2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Bent Axel Shafts - Front Diff?

[Joe Mc]

Took out both, removed joints and place them on two "V" blocks, rotated and measured with dial indicator. Here's what I got



R: high to low reading @ center 0. 018"



L: high to low reading @ center 0. 015"



They're within 0. 003" of each other - I doubt they're bent - probably what they were when it left the factory "in spec. "



What do you all think?



I put on new U-joints since the shafts were out and the clock reads 160k - cheap insurance.

 

[kelly4463]

Joe thanks for the help today on my gas tank good luck with your truck get it fixed before the 19th lol road trip!!!!!

 

[Joe Mc]

Thanks for allowing me the opportunity to help out, the relief it provided me from the things I'm going thru presently was very theraputic and calming more than I would have thought. And whether or not I get the front end resolved I'll be there right behind you on the Turnpike trip to the brawl - god willing that is. Thanks again.

 

[JoeBioDiesel]

Because the wheels are not supported by the axles, like the rear wheels are, that kind of runout is perfectly fine.

Joe

 

[Joe Mc]

Joe thanks - so there shouldn't be any kind of vibration relating to the miniscule runout from the front end?

 

[JoeBioDiesel]

I can't imagine that there would be. The weight is just not far enough off center to create a shake, at least the the rotational speeds we normally see. Some front wheel drive vehicles I've seen have axles that rotate over . 200" off center and don't have vibration problems. I think you'll be fine.

Joe

 

[Joe Mc]

JBD - thanks, so there's something else going on - probably that POS stock (3rd MOOG one) track bar been thru 2 since I leveled the front end . . . time to go to the 3rd gen or Thuren set up.

 

[Joe Mc]

OK here's the latest - Solid Steel 3rd gen adjustable & required mounting bracket, and Solid Steel steering box (sector shaft) brace kit. Steering is nice and tight, but still getting vibes.



Got some "in garage, on flat surface, out of the rain" time at kelly4463's work over the weekend, complemented by air tools. Was finally able to get up on 4 stands (my driveway is on a 3% grade), put in 4wd and run it up to vibrating speed.



A note: if you ever have to put on 4 stands and run up to speed - don't attempt to set the cruise control right Kelly . . :-laf. Since there's no load for the cruise to sense incline, decline or level surface - it just warps up to 85 and then back . . . :--)Man that was a gas, I'm looking under at the drive shaft and all of a sudden there's a puff of black smoke and whoooooo from the engine, then Kelly goes "OMG":--) and hits the brakes. I'm wondering WTH is going on Man that was funny. Oh, another thing, if you have to do this - don't hit the brakes to "slow" down, right Kelly :-laf as there's no weight of the truck to soften the abrupt stop the hubs take. Best thing to do when you want to slow down is let off go pedal and pop in "N", till everything comes to a stop.



Kelly's my brother from another mother, if he blew my truck up I'd have to tell Mom . . . I was laughing so hard at how scared he got with the cruise deal and then hitting the brakes. Dude, you should have seen your face:-laf "I love you Man!" You don't know how much I needed the laugh thanks for making my day.



Anyway, Kelly determined the L/F tire has a broken band. We took off all 4 tires and Centramatic wheel/hub balancers and there's still a tad of vibration in the back (2wd). Since I found (some months ago) the L/hub bearing nut was a 1/2 turn loose - I decided to throw another $125 at it and do L & R side new inner/outer bearings and races, change diff oil, new gaskets etc.



Still deciding on tires . . . really bumbed out about the Nittos not holding up - I rarely go off road and when I do in this heavy thing I'm very ginger and don't thrash it - I gotta get to work you know. But, I do recall sliding into and over a curb with the left front when it was really cold and the tires weren't warm last winter. So I guess I should blame myself. Anyway, looking at BFG's or Wranglers??? The decision is probably going to be the Wranglers as the BFGs are only "D" rated. They do have a nice tread design, but the Wranglers are probably quieter and rated "E" . . . decisions - decisions.

 

[RSimmons]

I am pretty sure you can get the BFG TAKO in D and E load ranges. I have a buddy who just put a set of Es on a Chevy 2500. He had to order them as none of the local shops kept them in stock in the higher load range.

 

[kelly4463]

Hay joe you learn something new every day lol

man it scared the crap out of me what the f**k was that lol i still think you should go with michelin you know how my truck rides