Before I get ahead of myself...

[sparks57]

Before I push this engine hard, I want to know if everything is ok, I have 205k miles on it. So far I have done a thorough visual inspection of the topside of the engine and everything looks good except for a couple of seals. I will be doing a pressure check on the intercooler and the cooling system. I will also pull of the front timing cover and replace the KDP and tab it, and check the parts. I think a compression test is in order. Maybe it's overkill, but I want to make sure, cheap insurance. Besides that stuff, what other kinds of inspections should be done with the engine?



I just want to make sure everything is in running order so I don't spend all my money just to have something break that I won't have money to fix.



I will be doing a thorough inspection of the drivetrain also, looking the ball joints, u-joints, seals etc. I think I might pull the diff-covers and check everything in there. Plus I want to pull the back brakes to see what's up with those. I'm going to flush the brakes, and PSF.



Any suggestions on more things to check on the engine?



Any suggestions on more things to check on the drivetrain?



ALSO: WHERE SHOULD I BE LOOKING FOR KDP DAMAGE INSIDE THE ENGINE BESIDES THE TIMING GEARS??? Should I pull the main front and look in there too?



I'm basically doing a revitalization of my truck this winter. I think the old girl would really appreciate it.



Oh, and I will check the contacts and everything for the cold start devices like the heaters, KSB etc. And I'm going to pull the stop solenoid to check it's integrity and for metal fragments.

 

[Greenleaf]

Adjust the valves.

Do an engine oil analysis. (ya gotta have some miles on the oil, say 1500,2000 or so).



Greenleaf

 

[sparks57]

Great! I actually knew about that, but I forgot to list it.



My memory is failing me from old age!



Anways, yeah I plan on replacing the leaky valve cover gasket, and adjusting the valves at the same time.



BTW: What kind of problems can be discovered through an engine oil analysis? How much oil is needed? Where should I send my sample?

 

[J DeMaio]

Chris:



When you take the front cover off to fix the KDP, LOCTITE THE TIMING CASE BOLTS! These can vibrate loose and cause a lot of broken parts and be hard on the wallet.



John

 

[Greenleaf]

Oil Sample

First;



Pick up a sample test kit from;

John Deere Dealer

Heavy Equipment dealer

NAPA

Case IH dealership

Any heavy (OTR) truck dealer



Then... ..... follow the directions. You will be asked to collect about a pint of used oil and often times the same of the new oil you intend to use. Keep the oil sample clean!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Do not allow any foreign debris to enter the sample. Send to the lab address included in the kit.



Post the results here.



You will then know the internal condition of your engine in terms of wear metals {rings/cyl walls/pistons/bearings etc. },coolant leak(s) dirt,effectiveness of your air filter/engine lube oil. And much more!



Cost is 6 to 12 bucks depending on the source.



Scott

 

[sparks57]

Great!



Thanks for the info so far! Keep it comming!!!!

 

[dpuckett]

Find true TDC. The timing pin has been known to be off by several degrees. The 90 manual even mentions that they can be off, though it gives some BS excuse of "if the timing case was replaced" But you know.



Check the rear main seal; replace it if you do the clutch. You should be able to shne a flashlight inside the bellhousing, and see if there is any oil leaking. I have one that I will need to replace over Christmas. I think I'll have a 4 day weekend. Lots of time to clutter up my budy's shop and freeze my @$$ off in the 20 deg, 70% humidity.



Check transmission seals so you can run synthetics in it without making it into a seive. Run a 5w50 or something a little heavier than the 5w30 recommended by the book, esp if you plan on stressing it that much. Or is ti just going to be a sleeper, and do the occasional run against a Camaro or Mustang? While you're at it, overfill it. I just buy the 5 qt jug and pour it all in there through the top.



GET GREASABLE U-JOINTS. I cant stress this enough. And get Spicer units. They cost no more than any other brand. Seems like I paid $15 for the last ones I got at Drivetrain Industries.



Change all your gearbox fluids, including differentials. Check for odd wear patterns on the ring and pinion. Check the adaptor between the transmission and t-case. Had one strip on me on I25 at CastleRock in Aug '02. Not fun.



I'd get the blowby checked rather than straight compression. The only way to check compression is by removing the injectors, and a blowby test on a dyno with a manometer (sp?) will tell you more about the overall condition of your engine than a compression test.



Get a service manual. No further explanation needed.



Daniel

 

[sparks57]

Thanks, Daniel. I currently do have greaseable u-joints. I am running systhetics, and I have no noticeable leaks.



What should I look for when I open up the diffs?



What exactly is a blowbuy test?



I want a service manual, but I am hard pressed to find a 93 manual. I really want one.

 

[dpuckett]

There was one in the classifieds about 3 weeks ago. Long gone by now, I imagine. Was $40.

 

[cguthrie]

Hey look at this website, They don't show 93's on there but i heard if you call them they have some.

Service manual





Chris