rear bumper. All this is a 5 minute job with an impact wrench. Unclip the taillights, pull the 3 screws from the filler neck behind the fuel door on the bed side and remove the ground strap on the passenger side front part of the bed. Very easy to walk the bed back far enough to get er done. Use wood on the tires to keep from having the bed "deflate" them. The second time you do this will only take 20 minutes if you stop to drink a beer from start to finish. Ah The heavy cap on my truck does make it fun though.

Good luck



Your gonna love the OEM quick connects on the fuel lines. When you break em off just go to Pep boys and buy new ones or replace them altogether with hose clamps. FWIW I am not sure hose clamps will work on the plastic return line so be careful. Pull the clip on the line and then take em right off. the clip can be reinstalled

 

[RBrunson]

When I did my 96 I only removed the four front bolts, filler hose. Never touched the bumper, wiring or spare tire and it worked for me. Took about a hour. I used a floor jack at the front of the bed and then blocked it in position.

I have learned that there are several different ways that people do it, I just like to do it with the least amount of disassembly.