Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Before I start...

[AMink]

I am looking forward to doing some mods on my 97. It has about 103K on it, very well maintained, everything seems to work well. I have been lurking around the site, trying to assimilate all the info. I guess the questions begin with- How much power can be sent through a stock AT without cooking it? I believe that my truck is the 185hp version. I remember that the power was knocked down from the MT version. Next- I figure I'll start by installing a BHAF, then work from there. This will have to be a piece-meal project. What would you guys (and/or gals) suggest next? I understand plates, turbo housings, exhausts, etc. but get a little lost with springs, injectors, etc. Any suggestions are appreciated. GREAT SITE!

 

[ndurbin]

First, Welcome aboard



I believe in 97 all the trucks were at 215 hp. Guages are the first step if ya don't already have them. A stock auto well hold about 200-250hp. If your transmission's in good shape you can get by with just throwing a beefier TC and a vlave body in there. There are several plates to choose from, kinda depends on what your doing with the truck as to which is the best. A 3 or 4 GSK works well with most plates. I dont remember which ones it doesn't work well with (#4 maybe). The GSK allows the engine to rev to higher RPMS and doesn't cut the fuel back like the stock springs do. 370 injectors are a pretty good bang for the buck. Their injectors from the marine version of our engine. Don's Mach injectors are pretty good too, never run a set but heard alot of good things about them.



Nathan

 

[WDimig]

more power

the 97' auto has the 180 hp pump. ive done a #0plate, 370's and 3k gsk, and my truck runs like a spotted a*& primate. im planning on adding a htb2 turbo in the near future. with the above mods, you can easily kill the stock transmission. a #10 plate and 3k gsk will liven up the truck, yet be more forgiving for the transmission.



wes

 

[Joe G.]

If the truck is a CA version it is lower in power for both manual and auto transmissions. Check the data plate on the gear case in front of the injection pump. Note the CPL number. You may need that if you buy parts from Cummins.

 

[y-knot]

Glade to see that you have the bug. I would start with a general "Tune UP". Almost everyone forgets to adjust the valves, this is a great first step for any truck especially one with over 100,000 miles on it. Before you go do that, buy yourself 6 Felpro valve cover gaskets and have them on hand to replace the aged and old ones you have now. It is cheap insurance against future leaks, and if your engine is like most, it's a great way to stop those small leaks it has now. I am not sure if you just picked the truck up, or have had it for some time??? But go Thur the thing and replace all filters, what you are trying to establish is a bench mark for performance. The engine should be checked over, belts and pulleys replaced if bad and thermostats and hoses replaced along with a radiator flush and new coolant. Look over your throttle cable, they have a tendency to frey. You might want to check the timing, chances are it's never been checked. While you are at it, look over all the vacuum lines and make sure they are in good shape. Do you have a KDP problem, any leaks in the front timing cover? If it has not been fixed, This is the time. Once you are sure your stock engine is running at it's best, then is the time to consider more power.

As a start, I would consider a intake air system to improve breathing. The logical next step would be a new 4" exhaust system, and then look into a plate with a boost fooler. Good luck

 

[AMink]

Thanks for the tips. I've owned the truck since new. I just had the whole enchilada done this past summer... fluids, coolant, belt, etc. One question that I have about the exhaust--if the exhaust side of the turbo is only 3", how does a 4" exhaust make it breath better? It seems that the turbo would "bottleneck" the hot exhaust. Anyway, I will be looking to do the exhaust... all these folks with aftermarkets can't be wrong! I put a BHAF on today (replaced a K&N). SOTP seems the same, but it looks cooler! I will be putting a heat shield on tomorrow. I got some big rubber stoppers and slid them over the existing bolts to keep from poking holes where they shouldn't be. Also made a bracket w/a large strap clamp to keep the filter from bouncing around. Came out pretty good. You definately notice that it's not a stock part!!

 

[AMink]

Here are some pics of my first venture into BOMBing. I used 3/4" strap and a 6" hose clamp to hold the filter in place. It fits on two of the bolts originally holding the filter housing. I covered the bolts with rubber stoppers to prevent rubbing and hole poking. The heat shield is made from 22 gauge sheetmetal with a bracket going to the bolt on the clamp behind the turbo. We'll see how it works. The shield seems to keep the BHAF cooler than it was before.